
Do Halfords or similar do a tool for un-doing the head bolts?




Need to get the head off tomorrow, so if someone could help, that would be great!!

Paul.

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JJ wrote:Agreed, way forward is to get the long reach ones..
.
this will clear the cams otherwise you'll get down to the last bolt on the inlet, next to no.
1 bearing cap and find you won't get the socket
/ star drive in
!!
Then its pulleys off, timing back plate off, inlet cam out before you can have a crack at that bolt- makes life easier when refitting
/ bolting down the head of having the head
/ pulleys all in one lump opposed to trying to assemble it in the engine bay
!
JJ wrote:You still need a long reach star drive though, otherwise you'll be assembling the cams on the head once you've bolted it down.
It should be as simple as building the block, building the head, bolt them together and lash a timing belt on them..
.
.
none of this retorque of bolts into an alloy cast
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holding down bearings for the cams
( bearing caps
) be careful
!
I screwed one up last year.
.
.
caused me additional time wasteing tapping the thing out and getting a larger bolt in there.
Have fun
JJ wrote:none of this retorque of bolts into an alloy cast![]()
![]()
holding down bearings for the cams
( bearing caps
) be careful
!
I screwed one up last year.
.
.
caused me additional time wasteing tapping the thing out and getting a larger bolt in there.
Have fun
One more question on this- the service manual says to remove the cams and then the head
(undoing bolts in the correct manner) Is it really necessary to remove the cams before removing the head bolts?
That was a real pain in the ar$e
JJ wrote:
Good job we were swapping out that inlet manifold, otherwise more countless hours doing that too!
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nutter wrote:They're star drives not torx heads, metric.Can't remember off hand the size but if no-one has replied to this post when i get home i'll check for you.