Whiteline Anti Roll Bars

[cartledge_uk]

On the subject of MK1a rear anti-roll bars Paul, what options do I have for beefing up my MK1a rear anti-roll bar with out the expense of a Whiteline one? ie is there anything out there that will fit without any, or very little, modification?

You need to modify for the whiteline bar too

[PW@Woodsport]

I didn't know that Tim

To be honest it seems a bit pointless going for whiteline bars on a Mk1 when the beefier Mk2 stuff will fit.

[cartledge_uk]

I didn't know that Tim

To be honest it seems a bit pointless going for whiteline bars on a Mk1 when the beefier Mk2 stuff will fit.

Its the adjustability the whitelines give you, but yes, there is no straight fit ARB for the 1a that i'm aware of.

[Jimbo_Jet]

Would this from Fensport be a straight swap?

http://www.fensport.co.uk/Parts/Model_2 ... ory_2/2020

[cartledge_uk]

Would this from Fensport be a straight swap?

http://www.fensport.co.uk/Parts/Model_2 ... ory_2/2020

nope, sorry

[Jimbo_Jet]

That's naught, they say it's for 84 -86. Not impressed So is that the same as the MK1b one?

[cartledge_uk]

That's naught, they say it's for 84 -86. Not impressed So is that the same as the MK1b one?

Thats fensport for you,

Have a look on the whiteline website, they only list for the 1b

http://www.whiteline.com.au/search.php

[DJJAW11]

That's naught, they say it's for 84 -86. Not impressed So is that the same as the MK1b one?

Thats fensport for you, overpriced cowboys

Have a look on the whiteline website, they only list for the 1b

http://www.whiteline.com.au/search.php

whiteline...
http://www.carpron.com/multisite/v/Uplo ... ?g2_page=7

David

[Jimbo_Jet]

Beefing the rear ARB is one of the best mods you can do we have found.

A mk2 Turbo ARB will fit on the rear of a Mk1 if you do the following.

1. Use the current rearmost mounting hole as the new front bracket mounting hole.
2. Drill a new rear hole in the correct position (this effectively moves the ARB into the Mk1b position.
3. Cut open a small access flap in the top of the chassis leg inside the boot directly over the new hole.
4. Weld a nut captive inside the chassis.
5. Weld and seam seal the access flap back over.

Don't feel bad about cutting into the top of the chassis rail, Toyota already have two such access panels already in the boot, but they are covered in soundproofing type tar, these are there for exactly the same purpose.

EDIT: you need to use Mk1 FRONT ARB brackets on the rear with this mod and 19mm bushes.

Thanks Paul

[mk1mr2]

Beefing the rear ARB is one of the best mods you can do we have found.

A mk2 Turbo ARB will fit on the rear of a Mk1 if you do the following.

1. Use the current rearmost mounting hole as the new front bracket mounting hole.
2. Drill a new rear hole in the correct position (this effectively moves the ARB into the Mk1b position.
3. Cut open a small access flap in the top of the chassis leg inside the boot directly over the new hole.
4. Weld a nut captive inside the chassis.
5. Weld and seam seal the access flap back over.

Don't feel bad about cutting into the top of the chassis rail, Toyota already have two such access panels already in the boot, but they are covered in soundproofing type tar, these are there for exactly the same purpose.

EDIT: you need to use Mk1 FRONT ARB brackets on the rear with this mod and 19mm bushes.

Sorry to hijack / resurrect this thread, but I was interested in doing this upgraded on a Mk1b (1989).

I have seen other threads recommend the use of the Mk1b front brackets & bushes... would there be any problems fitting the Mk2 ARB into the Mk1b front bushes as the diameter is 18mm?

Thanks

[jnoiles]

Just a techy point to note, if you lower the car you want longer links, not shorter ones to keep the angle of the ARB the same as it was before the lowering.

Paul, can you elaborate? If you picture the front of an mr2 with standard suspension, as viewed from the side the arb would be parallel to the flat road beneath the car right?

If you lowered it with springs and kyb dampers are you saying that the lowering would somehow increase the length of the distance between the arb and the bit where it bolts on to the strut?

I'm having trouble visualising this? If you imagine a standard damper and spring in the standard strut, then you use lowered springs and uprated dampers, doesn't the effective length of the strut decrease meaning you'd need shorter drop links to keep the arb parallel to the road?

I ask because I've got kyb dampers and 30mm lowering springs on my mk1a and recently it failed MOT because the drop links were loose, not at the arb end but at the bit where they bolt on to the suspension strut.

From looking at it up on the hoist the standard length drop links were pushing up very hard against the bit where it bolts on to the strut. When we jacked the car up you could feel it moving freely. We unbolted the drop links and the hole in the strut had ovalled, vertically as though something was pushing up against it with great force. You can actually see the way its pushed upwards.

It looked to us from poking around at it on the ground/hoist/jacked up that the standard length drop links were too long, causing the ovalling that wasn't happening when she was at standard ride height.

To that end I found a set of Volvo V70 front drop links for £16 from a local motor factors. They're about 25mm shorter. When we bolted these on everything sat flat and happy. This seemed to fix the problem.

From what I saw I can't make your comment about needing longer ones make sense? That sounds to me like it would only make the initial problem of ovalling worse?

This is on a mk1a

[MartG]

Remember the ARB is mounted to the chassis and the strut casing. When the car is lowered using shorter springs, the chassis moves downwards but the strut casing remains in the same place, hence the need for longer droplinks

[jnoiles]

Remember the ARB is mounted to the chassis and the strut casing. When the car is lowered using shorter springs, the chassis moves downwards but the strut casing remains in the same place, hence the need for longer droplinks

Perfect, thanks.