This is the 3rd time Ive wrote this
so excuse my to the point manner.

The engine does sound like a forged engine, are you sure its not a 400 bhp in disguise

?!

Joke aside the head does sound a little noisy but not excessive
likely to be 2 or 3 shims slightly out of tolerance
.

theyre not really a quiet engine to start off with, you want to hear my M5 in the morning, massey ferguson springs to mind and thats all head noise through the vanos

/ valve gear.

Even my MR2 doesn't sound particularly sweet and I've only just checked the clearances this year.

.

.

but mine has 10.4mm lift cams in.

.

.

Ive got a love/hate passion with CT-series turbos.

.

I even had one of mine with an RS500 compressor fitted rebuilt 4 times to resolve a small bellowing of smoke issue that would emerge occasionally and use of oil
it seems some of the bearing housings have become porous over time

.

.

never resolved that issue.

.

put it in the bin after spending

£1800 on it

!!

With your head
generally the heads start to build up a little carbon around the valve seats which effectively increased the clearances over time.

When I build 3SGTEs, the exhaust side is always out to start with, labour intensive, a lapping and reshimming exercise will rectify it.

In other cases, an engine that has ran dry can seriously damage components

the head has no fail safe shell bearings to rely on and just damages the head.

What this then causes is an increased area of float in the rotational area which only increases the clearance again.

.

giving a tappetty head
I know because my oil feed cracked years on my turbo, threw all the oil out and left me on the side of the road
I thought Id got away with a simple oil feed
fired my engine up.

.

seemed alright
as it got upto working temperature
the head was making a prominent tapping noise and sounded like a diesel

!! Bawls

!!

My concern with your engine is the oil consumption

?! An engine with 150K miles wouldnt really go through a litre of oil on the dipstick in 30 miles if compression is good, this will point at the turbo normally.

Youve not let it run dry have you

?! it would cause these problems with the head and turbo blowing smoke

( oil starved

)

.

.

they can all be fixed, but will costs a couple of quid.

Im sure youll come to an amicable agreement with GTSChris
Almost biased comments,

Ive dealt with him/them many times with engines, gearboxes, looms, turbos, body panels etc
When an engine became available, he even held me back 3 weeks as he hadnt tested it which was fine by me.

Anything that was noisy and a smoker was simply stuck in the bin, Chris knows the downstream issues that occur selling a faulty item.

.

especially an engine with other 3rd parties being involved in the replacement.

If you were a bit closer, I could have had a look for you and rectified it, but check again with options with Chriss team.

Block comments

> Pick of the draw.

.

all blocks are thin between no.2 and no.3 cylinders.

.

depending on the original casting

.

.

Ive brought a couple to work and had them NDTd

/ thickness checked
wall thicknesses are normally 3.8/4mm around no.2 and 3
the rest are 6.8/7mm which is why if the block cracks, itll mostly always crack at the thinnest points.

Think of those that have bored them even more

!! Possible defects in the cast that can cause premature cracking, Ive cracked 3 blocks now, but have gone down the sleeved liner
which is holding up at the moment