[Mk2] [NA] Timing marks and ignition timing

[dubsport01]

Changed the cambelt and water pump on my mr2 yesterday. I have some queries about the timing marks. I wasn't sure about the the top timing marks so I had a look on here and found the walkthrough. Can some one confirm where the top timing mark on the cam shaft pulley should lineup to?


image by b690e2d7357a23091c55734745ac5435, on Flickr

I borrowed these pics from the walkthrough, I hope the guy doesn't mind. The red line I have added is on a pressed dent in the cover behind the pulley. This is where I timed mine up to, not the yellow mark shown. Is this correct?


Also I have noticed there is a difference between the tdc marks on the two crankshaft pulleys. When I bring in round to 0 on the timing cover then remove the pulley and timing cover I find my timing mark to be two teeth away from the one on the block, see photo.


image by b690e2d7357a23091c55734745ac5435, on Flickr

The red line shows where the mark lines up with if I set it to 0 on the bottom timing cover. Which mark should it be timed to?


I have it timed to the red lines drawn in the photos at the minute but it feels a bit flat and my Acis(I think that what's it's called) doesn't kick in anymore, could this be timing related? I haven't checked the vac pipes yet mind.

Also I cannot get the ignition timing set to 10 degrees. I can only get it to about 5 degrees and that is with the dizzy full anti clockwise. Does that indicate timing out?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[Peter Gidden]

Stick the bottom cover on and use TDC mark on the cover to align with the pulley mark, viewed at an angle from the engine lid hinge.

Use either the indents in the backplate for the top marks, or remove cam cover and use the factory marks in the cam bearing caps which you may find easier.

If you can't set ignition timing, chances are your inlet cam is a tooth out.

Advice - Always make your own marks with Tippex or similar before removeing belt.

Advice2 - If you buy an OEM belt it comes with printed lines to align everything for you.

[dubsport01]

Thanks peter.

I normally do mark them with tippex but this one was out of timing when I popped the covers off going by the indents. So I decided just to use them. It was only when i seen that walkthrough and the guys yellow marks I got a bit confused as to which were correct.

Also forgot to mention in the first post. When I pulled the tensioner off one of the bolts came out with the threads from the block still attached. Not good. I currently have it thread locked back in but I know it's not ideal. Any way you can think of to sort this out with dropping the engine out to helicoil?

Is the any oil or water galleys close to the bolt locations for the tensioner, if I was drill and tap to bigger size?