


I have no issues creating boost, and the car seems to run fine.

Moderators: IMOC Moderators, IMOC Committee Members
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
Shmed wrote:
The ssqv literally blows like a hair dryer on idle, is it not meant to?
bobhatton wrote:At low speed below boost the engine is sucking so how can you get any air blowing out of the bov?
dazzz wrote:I'm no expert but
bobhatton wrote:At low speed below boost the engine is sucking so how can you get any air blowing out of the bov?
ashman wrote:Shmed wrote:
The ssqv literally blows like a hair dryer on idle, is it not meant to?
That's not right mate![]()
Have you had your car mapped yet?
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
2mad wrote:I've got a hks bov and its closed at ide, it may have a weak spring![]()
.
![]()
It should still be usable though because of the way its designed.
Soon as the cars on boost it will force the bov shut.
bobhatton wrote:At low speed below boost the engine is sucking so how can you get any air blowing out of the bov?
The turbine is still turning so as a result the turbos blowing, even at idle.
Kev.
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
Shmed wrote:2mad wrote:I've got a hks bov and its closed at ide, it may have a weak spring![]()
.
![]()
It should still be usable though because of the way its designed.
Soon as the cars on boost it will force the bov shut.
bobhatton wrote:At low speed below boost the engine is sucking so how can you get any air blowing out of the bov?
The turbine is still turning so as a result the turbos blowing, even at idle.
Kev.
Didn't see your post, but I think that makes sense.The turbo wheel will still spin with the exhaust gas so would still create some
'boost' through the hot pipe.
Does the spring on the hks hold the bov open? Then boost pushes it shut and the spring pushes it open again when there is no boost?
Main thing I thought was a problem was the heat it is pushing into the engine bay though, so would probably prefer it to be fixed.
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
1.) The blow-off valve should never make any sound while accelerating.
The only time it should ever be audible is when it's activated by throttle lifts.
There are some cars that will experience a vacuum/pressure/vacuum/pressure change in the manifold under part-throttle lifts.
This rapid positive to negative pressure change can cause the valve to open and closed repeatedly, giving you this
"fluttering" sound that you described.
2.) Yes, all of the Super Sequential Blow-Off Valves are universal, and all of our vehicle specific kits use the same valve.
3.) If you are recirculation the valve on your EVO and are still experience
"stumbling" problems, I would check the installation.
Make sure the rubber O-ring is in good condition and is seated properly.
The second thing to check is the C-clip
(expansion ring).
The C-clip has a top and bottom to it.
If you look closely one side has a flat surface, and the other side has a round surface, be sure that the flat side goes towards the flange
(O-ring side) and the round side towards the valve.
You will need C-clip pliers
(expansion ring pliers) to do this.
4.) Do not touch the nut on the back of the valve
!
(I wish we never put that on there
!
) Adjusting that nut does NOT change the opening rate, efficiency or timing of the valve.
HKS valves are
"pull-type" valves, meaning they have to
"pull" open against the boost for them to open.
The more boost you run, the more the boost pushes them closed.
Some vehicles have more vacuum than others.
If high enough, it is possible for a vehicle's vacuum at idle to accidentally pull the valve open, causing a vacuum leak.
It is for this reason that HKS employees an adjustment nut on the back of the valve to allow the spring tension to be adjusted, ensuring that the valve is closed and not leaking while the vehicle is idling.
If you have played with this nut, I would suggest getting it back to the middle adjusting point while being VERY careful NOT to let the nut fall out, or turn it too tight as to puncture a hole in the blow
-off valve diaphragm.
As long as it's not leaking at idle, your fine.
5.) To test your blow-off valve, start the car, let it idle, and open the hood.
While looking at the valve, rev the car quickly once and stop.
Although no boost is ever generated at idle, this throttle on-off sequence should be enough to engage the blow-off valve, and you should be able to se the valve actually open and then close.
If it does not do this, check all that I have mentioned above.
If you are still in need of assistance, please feel free to contact us.
Thanks
Ryan Bates
Sales& Tech
HKS U.S.A., Inc.
(310) 491-3307
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
Shmed wrote:Just read this which suggests I might be able to adjust it to stop the vac opening the bov.![]()
1.) The blow-off valve should never make any sound while accelerating.
The only time it should ever be audible is when it's activated by throttle lifts.
There are some cars that will experience a vacuum/pressure/vacuum/pressure change in the manifold under part-throttle lifts.
This rapid positive to negative pressure change can cause the valve to open and closed repeatedly, giving you this
"fluttering" sound that you described.
2.) Yes, all of the Super Sequential Blow-Off Valves are universal, and all of our vehicle specific kits use the same valve.
3.) If you are recirculation the valve on your EVO and are still experience
"stumbling" problems, I would check the installation.
Make sure the rubber O-ring is in good condition and is seated properly.
The second thing to check is the C-clip
(expansion ring).
The C-clip has a top and bottom to it.
If you look closely one side has a flat surface, and the other side has a round surface, be sure that the flat side goes towards the flange
(O-ring side) and the round side towards the valve.
You will need C-clip pliers
(expansion ring pliers) to do this.
4.) Do not touch the nut on the back of the valve
!
(I wish we never put that on there
!
) Adjusting that nut does NOT change the opening rate, efficiency or timing of the valve.
HKS valves are
"pull-type" valves, meaning they have to
"pull" open against the boost for them to open.
The more boost you run, the more the boost pushes them closed.
Some vehicles have more vacuum than others.
If high enough, it is possible for a vehicle's vacuum at idle to accidentally pull the valve open, causing a vacuum leak.
It is for this reason that HKS employees an adjustment nut on the back of the valve to allow the spring tension to be adjusted, ensuring that the valve is closed and not leaking while the vehicle is idling.
If you have played with this nut, I would suggest getting it back to the middle adjusting point while being VERY careful NOT to let the nut fall out, or turn it too tight as to puncture a hole in the blow
-off valve diaphragm.
As long as it's not leaking at idle, your fine.
5.) To test your blow-off valve, start the car, let it idle, and open the hood.
While looking at the valve, rev the car quickly once and stop.
Although no boost is ever generated at idle, this throttle on-off sequence should be enough to engage the blow-off valve, and you should be able to se the valve actually open and then close.
If it does not do this, check all that I have mentioned above.
If you are still in need of assistance, please feel free to contact us.
Thanks
Ryan Bates
Sales& Tech
HKS U.S.A., Inc.
(310) 491-3307
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
Al-sw20 wrote:Just take off the BOV and improve response
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
The turbine is still turning so as a result the turbos blowing, even at idle.![]()
Kev.