Tickover too high. !

[carlos9999]

Hi guys. Tickover is a bit high, about 1200/1300 rpm.
This is after the car has reached operating temperature.
Any ideas. ?

[Rob]

Mine (Rev3 3SGTE) sits around 1050rpm, is that where you think it should be? I think mine is around 150rpm too high..... I am sure it has crept up.....

[carlos9999]

Yup. Same ere, bin creepin up over time I'm sure. rev 3 3sgte. I'm sure it should be around 850 rpm

[carlos9999]

actually its more like 1050/1100 rpm.. but still too high.!!

[carlos9999]

anyone shed any light on this...???

[dayc1972]

i was informed a while ago that mr2 and celica idle can creep up over time and should be adjusted about once a year.

the guy said that you put the paper clip in the diagnostic socket as if you were fault finding. you no checkin the light flashes on the dash.

when the clip is in and the car is warm and running.
you turn the screw under the little red cap on the throttle body.

you need the car in diagnostic mode with the clip or the idle wont alter.

[JeffD]

I've had idling problems recently and although not quite fixed yet its vastly improved after cleaning out the throttle body and in particular the ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve) and replacing the ISCV sensor. Just wondering whether yours is getting gunged up over time.....

Try removing your air intake pipe where it meets the throttle body and see how clean it is inside - if its all black appearing to have a coating of slimey oiley mess I'd remove and clean it with carburettor cleaner.

Few pics for you - its the N/A so a slightly different but same sort of gist.

Throttle body with the air intake removed - this has had a clean already but if the inside of this is covered in sludge then I'd remove for a clean.



Idle speed control valve sensor is held on with 2 screws and is basicly an electro magnet that controls the valves (ignore the green arrows - its the screws you can see the screwdriver in)



After removal I noticed mine was cracked and not working so I replaced it



It actually turns the valve via a cylinder that pokes out the top - you should be able to opena dn close the valve by hand by twisting it between your fingers - as you can see mines filthy



Not surgically clean but a lot better after a good dosing with carburettor cleaner



I cleaned our every orifice I could find! Dont miss out the small hole in the throttle body that goes to the charcoal canister - I had to use a safety pin to help clean that



ISCV screws can be difficult to remove so make sure you use exact size screw driver - on a couple of them I had to resort to mole grips to start them off

[Rob]

Jeff - that is a really good write up, thanks for putting the time into it.

Is there any danger of disturbing any factory pre-set angles on the ICV? My mind lets me down, but it was either on my old Rev2 NA engine or my E36 BMW that I sold - there was a black ICV with a yellow dash of paint indicating the pre-set factory angle that the sensor was adjusted to.....you could tilt the unit between the screws as there was travel in the holes.

[JeffD]

There are 2 things marked with a dab of yellow paint 1) the throttle position sensor shown in this photo which Toyota advise you don't clean (see note on bottom of page EG-255).



and the plate on the ISCV itself which I did remove but wouldnt reccomend as its not dirty inside - its just the spring for the valve to make it return.



Its this area you want to clean:



plus the main throttle body unit itself - make sure you blast through all the pipes too.

[RobPhoboS]

My high idle issue was down the the thermostat but I could see the temperature was only at quarter way even after hours driving.

[carlos9999]

Thanks fella's. Will investigate this.

[carlos9999]

Thanks fella's. Will investigate this.

[spoofer]

hi Guys

ive had simler problems with my cars idle speed 1200rpm.

also recent head rebuild.

ive just stripped the throttle body and clean the gunk out. and changed the ICV. but she still running at 1200 when warm. any ideas?

[spoofer]

i have jsut completely replaced teh thottlebody and sencers, and the car still idles at 1600rpm

[spoofer]

turns out mine was vac pipes

[Rob]

Which ones?

[spoofer]

tot he back right side of the dizzy, under the part of the inlet with the butterflys in, and plus 2 of the fly things arm jammed open, so trip to the brakers at the weekend

[Rob]

^ thanks

[carlos9999]

ok guys... a little update.. i ain't had time to do anything wiv the car yet... but i took my car in for an mot today and while the car was ticking over doing the emission's, my revs have dropped and all is normal now..!! i know they leave it runing for a while to get it nice and warm to get a good reading on the emission's.
so the only thing i can think of is i recently put a new battery in and ever since then i was having the tick-over problem. now i know that the ecu needs to learn. so in theory I'm thinking once i took out the battery, in effect it reset the ecu and it had to learn again where the correct idle was......
i don't know for sure, but maybe..!! what do you guys think..?

hope all that makes sense.

[spoofer]

replaced teh vack choke unit, and mine is idling fine, warm and cold