Keyless entry with Window close module Driver Window Wiring help

[shoa]

I bought and installed the keyless entry works fine on my MR2 Mk1b.
I added the window closure module and the passenger window goes up fine on lock but the drivers does not go up.

I am guessing that the drivers side has a window module, while the passengers does not, so how to bypass the module on the drivers side and make the window go up with the window closure module?
Anyone know which wire is the up one for the motor ?

I have the Green with Yellow stripe for drivers window up
and the Red with Blue stripe passenger up at the master switch at the moment.

I think the motor wires are Red and Green.
Or can it be done from the master switch, I did notice that the drivers window does go up if the ignition is on.

Any help would be great.
thanks

[jimi]

Have a read of these 2 articles, they may help you
CLICKY and CLICKY2

[shoa]

Thanks

I did google and read your article about the auto up mod you done not sure how it would help me.
Or is it D5 i should be looking at ?


I have also found the schematic for the window relay in the mr2 mk2 95 version i do not know why they put it there for as a demo illustration.

Cannot add images yet .

I did try and put 12v to the red wire of the motor on the drivers side with my probe but it did not go up, which I thought was strange as I am sure when it was out I did test it with the probe to make sure it worked when changing the gear cog last year.

Will have another look at it again today see if I can figure a way around it so annoying a simple thing as well might handy if you forget to put the windows up at night and can click button and know they are up.

[shoa]

OK I have found the bridge thats needed to make the window go up when the ignition is off, but I do not know what it will do with the ignition on or when trying to open the window.

If I bridge green on pin 3 and black & white on pin 4 on plug b and put power to red I think it goes up.

But if those 2 are bridged constantly then how woulld close work, or can I get some sort or relay that will open and close on the ignition on/off ?

[jimi]

MK2 window relay is different to the MK1 (it's built into the master switch on the MK2) MK1 relay is in the bottom LHS of the drivers door.
I fitted a window closure module years ago, but can't remember how I wired it up, I'll have a look through my notes, I should have a diagram of how I did it somewhere.

[shoa]

Thats great I know they are differant on the mk2 but the actual pic for the demo image before the electrical system itself is usefull for power relay I am sure it works the same way.
Only noticed because I know the diagram off by heart now with all the checking and double checking tripple checking.

Should have taken a pen and pad with me to write down the pins and the colours.
But I just put the wire in now and press the probe on the red or green to see which makes it go up only planning on doing it once.

Much appreciated for the help though this one has me stumpt really as I am no auto electrician or eletronics tech.

[jimi]

The closure module needs to have a supply from a permanently live source (not the Door Pwr fuse as that is ignition controlled.

Colours on both motors are the same
+ve to Red, -ve to green [on the motor] = window Up
+ve to Green, -ve to Red [on the motor] = window Down

The module I used is marked like this (number is on the module plug and colour is the module wire)
1-Blue- Door 2 (up +ve for switch)
2-Green- Door 2 (up +ve to motor)
3-Green/Yellow- Door 1 (up +ve to motor)
4-Red- Bat (+12v)
5-White-Door Lock (+ve)
6-Yellow-White- Door 1 (up +ve for switch)
7-Orange-ACC(+12v)
8-Black-Ground

I installed the module in the drivers door and all the wiring was done in the door.
It was wired to my car like this (number corresponds to module, colour is car wiring.
1-Red/blue (from master switch)
2-Red/blue (to passengers motor via passengers switch)
3-Red (to the drivers motor)
4- +12v from permanent live (had to run this wire from the fusebox in drivers foot well
5-Black (from the door lock solenoid in the drivers door this allows the module to activate when I lock the doors with the alarm key fob or lock the doors with the key)
6-Red (from the Power Window relay for drivers window)
7-Blue (from the Power window relay)
8-White/black (from Power window relay

Whether the addition of the diodes for the drivers auto-up mod has an influence on the way this operates, I don't know, I'd done the auto-up mod before I added the closure module.

[jimi]

Or is it D5 i should be looking at ?

where/what is D5 ?

[shoa]

I was looking at the pictures of jimi's mod D for wire socket type and 5 the wire number.

Any how I think D5 was way wrong looking at it again.

But I do not know how you got (3-Red (to the drivers motor)) as I only have 1,2 for the window switch drivers side (you have the fourth on wire 6 strange jump)

Had to cut wire G/Y & R/L = one side switch one side motor
module wire number = to car part
module wire colour = to car colour wire

1 to driver switch (green/white) to (Green/Yellow)
2 to driver motor (green) to (Greem/Yellow)
3 passenger switch (blue/white) to (Red/Blue)
4 passenger motor (blue) to (Red/Blue)
5 to lock module (white) to (pink on my lock module)
6 to battery - (black) to (white/black)
7 to ACC + (brown) NOT connected
8 battery + (red) to (fat white ) bridged from someone elses wire

So I have no extra wire on 3 like you do
3-Red (to the drivers motor)

But you have your ACC connected to the relay so will give that ago see what it does

Thanks so much for your help.

Will try and work off your and make a little map out to match mine a little more so I can understand both your menu styles

[jimi]

1 & 2 are wrong
1 on yours = 6 on mine, should be red from the window relay
2 on yours = 3 on mine, should be red to the drivers motor
Both the Reds are the same wire (cut and connected to the module)

Also on yours you have 6 marked as to battery, white black, that's -ve or ground
D5 is pin 5 on the plug for the window relay.

[shoa]

It looks like the only differances are

I should use Red on relay instead of Green/Yellow on dirvers switch.
(Would this not make it the same as putting 12v in the red ?
Or does the acc do something trigger wise ?
do you have crusie control on yours ?)
My ACC to the Blue on relay.

I have mine set on negative trigger is that right?
It seems to work for passenger so I guess it is.

[shoa]

Thanks will go out and give that a try and fingers crossed.
just looked out side p*ssing with rain been sunny all day.

Also on yours you have 6 marked as to battery, white black, that's -ve or ground

Is White/Black not the same as battery - then ?

[shoa]

Well the drivers window goes up now
Thank you very much for your help

But the fuse blew

I had to use a make shift one till I go get one, it only had a 15 amp fuse in the module, shouldn't it be 30amp for the windows like the toyota ones ?

[jimi]

glad it's working

IIRC the ACC input stops the module working while the ignition is on.

Also on yours you have 6 marked as to battery, white black, that's -ve or ground

Is White/Black not the same as battery - then ?

Yes it is, I just mentioned it for info, most Toyota's use White/black as -ve/ground
15A fuse should be OK (it's what I used to supply my module) Do both the windows close at the same time or does one close then the other ? If it's both simultaneously then you may need a bigger fuse, try 20A before trying 30A.
Cruise was never offered as an option on UK cars, I only know of 1 UK car with Cruise and that was retrofitted.

[shoa]

One closes then the other after 10 seconds.

I thought this was strange that the fuse blew because it was doing its job fine on the passenger window before the wire swap.

Will get a couple of fuses just incase, but cant see why it would suddenly blow the fuse now, soldered the joints so they are good.

Will solder the ACC on then when I get a chance rain started just as I finished.

Thanks again.

[ulysess1966]

Not sure if this helps, but I did Jimi's mod on the passenger door and added a second control relay into the door. After that I wired up a cheap alarm I got on eBay that had a closure output. The output pulled to GND so I added a transistor circuit so it would output +12V and 2 diodes so this output could be wired directly to the 2 'UP' connections on the driver's door switch. It works a treat, but I had to re-wire the power circuit for the windows so it is permanently connected to 12 volts. This hasn't had any adverse effects on battery drain or anything else.

What I did discover though was that the fuse will eventually blow if you overdrive the window motors once they are fully up or down. If you haven't got a second control module in play, I'd reckon you'd be risking blowing the fuse if the closure module is driving the passenger door for more that a few seconds after it is closed.

[elbon50]

Not sure if this helps, but I did Jimi's mod on the passenger door and added a second control relay into the door. After that I wired up a cheap alarm I got on eBay that had a closure output. The output pulled to GND so I added a transistor circuit so it would output +12V and 2 diodes so this output could be wired directly to the 2 'UP' connections on the driver's door switch. It works a treat, but I had to re-wire the power circuit for the windows so it is permanently connected to 12 volts. This hasn't had any adverse effects on battery drain or anything else

Could you publish your circuit diags on here please Ulysess ?

My car has a Scorpion alarm on it, fitted by a previous owner. It has an auto window close feature which is really nice. The alarm was an absolute PIA though. It went faulty, had to be repaired & even then would sound off without good reason, upsetting members of the public. I havn't used the thing for many years but it's still on the car. Will have a little play

Peter

[shoa]

Yes mine seems to be blowing the fuse because of over loading the window once its up.

So I guess willl have to unsolder it again and think of the next plan to get it working right.



Very Annoying.

Anyone have a better idea on how to do this with a resistor maybe ?

Thanks for any ideas.

I do remember them saying that there is a safe and unsafe mode but I cannot find the switch like it says on the destructions.
Maybe they have hidden it inside the unit will take it apart and see, it might do the trick as it might not be sensitive enough to stop the window.

[shoa]

OK problem solved just turned the sensitivity right down and now the fuse does not blow on driver up.

The sensitivity switch is inside the module so have to unscrew it to see it, no hole from the outside to turn it.

Thanks for all your help & idea's guy much appreciated.

Now on to the spraying part of it will be a new thread coming soon.

[jimi]

These modules normally monitor the current on the motor, when it increases as the motor stalls (fully up or down) it cuts the power to that motor (the Toyota window relay does the same thing) as you discovered some of them have adjustable sensitivity, it's really meant as as safety feature so that it will stop the window if anything (your body parts ) obstruct the window it stops, but it also doubles up as a method of adjusting the module to suit different motors. Well done for figuring it out

Have you flattened your battery playing with it yet ? I nearly did when I first installed it