[Mk2] [Turbo] Spluttering in the morning then clears up? Any ideas?

[toxo]

MAP Sensor.
This is the primary sensor responsible for fuelling in a Rev3.
It can be found on the rear of the engine bay, drivers side next to the "Check Connector". It has a Purple sticker.
It's very popular for people to Spur into the hose for Boost Gauges or sensors for Boost Controllers...
Potentially this is a bad thing to do! as any leak in the pipe would act like a bleed-valve on the sensor causing you to under fuel. Check the hose is direct (via the plastic filter) and intact. There are other places to get a pressure pipe from if you need it for aftermarket things.

Paul, you're a genius. I've been chasing this problem for over a year on my car. Plumbing the MAP sensor directly into the manifold (via the filter that's screwed into the manifold tiself) and taking my boost gauge feed from the FPR instead has cured my 2500rpm stutter and the butt dyno is telling me my missing horses are back!

[paul port]

There is a Bolt on the end face of the Plenum pointing towards the nearside (airbox side)

The Thread just so happens to be 1/8NPT
You can easily purchase industrial air pipe fittings (for ~3mm air pipe) from the likes of RS - and get your perfect boost gauge feed from here.

EG
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... &R=2993960
works with 4mm OD airline pipe - perfect for boost gauges

[toxo]

Yeah, I've got a few bits like that from a spare inlet manifold, I removed all the fittings from it. I'll mess about a bit and see what I can come up with.

[Bone]

What does the filter look like? Not sure if ive got one. I've got a boost gauge and a boost sensor tee'd off the map sensor pipe! I will get the feed from else where now.

I think I've fixed my problem but I need to use the car for a few more days to be sure. It was the plug that goes on the coolant temp sensor, real loose connection.

[toxo]

It's just the bit that sticks out of the inlet manifold. I'm not sure it's a filter at all to be honest, but the EPC says it is.

[Bone]

Cool cheers mate.

[Bone]

Right Paul, I've sorted the map sensor connection, removed and cleaned the earth on the inlet manifold and there are no error codes. Still got the problem when cold and its fine once warm. Any other ideas? Cheers.

Toby

[mrdb]

faulty engine temp sensor??

Air leak when cold ??

Faulty Coil ??

Ive same problem and have checked everything now apart from temp sensor so thats my last resort..

[Bone]

It's had a new coolant temp sensor and a new coil. It's doing my nut in

[djpkins]

lol...I had exactly the same prob...lumpy as a lump untill it was warm...tried replacement tps, coil, leads, dizzy cap and arm, plugs, coolant temp sensor, cold start timer (rev2)....replaced the silicone hoses for the intercooler which helped as 2 were badly fatigued and leaking air when boosting....but the thing that cured it was....I bled the system (3 times)and removed an air lock ...it is now running as smooth as silk....it cost nothing to do and is a piece of cake..I don't know why there is such a phobia about bleeding these cars up...

[Bone]

Did yours pop and bang, misfire or did it just run lumpy?

[djpkins]

I had the lot mate...pops and bangs all the time still ...to the point where I can do it on command by a wee blip of the throttle just after the over run...but jeez it used to almost kangaroo sometimes...all I did was...

attach the bleeding tubes to the 2 taps up frunk...1 on the bulkhead and 1 on the right hand side of the rad...pipes tie wrapped up in the air, unscrew the taps a bit and release the water filler cap in the engine bay, not take it off just undo it a bit. Start the engine and let it run with the heating set to full hot...and after a few mins the bubbles just worked their way through an up/out of the pipes...deffo checking the coil is worthwhile, I'm gonna check my spare according to the bgb later.
Peter from S-bits...a hugely helpfull fellow...offered to send me replacement parts for you to use as diagnostic tools...for a nominal fee and postage.

A prob with diagnosing stuff on a forum is you get everyones probs all at once and what they did to fix it...very helpfull but can also be overwhelming and make the prob seem worse than it is...always seems to be the simple fix that works...if the water temp sensor is too hot or cold due to it not being in water...it will be working correctly but sending the wrong info to the ecu for smooth running.

[Chr15py]

Something to check guys. As you said its the same in the morning then gets better as it heats up, I think this is your problem!

Last year my car was having running issues also. Felt flat between 2000 - 35000 rpm and was ALWAYS worse when the air was wet/damp/misty - no issues at all when dry. I changed almost every ignition component to no avail. I spoke to Patrick at Rogue and he mentioned something about the Igniter - basically the spark generator that the king lead is attached to (small spark lead from the distributor). I dug it out (not an easy job as it is bloody hidden - gits!) and the plastic that covers the coil had split and rusted!

There is no easy check as it has another cover that is supposed to shield it from rain so you will have to dig it out to check. Do this by unbolting the fuse box in the engine bay and several metal "blocks" on the back bulkhead in that area - will give you more room to move.

If it is cracked, replace it! Toyota want your soul for a new one so I'd suggest someone who is breaking one.

Also I "think" the Turbo and N/A ones are the same......can someone in the know please verify this?
Hope that helps.


Chris

[Rogue]

Last year my car was having running issues also. Felt flat between 2000 - 35000 rpm and was ALWAYS worse when the air was wet/damp/misty - no issues at all when dry. I changed almost every ignition component to no avail. I spoke to Patrick at Rogue and he mentioned something about the Igniter - basically the spark generator that the king lead is attached to (small spark lead from the distributor). I dug it out (not an easy job as it is bloody hidden - gits!) and the plastic that covers the coil had split and rusted!

Just to clarify, it's the coil pack - not the igniter.

[djpkins]

Does the coil need to be attached to the car to be tested? I know it has to be unconnected ....On my spare that I have in front of me I have a secondary coil resistance reading of 12.11 ohms , which is bang on but I can't get anything to register when I test the primary coil resistance between the poz and neg pins .

[Chr15py]

Does the coil need to be attached to the car to be tested? I know it has to be unconnected ....On my spare that I have in front of me I have a secondary coil resistance reading of 12.11 ohms , which is bang on but I can't get anything to register when I test the primary coil resistance between the poz and neg pins .

Yeah needs to be earthed to the bulkhead. You'll know if it's mullered or not - it will be cracked if it is.

Chris

[Chr15py]

Last year my car was having running issues also. Felt flat between 2000 - 35000 rpm and was ALWAYS worse when the air was wet/damp/misty - no issues at all when dry. I changed almost every ignition component to no avail. I spoke to Patrick at Rogue and he mentioned something about the Igniter - basically the spark generator that the king lead is attached to (small spark lead from the distributor). I dug it out (not an easy job as it is bloody hidden - gits!) and the plastic that covers the coil had split and rusted!

Just to clarify, it's the coil pack - not the igniter.

Lol whoops. Cheers Patrick for the correction
Chris

[Bone]

It's had lambda sensor, plugs, leads, coil, igniter, dis cap, rotor arm, coolant temp sensor, main earth under inlet removed and cleaned, map sensor pipe put back to original and I sourced a new feed from end of the inlet manifold for my boost sensor and gauge.

Tomorrow I'm going to bleed the coolant system and see if that helps.

[djpkins]

Good man...I really hope this sorts it out...have you got an after market downpipe on it...may be worthwhille checking for any blowing around the elbow area when starting from cold ...before you start bleeding...this is also something that I've had probs with in the recent past.My dp wasn't made with any kind of support bracket and had a complex spiderweb like series of splits running around it...untill it got bad enough to hear clearly it was also a source of air getting in to the lambda and , I suppose, creating a false o2 reading causing the car to overfuel.

[Bone]

Yeah I've got a berk downpipe. I have got a very slight blow at the moment. I've just changed the turbo to downpipe gasket and there's still a leak. I'll have to investigate further. I can't see it effecting it much because my old downpipe cracked 3/4 of the way round and it still ran ok.