Hi there :) I'm a newbie, just bought a rev 3 turbo)need some advise on bhp mods

[chosenone]

I'm sure this is a very common subject haha...
Looking to achieve 300bhp relatively cheaply and safely if possible?

At the moment I have a apex induction kit, blitz boost control and aftermarket exhaust...

Is Going down the root of getting a decat, intercooler, maybe getting a decent exhaust and adjusting the boost the way to go?

[QUOC2008]

Sound you got the right idea maybe a 2ndhand ecu+remap and think the power will be right there

[Poker Face]

I'd get a decent intercooler first, I've got an aftermarket ecu bigger turbo and injectors but not forged engine and I was hitting knock at 16 psi. As Bob Hatton said to me I hope you have a decent ic well it turns out the eBay ones don't cut it.
I'm going to put a k type in the boost pipe flow and measure temps once I've done the mot.
Then hopefully I'll buy Martin F's ic off him and notice a difference.

It wouldn't be unreasonable on a rev3 to get 300. I only made 280 on 16 psi everything else was looking good but then hit det.

[chosenone]

Thanks yeah I'll try remapping it first, then getting a decent intercooler then

I have a blitz dual boost control, I've set it to 50.
I'm getting around 0.7 bar, is that safe haha ?

[thomp1983]

If you've still got the stock intercooler then sti
op running increased boost now it's a disaster waiting to happen.

For 300bhp id start with confirming all the basics, so full service, inspect the dizzy cap and rotor arm, check your ignition timing and do a compression test. Lastly popvthe inlet off the turbo and check the shaft for play.

After that first a decent boost gauge then a decent sidemount intercooler (with gts chris shroud), a decent decat if you've not got one (cheap ones can jam wastegate), the stock airbox would of been better for your power goals unless you build an enclosure to shield the cone filter from heat. after all that then setup the boost controller and you should be somewhere in the ballpark for your goal.

[chosenone]

Also is the standard factory setting for a rev 3 gts 13 psi ?

[Poker Face]

The MR2 ecu isn't mappable so I'd get a decent intercooler first then push the boost up a little to 17 psi around 1.2 bar. I'm not sure what stock level is.

I wouldn't get a mappable ems until you want a bigger turbo and injectors and then you need to consider going forged. Use the search function there are some good threads with a lot of info from people who know a he'll of a lot more than me. I did things are about face and it's going to cost me more than it would have if I'd done my research.

First of all I'd get it serviced and get it on a rolling road, then see what it's pushing out as stock.
What octane fuel are you using?

Sorry if this is a bit disjointed, I'm being distracted by something else. If I remember I'll edit this later.

[QUOC2008]

A good cheap option for future mods in minds in a gt4 charge cooler instead of the side mount intercooler then i
u dont lose ur aircon

[Peter Gidden]

I have a blitz dual boost control, I've set it to 50.
I'm getting around 0.7 bar, is that safe haha ?

Totally.

Stock boost is 0.8 bar, or 12psi.

Have you disabled the TVSV?

[chosenone]

Ok thanks guys now I have a better understanding on what to do next
That's quite high boost for standard, impressive.

I have no idea what tvsv is haha, I very new this.

[chosenone]

O and I use shell vpower.
Greddy intercooler looks good... Are they any other good quality intercooler you would recommend ?

[kev8611]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

T VSV is the factory boost controller so to speak,

Its a small blue solenoid valve that sits under the inlet manifold. Your wastegate actuator has two hoses on it, on from your turbo going in, and the other going out to the T VSV. If you have your own boost controller, unplug this and then cap the hose going into your T VSV from the actuator end.

Chances are it may have already been done by the previous owner if they fitted the boost controller

[chosenone]

Ok thanks a lot, I'll have a look

[archangel]

Like someone else mentioned I'd get it into an MR2 specialist to have them give it a check over to check for leaks and obvious tell tale signs of issues before straining it.
To get 300 assuming your engine, turbo, sensors, injectors, etc. are happy then aftermarket intercooler, boost controller to around 17-18psi (1.2 bar) (increase slowly and test thoroughly with hard pulls rather than go straight there and risk blowing stuff up), 1 grade colder spark plugs (grade 7 as stock is 6), would probably recommend retarding your timing to 9 deg btdc just to be on the safe side initially, and if this all appears to be happy make sure you get it on a dyno (one that can put a fan to the side mounted intercooler rather than just a big one at the front) to check the AFRs under boost.
It's important to take this gradually as every engine is different, especially at this age after who knows what kind of treatment the car and engine has had so suck it and see. But be mindful of engine safety as it's such a pain when something goes pop.

[kev8611]

Like someone else mentioned I'd get it into an MR2 specialist to have them give it a check over to check for leaks and obvious tell tale signs of issues before straining it.
To get 300 assuming your engine, turbo, sensors, injectors, etc. are happy then aftermarket intercooler, boost controller to around 17-18psi (1.2 bar) (increase slowly and test thoroughly with hard pulls rather than go straight there and risk blowing stuff up), 1 grade colder spark plugs (grade 7 as stock is 6), would probably recommend retarding your timing to 9 deg btdc just to be on the safe side initially, and if this all appears to be happy make sure you get it on a dyno (one that can put a fan to the side mounted intercooler rather than just a big one at the front) to check the AFRs under boost.
It's important to take this gradually as every engine is different, especially at this age after who knows what kind of treatment the car and engine has had so suck it and see. But be mindful of engine safety as it's such a pain when something goes pop.

This is a very good point, I never done this when getting my car dyno'd and regret it now.