Quaigy's mod thread

[Quaigy]

Hey folk,

I'm from the Glasgow area and I bought my 1989 Mk1 Mr2 back in august but just got it on the rad last week over that time I refurbed the brakes, serviced her and had a crap load of welding done. But she's on the road now and all I need to do now is fix leaks in the roof and change the coolant. Jimi has been a good help on a few issues I've had.

I'm planning on heading to Japfest 2 to meet up with you guys as I've been to the normal Japfest twice with the Celica-club guys and it was pretty good.

I reckon I'll be calling on your expertise at some point


















- Quaigy

[0233winch]

15 and nice to meet you!

[munter]

Hey - good to have you here.

I'm across the country from you in Dundee. Not too many MK1s in Scotland now it seems.

Hopefully see you at one of the various meets.
P

[Quaigy]

Thanx, theres an Edinburgh meet coming up isn't there? well I'll see if I can make it along for that.

[Quaigy]

Just installed a thin sub... sounding good!

It's a sony head, cheap newish dash speakers and a Blaupunkt XLF 200 A sub.

So that's mod number 2 (1st was the Raybrigg headlights with osram nightbreakers :B )

[PeteP]

Well done on the restore. What sort of condition was it in before you started?

I'm up in Aberdeen so (provisionally) claim Most Northerly Two. There's one other that I know of but I think it's off the road.

Are the roof leaks in a sunroof or t-bar? I got the eccentric lock guides for my t-bar and haven't seen any signs of leaks in the week since fitting them - and we've definitely had rain. My first fix was to gently prise the seal out of the groove so that it gets squashed more when the glass is put in. It seemed to work too.

[MR2Kyle]

Alrighty Need to find out the amount of scottish members here!!! Went to crails banzai fest hoping to see a mk1.5 or something but there was no show...we need to get a group together and get some runs on the go!!

[oukie]

Hello I'm in Scotland

Chris

[Quaigy]

The car was off the road sitting in a heated garage for 3 years before I bought it in August. The welding was done to 2 of the Dorian holes, front crossmember/bracket, inner rear left triangle bit and new right rear triangle panel. Paint work is in good nick and after replacing battery, recon alternator, brake lines, hoses, seals &pins +new tyres + service she's running pretty good!

First time owning a Mr2 and so far so good.

The leak seems to be coming from water passing off the roof channel into the area between the roof and the front and back. Pillar sections (just outside of the locking pins) I've put the eccentric guides in but they don't seem to be helping in that area. I'm going to do as you have sugested and take the seals off to "plump" them up a bit.
I had a mini waterfall in the passenger seat when I braked yesterday!

I'm up for meets but I just need about a weeks notice

[Quaigy]

Oh the cars done 130000 and the engines done about 40000.

[PeteP]

I've read about plenty of people with leaks from around the top of the pillar and also from around the windscreen. Of course, where the water shows up inside doesn't automatically give any clue as to where it got in. The top of the windscreen can leak and the water can make it into the T-bar sunroof section or go part way down the pillar and sneak in just about 3/4 of the way down.

My own door seals look like they've been melted in an attempt to stop a leak but since I fiddled with the T-bar seals I haven't seen any water dripping down the side windows. Go figure.



Just to be perfectly clear: I am no expert or even a long term owner, I just like to share my own experience and information I have read.

[munter]

I had the same leaking t-bar as most people. The only solution I found was to buy new seals from the US and do a complete refurb of the t-bar roof. It's a big job and even then all the work was let down because the rubber seals on my roof panels were way best their best. Despite all that effort I still ended up having to put black silicone on the roof panels!!

The good news is that the car is now water tight so you can fix this, it just takes time to cover all the bases.

Here's the link to my thread with the roof refurb details:

Munters Roof refurb

[Retro_Boy_G]

Another Glasgow dude here! Welcome to the forum dude

[Quaigy]

Thanx for the advice, I'll keep pottering away and tinkering with the seals to see if I can fix it.

On another note I've had the car stalling when stopping at traffic lights even when the clutch is pushed down (I've read it could be electrical/air lock in coolant/Waxstst) but it's only happened on occasion so I'll change the coolant and electrical parts first since they need doing anyway.

[Quaigy]

Ok new problem the car dropped at least one cylinder as I was driving back from the shops (that was an interesting drive with lots of stalling) so pulled the plugs and the two middle ones were very black.

Middle left - the well was dry and the plug had tons of carbon on it.
Middle right - the well had oil in it and the plug had tons of carbon on it.

Far Left and right plugs looked fine although there was a little oil in the far right well.

I had a similar problem on my Celica and I fixed it by replacing the rocker cover gasket (and cleaning the inside of the rocker). Does this sound like the same problem?

I checked the coolant reservoir + oil filler cap and I don't see any scum build up.

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On another subject I've found where the water is coming into the passenger side T-bar. It's gathering under the front roof seal (above the windscreen) and pouring through the back of the plastic cover for the socket for the locating pin of the roof.

[bmwbill]

Well done on the restore. What sort of condition was it in before you started?

I'm up in Aberdeen so (provisionally) claim Most Northerly Two. There's one other that I know of but I think it's off the road.

Are the roof leaks in a sunroof or t-bar? I got the eccentric lock guides for my t-bar and haven't seen any signs of leaks in the week since fitting them - and we've definitely had rain. My first fix was to gently prise the seal out of the groove so that it gets squashed more when the glass is put in. It seemed to work too.

Another mk1 owner here in Aberdeen so hello my one is not off the road been a while since I posted on here

[jimi]

Oil in the plug wells is probably the cam cover gaskets (no rockers on a MK1 )
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-MR2-CO ... 19a438e6f7
other than that it sounds like time for a new set of plugs BCPR6EY-11 you'll get at set for well under a tenner from the bay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NGK-Spark-Plu ... 19cca08526

[Quaigy]

Sounds about right Jimi, I've ordered the gaskets and picking up plugs too, thanx for the links.

[Quaigy]

Hey folk I have put on new dizzy cap (old one only had 2 poles!) leads and plugs and new cam cover gaskets. The car is now firing on 4 cylinders but sounds pretty rough. Also when the car is warm and the revs have dropped to about 900rpm I have put my foot on the accelerator for a bit and when I take my foot off the revs drop to about 300 rpm, rise to 500 rpm then the car slowly dies.

Is this to do with timing? also I need to put my foot on the accelerator to start the car.

[jimi]

No, not timing, it sounds very much to do with the AAV.
This is the sort of scenario that happens:-
the AAV starts to stick and doesn't close properly, consequently the hot idle is too high, someone then adjusts the hot idle (using the idle screw) to lower it a bit.
Later the AAV sticks closed and consequently the warm idle is to low and you get the scenario you described, also means you need to give a bit of throttle to start.
Try adjusting the idle screw to raise the idle to around 800/900 rpm, that will work for a while until the AAV decides to open and not close properly, then your idle will be too high. The only real cure is to replace the AAV (expensive) or fit one of Paul Woods manual choke kits (that would be my choice.

Of course I could be totally wrong about this and blethering a load of poo