Longer wheel studs

[Maverick9999]

Hi there,

I've now fitted my new rims (Kei force 10 17's) which are et42 and even without spacers, the wheel bolts are only engaged for about 10mm of the stud. Seeing as I'm thinking of getting 15mm spacers to get the rears flush with the upper arch, I am thinking of getting longer studs.

From the lay out diagrams of how the studs are located in the hub, I presume I just unbolt the caliper, pull the disc rotor out and then hammer the studs out from the front so they come out the back of the hub, with the refitting being the opposite of the disassembly?

Will I need any special tools? Also, has anyone got recommendations on what studs to use to get about 25mm of extra length studs, perhaps an ebay page etc... of products they have bought and have done the job well?

Thanks in advance...

[jasongtr]

smack them out with a hammer, and use a wheel nut to pull the new ones home, might not even need to remove the disc to do it.

some spacers (certainly 20mm+) will come with the longer studs if they are that design, or the other design will bolt to the std hub studs and have their own studs to bolt the wheel to.

[Maverick9999]

Ah, thanks Jason. So there's enough space on the back of the hub for the studs to be banged out without the hub itself having to come out?

Do you have any experience of a particular brand model for studs / spacers with extension? Am nervous about buying dud ones and them shearing off whilst pottering down the motorway :$

[jasongtr]

no mate never had any, but if you do get the bolt on ones i personally wouldnt get cheap ones, the ones with longer studs i doubt it matters much

[JeffD]

How its done....

With disc and caliper removed rotate the hub until the gap is in line with the back of the stud. Use an old wheel nut on the stud so it doesnt get damaged.



a few firm knocks with a lump hammer should have it free.



To refit the new stud use the wheel nut again to draw the stud fully onto the hub so theres no gap between the lip on the stud and the hub.

[RyanRs]

After searching for hours all across all the mr2 forums, i find that unless you can hunt down the suppliers of Doorman wheel studs (impossible) then you will have to settle for these..

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT

poss slightly too long, but it seems to be the only option there is! you can always cut them down slightly.

[RST]

I just got longer studs from the same place I got my spacers from -they knew the length I needed with the size of spacers I ordered.

Don't have the details any more as not got the car but I'm pretty sure I got my spacers and studs from...

http://www.wheels.uk.com/acatalog/wheel-spacers.html

[Maverick9999]

Thanks to everyone for this info, for the pics and the links. IMOCUK members help me out again!

@RyanRs , there are exactly the ones I've been looking at, only concern is whether the splines are too long, I've messaged the seller to confirm...

[RST]

Off the top of my head from when i did mine:


Use a 2lb mash hammer or "lump" hammer to knock the old studs out -much safer than whacking them with any old hammer and more effective
Wear a dusk mask and goggles -funny how sparks and odd bits of rust / dust travel in every way towards you
You might find you have to tickle the new studs with a file -the ones I got were zinc plated and the thickness of the plating means they were a pain in the ass to get in. You just need to tickle the splines on them with a file (I used a bench grinder) to take the high spots off them -NO MORE then they pull in just fins as per Jeff's How To. Make sure you have plenty of peny washers from BnQ. Easy job -didn't take long at all.

[JeffD]

Just for comparison if your going 20mm+ then switch to spacers with their own studs. They bolt to the hubs as if you were fitting a wheel and they contain their own set of studs which your wheels bolt to.




To determine size needed fit your desired wheel (if your able) to your hub then place a straight edge right across the wheel up to the inside of the wheel arch at the top then measure the distance to the inside edge of the arch - this should give you the width of spacer.

[Maverick9999]

Thanks RST, are the penny washers to go in between the stud head and the hub's back face?

Thanks for the pics JeffD, again very helpful, where did you get those units? Might consider them for the rear and get longer bolts + spacers for the fronts...

[RST]

I packed behind a scrap wheel nut with penny washers -there's a fair bit of force required to pull the new studs through. If you use normal wheel nuts then they'll bottom out before you pull them through anyway -hence needing the penny washers. The washers will deform -well did in my case anyway by the time you pull them through. I didn't have any open ended wheel nuts to do it with at the time.

Just remember spacers are supposed to be sold as total units so a 20mm spacer kit =10mm per side and a 40mm kit should be = 20mm per side -just check that when you buy! Never order anything on-line before phoning up first. The link I posted before had reaonable priced ones and reaonable delivery. For deeper stuff e.g 30-40mm then the "adapters" which jeff posted above are a much better / easier bet than replacing the wheel studs.

[Maverick9999]

Cheers guys, will keep all the info in mind when I come to doing mine..

[rowey200]

This is a job I need to do shortly, thanks for the how-to

[OwenK]

On a related note does anybody know the length of the studs past the disc? I'm just worried about needing shorter studs for my bolt on spacers so the studs don't foul on the wheels but don't have a spare hour to go and measure at the mo.

[Maverick9999]

Hi again, have now got round to doing the replacement and everything's gone well apart from installing the new studs. As per what RST said, the splines on the one's I bought from the ebay link above seem to be deeper than the ones on the stud that have just come out. I tried to file them down but looks like I need to take them into work to get them done. The length of the splines is about twice the length of the original ones too and I was wondering whether I need to file down the length of the spline to the stud diameter and then grind down the top of the splines themselves, is it just a few seconds on the bench grinder? Going to experiment with doing just the one for now.

Also, any tips on how to hold the hub still whilst you turn the nuts to pull the studs in? Best I've found is to jam a rod between the other two bolts straight to the floor to react against...

[SFLee]

if i remember correctly, you just tighten it with a wheel nut
the spindle should press into place so it will not free spin as you tighten it

[Maverick9999]

How did you manage to hold the hub still whilst trying to tighten up the wheel nut? It seems to require a lot of force to pull the stud through...

Thinking of taking it to work and asking them to cut a slight chamfer on the end of the splines to help easy the splines into the existing holes... any other tips would be highly recommended...

[JeffD]

Are you sure your using the right sized stud? The solines shouldnt need trimming/filing etc.

I just used a socket extension bar or piece of wood to pass through the studs to keep the disc hub from rotating. Doesnt sound right having to use an enormous amount of force. Try putting one of your originals back in to get an idea how easy/hard it should be

[Maverick9999]

Got some help from a house mate tonight and use a long bar to prop the hub up against the road to stop it turning. Use a large torque wrench and hey presto they pulled in fine with no problems. As recommended, a large spacer between the two faces is ideal, with a bit of grease to make sure it come off.

One side done now, road tested fine, no wobbling, still tight after road run! Think I was just being overly cautious with the torque and the fact that I couldnt hold the hub and tighten the bolt at the same time! They're apparrently made of high tensile steel so lets hope they hold



Thanks everyone for all the advice, hope it helps others with the same question!

p.s. I'd recommend doing these one at a time rather than taking all of them out at once the remaining studs will help to stick a bar against them and the ground, as jeffD says, makes it a load easier!