[Mk2] [Turbo] Lowering Inlet Temps

[Steve-O 2007]

Could it not be a bad thing having too fast of a pump?? Surely if the pumps too fast it wont give the water enough time to cool down in the radiator??

[raptor95GTS]

but you don't want the water sitting in the core heating up while you are boosting either. So given the choice I'd rather keep the water in the core for as little time as possible that and turbulent flow is better at removing heat than nice lamina flow. Big pump every time, you at least have the option to slow it down whereas a small pump is well stuck

[tubby_tony]

And after all that, fit a WI kit to help even more.

[Steve-O 2007]

Is that "Water Wetter" stuff any good? Wonder if that would help. Can you mix that stuff into coolant?

[raptor95GTS]

Is that "Water Wetter" stuff any good? Wonder if that would help. Can you mix that stuff into coolant?

it's supposed to help remove the likelihood of cavitation so removing the air giving a better cooling medium. Supposed to work quite well but never tested it myself

[Steve Horrocks]

Just to add my 2p worth.
Had car mapped on Tuesday, and on many hard pulls in 3rd, 4th & 5th, I saw temps not over 36 degrees. That's with nothing more than an eBay special IC in the boot & 2 spals on it. Oh, at 1.4 bar.

[bolton]

What turbos that on?

[raptor95GTS]

Just to add my 2p worth.
Had car mapped on Tuesday, and on many hard pulls in 3rd, 4th & 5th, I saw temps not over 36 degrees. That's with nothing more than an eBay special IC in the boot & 2 spals on it. Oh, at 1.4 bar.

great result for sure but no use to anyone needing their boot

[Steve Horrocks]

Ha ha! I know, do miss the boot at times (taking camping gear to JAE?!) it's on a T67 turbo using stock spec (but built) engine, as in cams, piston size, valves, etc

[2barGee]

Hi mate, on my cc set up I've got a radtec rad (not cheap) HUGE aqua tiger pump & a custom precision core. Now normal road driving I cannot even get the core even slightly warm 2 touch! The only Reading I have is from the power fc air temp........ Sat in traffic I can see 50+ on the motorway I get around 25-40 but it all depends how much I boost, the more boost I run the more the temps drop

On a track day once I've finished a session the core does get warm but the temps never go above 45ish but I don't really get chance 2 look whilst on track

I would say if you don't plan 2 do any track days your set up will be fine as it is, but as u want lower temps I would get a better front rad with your pump or go 4 a pump like mine it's been on 4 about 3yrs and never let me down!

[Steve-O 2007]

cant wait till I get mine on too see the difference. My Intercoolers Cold pipe (the one going into the throttle inlet) is too hot to touch after a hard run / long drive!!! Im guessing this is why I loose power the hotter the car gets?

[Dale_V]

update on my set up

the coolant sender was reading wrong, so ive sorted that now.. on a blast now I cant get the coolant temps above 30deg C

I also now have the inlet air temp plugged in, and on boost, no matter how many pulls I do, I cant get it above 35deg C

very happy with the figures.... so far

[Moo]

Nice figures

Hoping that when I get my new rad and pump on I will see similar figures.

[Dale_V]

moo, have you ever had problems with any of your readouts/sensors?

I have the same units as you and the intake tamp one is perfect, however the coolant temp one doesnt read properly now, the blue light is on and the digits are lit up black, but ALL the screens digits are lit so its unreadable, it only does this with the engine on... with the engine off and the car/engine being cold it reads summat stupid like 98deg C

wonder if I have a dodgy sensor or if its the display itself

ps: still cant get the intake temp above 35

[Moo]

Are you using exactly the same displays as me, i.e., the Scythe Kama Mini with the built in lithium battery? If yes are you using the battery as well as the 12v feed or just the 12v feed? I haven't seen what you describe with my displays and only run them on 12v but you could try sticking the battery in and see what it does. On battery power it will display figures all the time and only light up blue when the 12v is live.

I know that when the sensor is disconnected or not working the display will show L so it may be the display that's at fault. Depending on how you did your wiring could try swapping the displays over, that will tell you if it's the display or the sensor. Either way I've got spare sensors if you need them and 2 of the large displays spare but not the mini displays. Shout me if you need some bits.

My inlet temp display was doing some weird stuff last week, reading in the 90's then -10 then L then other random figures before it packed up completely. I'd put some heatshrink insulation around the top of the sensor for rigidity but had left too much of the sensor head exposed and it was flexing too much in the manifold, eventually breaking that fine wire in the tip. Wouldn't have thought you'd get that kind of movement in the CC core though.

I've noticed a drop in my temps over the last week as the outside temps have come down. Im seeing CC water temps at mid 30's and intake temps high 30's/low 40's after ragging it. Still want to get them down but it looks like I've been stitched on the GT4 rad I bought from another member on here so will just swap the pump over for now and see how it goes.

[Dale_V]

yeah its defo one of the kama displays, im using the larger ones and not the mini though. I dont have the battery in there, just hooked upto the 12v supply via the converter. ive just put another sensor on, waiting for the sikaflex to dry and then I can test it tommorrow... hopefully it was just a crap sensor

[Moo]

If it's the display I've got a spare large one if you need it

[Dale_V]

cheers mate, ill let you know how i get on tommorow