Newbie - Track prep

[r lee]

Let me introduce myself. I'm Richard.

I bought a Toyota MR2 GT-S Turbo for my track car.
I've currently it stripped out.
No interior, sound deadening, passenger seat, and dashboard.
I have a drivers seat, steering wheel, gear knob, handbrake, and speedo (just taped around to hold it in place).
Engine wise, I'm going to leave it as it is for now.
Tyres are some Toyos in great condition. I'm going to finish them before I fit some slicks/semi.
Suspension, totally standard. Wobbly when driving aggressive, but predictable.
Brakes, uprated discs and pads. Not braided lines.

Problem is what to do now?


Using my head, I should put a cage in next, otherwise the seats might not fit, correct?
I have billions of wires hanging all over the place. What the bu88ery do I do with them all? Would an Auto-electrician be able to come and chop away what I don't need?
Heaters, I have no control panel for AC and heaters now. How do I sort out the plumbing side? Just literally remove all the heater matrix and AC unit? I get told that I might need demisters, though? I can't even open my windows without the controller.
Finally, speedo is crudely stuck on. Do I need it? Should I invest in an aftermarket something or another?

I guess I should have stuck with the dash so it can hide all the wiring, keep the heaters, keep the speedo in place. Too late now

[ashley]

Let me introduce myself. I'm Richard.

I bought a Toyota MR2 GT-S Turbo for my track car.
I've currently it stripped out.
No interior, sound deadening, passenger seat, and dashboard.
I have a drivers seat, steering wheel, gear knob, handbrake, and speedo (just taped around to hold it in place).
Engine wise, I'm going to leave it as it is for now.
Tyres are some Toyos in great condition. I'm going to finish them before I fit some slicks/semi.
Suspension, totally standard. Wobbly when driving aggressive, but predictable.
Brakes, uprated discs and pads. Not braided lines.

Problem is what to do now?


Using my head, I should put a cage in next, otherwise the seats might not fit, correct?

Depends on what cage you choose- I've got the rogue cage installed and standard seats fit fine.

I have billions of wires hanging all over the place. What the bu88ery do I do with them all? Would an Auto-electrician be able to come and chop away what I don't need?

Yes but an professional would cost you a fortune in labour- it is a very time consuming job unravelling the loom and stripping out redundant circuits...either do it yourself, or leave them...you can get plastic loom covers to tidy everything up, or just cable tie it all up into neat bundles.

Heaters, I have no control panel for AC and heaters now. How do I sort out the plumbing side?

You'll need to by-pass the pipes that run from the engine and above the fuel tank to the heater matrix and back again...easy enough with some decent automotive rubber tubing- pirtek will sort you out.

Just literally remove all the heater matrix and AC unit? I get told that I might need demisters, though?

If you are happy with no heating in the car then yes- why not! If you need a demister (vital imo if driving the car in winter) then you can use an electric fan heater.

I can't even open my windows without the controller.

Personally I prefer to be able to open the window! I have left the wiring in place and simply relocated the drivers window switch into the centre consol...passenger window motor has been removed and pinned closed. I would put the driver's window wiring and switch back in...

Finally, speedo is crudely stuck on. Do I need it? Should I invest in an aftermarket something or another?

If you want to pass an MOT you need a speedo, so depends if you still want to drive on the road. I would absolutely look to fix it more securely in place- why not cable tie it to the bar that runs across the car under the dashboard? Holds it securely enough...I'd be nervous of a taped up speedo coming loose on the track.



HTH

[loudandproud205]

speedo is not part of the test, and they wouldnt really know if it worked anyway as the car shoudnt be taken above 5 mph really as it would be going from parking space to testing bay back to parking bay there is no need to exceed 5mph on site

[dantheman]

the thing is with stripping the car out is you may regret going too far. for instance if you remove the heater matrix and therefore heating and demisting ability, as suggested you are going to have to by rubber hosing and a fan heater. small weight saving, extra costs, not much gain.

if you remove the window controller you have to remove the window motors too. but now you cant wind windows down. so as an example you have the car in a car park, you are in harnesses and the windows dont work. you have to undo your harnesses and get out the car to put your ticket in the machine. was the weight saving really worth it? what about in the scorching heat on a trackday in summer? no heating, no window control. you will get very hot indeed. it may be so uncomfortable on track you can only manage 5-10 minute stints. again is it really worth it?

all these features were put in the car to make it usable, if you remove them you pay the price. the most i can tolerate is having to use the holes in the inside of the door to close it, as i have no door cards so no door handles. i catch and cut my hand too often for my liking, that im tempted to fabricate handles. if you arent competing, dont strip it out excessively, theres no point.

[ashley]

speedo is not part of the test

I stand corrected!

[monkeyra]

the thing is with stripping the car out is you may regret going too far. for instance if you remove the heater matrix and therefore heating and demisting ability, as suggested you are going to have to by rubber hosing and a fan heater. small weight saving, extra costs, not much gain.

if you remove the window controller you have to remove the window motors too. but now you cant wind windows down. so as an example you have the car in a car park, you are in harnesses and the windows dont work. you have to undo your harnesses and get out the car to put your ticket in the machine. was the weight saving really worth it? what about in the scorching heat on a trackday in summer? no heating, no window control. you will get very hot indeed. it may be so uncomfortable on track you can only manage 5-10 minute stints. again is it really worth it?

all these features were put in the car to make it usable, if you remove them you pay the price. the most i can tolerate is having to use the holes in the inside of the door to close it, as i have no door cards so no door handles. i catch and cut my hand too often for my liking, that im tempted to fabricate handles. if you arent competing, dont strip it out excessively, theres no point.

All depends what the car is being used for.

The original post stated:

"I bought a Toyota MR2 GT-S Turbo for my track car."

It's a track car, so the less the better!

[bri0905]

if you remove the window controller you have to remove the window motors too

Why? I removed the door cards and fitted carbon fibre ones and have just finished fitting a simple switch to work the windows. Removed all the door wiring apart from a switched live to power the switch.

[monkeyra]

if you remove the window controller you have to remove the window motors too

Why? I removed the door cards and fitted carbon fibre ones and have just finished fitting a simple switch to work the windows. Removed all the door wiring apart from a switched live to power the switch.

Ditto. I'm going to swap the windows for polycarbonate at some point, but this the stepping stone until I can be ar$ed.

[ashley]

what to do now?

Thinking about it a bit more...

- fully service the engine and brakes, oil change, coolant check, etc etc etc
- braided brake lines
- consider poly bushing the suspension
- MR2s love negative camber- maybe get a set of crash bolts (cheap and effective mod for the track)
- strut braces
- a hand held fire extinguisher
- harder dampers and springs (or coilovers if you can afford it)

Get the handling sorted- you don't want it to feel

Wobbly

you want it to feel planted

[dantheman]

All depends what the car is being used for.

The original post stated:

"I bought a Toyota MR2 GT-S Turbo for my track car."

It's a track car, so the less the better!

didnt say it was being trailored so i assumed it would be driven to tracks. when you have to drive it a few hundred miles to and from track its a whole different story

Why? I removed the door cards and fitted carbon fibre ones and have just finished fitting a simple switch to work the windows. Removed all the door wiring apart from a switched live to power the switch.

ok you dont have to, but if i had to guess, your setup with carbon fibre door cards and home made window switch is heavier than no door card and stock switch, not to mention more expensive. for me the choice is window switch and electric window, potentially with door card, or no switch, no electric window, no doorcard. but i wouldnt remove the switch and leave the motor in.

[r lee]

Thanks for the replies guys.

This is purely a track car.
I drive an e46 m3 convertible (girls version ) as my daily driver.
The only time the car will be used on the road, is when doing the odd bit of road testing here and there, and the journey to and from the track itself.

In regards to polycarb windows, would they be held in strong enough as there is no window frame at the top. Can you get the windows with the sliding window in it, like on rally cars or whatever they use them on? Its just so I can get a bit of air into the cabin if needed to. Maybe a silly question, but if I remove the window motors, does the window stay up permanently? I won't fall down, will it?

I'm going by the rule, "if its not needed, i don't want it."
Essentially, I want a bog standard as possible car.
Any pics would be appreciated. Its bloody daunting and I need some confidence inspiring pics

Enjoying it loads by the way

[r lee]

Apologies.
I've just realised this forum has its own Motorsport and Trackday section.

[bri0905]

but if i had to guess, your setup with carbon fibre door cards and home made window switch is heavier than no door card and stock switch, not to mention more expensive

How do you figure, the std door card weighs 2.5kg my cf one is feather light and 1mm thick. the std window switch is massive and the replacement is very small light and cost £1.99 from ebay, plus the weight of the wiring i removed. The carbon door cards are now selling on ebay for £76.50 and i sold my std seats and cards for £150. I figure my doors are lighter and i still have money in my pocket. Plus some places can be funny about bare doors on interiors, sharp edges and suchlike, and if you want to enter a race series it won't be allowed to race without some form of door card.


I'll get some pics up soon for you of the interior of mine as it stands.
Bri

[monkeyra]

In regards to polycarb windows, would they be held in strong enough as there is no window frame at the top. Can you get the windows with the sliding window in it, like on rally cars or whatever they use them on?

Ideally, you'd want a roll cage installed first, and then you'd hook the top of the window to the frame. I enquired about this about plastics4performance, and this is what others do who have frameless windows.

[Tomiam]

Ive removed everything from the interior of mine, thats including dash, heater / blower etc. In terms of windows misting up, just buy some isopropanol alcohol (from chemist) and some rainex (halfords).

Isopro... gets all the greese and muck off the window and doesnt leave a residue.
Rainex.. is then allowed to do its job to the best it can. Keeping your windows clear.

Ive tested this out on 1/2 of the passenger window. One half cleaned and wiped with rainex and the other left as it was. I ended up with a completely clear half and a completely misted half.
Ive run on track days / driven to events in the rain using this and its so far worked with 100% clarity for me.

Hope this helps.
------------------------------------------------
In terms of what to do next in your car. It sounds like you should spend some time making the interior a bit tidier / safer. Have a look in there and work out what your body would hit in the event of a crash / roll. You can get rubber edging from ebay / demon tweeks which will cover up things like the edging around the doors etc.

[dantheman]

How do you figure, the std door card weighs 2.5kg my cf one is feather light and 1mm thick. the std window switch is massive and the replacement is very small light and cost £1.99 from ebay, plus the weight of the wiring i removed. The carbon door cards are now selling on ebay for £76.50 and i sold my std seats and cards for £150. I figure my doors are lighter and i still have money in my pocket. Plus some places can be funny about bare doors on interiors, sharp edges and suchlike, and if you want to enter a race series it won't be allowed to race without some form of door card.

I'll get some pics up soon for you of the interior of mine as it stands.
Bri

2.5kg is bound to be more than the weight of the standard switch and wires. its big but its not 2.5kg big. also you have paid 78.50 for what is essentially a free mod. yes ok if its needed for competition then fine, but theres track prep and then theres race prep....

[swampy]

I have a similar thread in the motorsport section

Any one with some pics of interiors with dash,s out etc?

[bri0905]

The door card weighs 2.5kg not just the switch and wires. And like i say some track day organisers can be funny, if they think the door being open can injure you they won't let you out on track. Not worth the risk leaving doors bare.

[ashley]

Yeh- I really need to get some cards sorted...bin a bit lax on that one