Emanage install ...

[Bender Unit]

Emanage install.

This weekend I managed to wire an Emanage Blue into my car – neat install too if I do say so myself! Plugged it all in and even got it chatting with the lap top so happy days!

One issue though …

I tried to set the throttle parameter up but for some reason the Emanage isn’t reading anything from the throttle?! Can anyone confirm does the TPS on the 4age act as a switch or a proper position sensor? If it’s a switch then that might explain the lack of reading.

Can anyone with the Emanage confirm the situation with TPS set up?

[Tiny]

Give Ryan at 2bar a ring he will definetly know the answer

[crazybrightman]

im sure its a variable resistor i dont know of any efi systems that run a switch that is mounted as a rotary sensor.
maybe you just have the wrong wire from the orginal loom?
get a multimeter in the tps and check its actualy ok and work down the wiring from there.

[Bender Unit]

See thats what I thought.

99% certain its the right cable - matched the cables coming off the TPS - IIRC it was a blue cable, black line and red dots.

Its showing 5v when you start the TPS test, but that dosnt vary when the pedla is pressed. I will disconnect the TPS plu and see if the voltage reading goes - if it does it means its picking up a TPS signal but not responding?!

I will get a Multimeter on the TPS and see how the voltage changes when its rotated.

[Bender Unit]

Bah what a wally, all sorted now. Woo

[Tiny]

wrong lead?

[Bender Unit]

Yeah there are 4 leads coming off the tps, 3 are next to each other in the ecu connector stupidly picked the wrong one. Poo. Easily fixed though.

[crazybrightman]

glad its a simple fix, you usualy know if its not connected aswell as most sensors only ewad from 0.2-4.8v's a max reading ie 5v means theres a problem.

[Olly.Dent]

I dont think Ryan is a big fan of the blue Emanage and i would say call him and ask why.

[Bender Unit]

I know the emb isn't everyones gave but for tuning a low powered na application it's fine, not shooting for 1 million horsepower. I should be ok.

[Jim-SR]

I dont think Ryan is a big fan of the blue Emanage and i would say call him and ask why.

what else would he suggest as an alternative that can be bought for under £150 on ebay? the emanage blue is cheap, its not a bad piggyback unit as far as piggybacks go, and the 4A-GE is an incredibly simple engine electronically that really doesnt require anything any more spectacular.

we'd all like to be running Motec im sure, but why spend £2000+ when £150 does the job?

[jon_st205]

Agreed. Fancy having a go at this on my 162, installation is pretty simple I take it?

Jon

[Bender Unit]

Agreed. Fancy having a go at this on my 162, installation is pretty simple I take it?

Yep installation was done in about 2 hours, and I was being exceptionally fussy with cable runs, connections etc as I hate messy electrics. I intended to make a bridging loom so I would have my own P&P harness however I got 85% into it and then was scuppered. My impatience won, I binned the idea and I tapped directly into the wiring loom!

Biggest pain in the butt was the data cable and getting it to chat with the laptop. I bought a USB to serial connector and after some cussing and messing with drivers & com ports everything was set.

The instructions aren’t great though, there isnt much help available and I think that’s why people get annoyed and quit and equally the laptop connections seem to screw most people up. But then if they can’t get a laptop driver installed and working why do they think they can map a car?!

To be honest it all looks quite simple in terms of adjustment etc, time will tell though.

Keen to get my hands on a wideband and have a play and see what I can do with it. Going to just play around mapping the stock engine first and once I am comfortable I know what I am doing install my ITB’s and cams and start trying to get the engine to run nicely on that.

Cheers

James

[JMR_AW11]

There's a few things to be wary of on the UK mk1 ECUs (i.e. MAP sensor type) if you fit a piggyback.

1) When the TVIS kicks in it adds three degrees of ignition advance in one sudden big step. It holds this extra advance until the revs drop 400rpm below the activation rpm. (eg TVIS ON at 4650rpm and OFF at 4250rpm on a mk1b)

So you could get confused by erratic timing when the TVIS goes in and out.

2) The ECU uses the variable TPS voltage for two things.

Above a set TPS threshold the fuelling will suddenly get (much) richer with a big step correction factor. This could confuse a piggy mapper.

Also the ECU uses the TPS for throttle enrichment. It can detect rapid changes in TPS voltage and uses this to add extra pulses to the injectors to provide a crisp throttle response. So best not to mess with altering TPS readings etc.

3) On the later ECUs the fuelling is quite strange. The ECU makes sudden, large step changes in fuelling and the changeover point is not predictable to the onlooker. This results in areas with narrow weak pockets in the fuelling that an unsuspecting mapper could overlook or make even weaker.


So I would be careful with a piggy unit, and only make small changes to the mid range (where most of the above applies)

At higher rpm and load then I think it's less of an issue but the ECU does still have some strange weak holes (these are only 200-300rpm wide) on the fuelling, especially at around 6100rpm at high load.

edit: by 'weak holes' I mean abrupt downward notches in the fuelling. They don't mean the stock car runs weak at these points but it does run with less fuel in the notches. So be wary the piggy doesn't turn them into geniune weak AFR spots.

[Bender Unit]

Thanks for the heads up, food for thought!

Hopefully with a wide band and a set of det cans I should be ok, I suspect this is going to be an ongoing project for me, where I will repatedly be tweaking and adjusting the set up. I know a chap who has a rolling road which he doesn’t use so I am hoping he will let me play around and set the car up safely for some beer money.

There's a few things to be wary of on the UK mk1 ECUs (i.e. MAP sensor type) if you fit a piggyback.

In case it makes any difference its installed on a early JDM map ECU – however I cant see it will. Thinking about it I am unsure if the early map engines in my car even came with TVIS – I have the plug but then I converted a late spec loom to my ECU – so this may not even be a factor? Will have to investigate.

1) When the TVIS kicks in it adds three degrees of ignition advance in one sudden big step. It holds this extra advance until the revs drop 400rpm below the activation rpm. (eg TVIS ON at 4650rpm and OFF at 4250rpm on a mk1b)

Do you know if this still happens with the TVIS disconnected? I have pulled the plug on mine and ultimately when the throttle bodies go on the TVIS will be removed completely.

[JMR_AW11]

Thanks for the heads up, food for thought!

Hopefully with a wide band and a set of det cans I should be ok, I suspect this is going to be an ongoing project for me, where I will repatedly be tweaking and adjusting the set up. I know a chap who has a rolling road which he doesn’t use so I am hoping he will let me play around and set the car up safely for some beer money.

There's a few things to be wary of on the UK mk1 ECUs (i.e. MAP sensor type) if you fit a piggyback.

In case it makes any difference its installed on a early JDM map ECU – however I cant see it will. Thinking about it I am unsure if the early map engines in my car even came with TVIS – I have the plug but then I converted a late spec loom to my ECU – so this may not even be a factor? Will have to investigate.

1) When the TVIS kicks in it adds three degrees of ignition advance in one sudden big step. It holds this extra advance until the revs drop 400rpm below the activation rpm. (eg TVIS ON at 4650rpm and OFF at 4250rpm on a mk1b)

Do you know if this still happens with the TVIS disconnected? I have pulled the plug on mine and ultimately when the throttle bodies go on the TVIS will be removed completely.

Hi
I've not looked at a JDM ECU for the mk1 NA so I can't really advise.

Do you know if this still happens with the TVIS disconnected?

On the UK ECU the ECU won't know you have disconnected the TVIS and it will still blindly send out the control signal to the TVIS control wire.

It will also shift the ignition timing even if the TVIS is no longer there. This function is coded into the ECU program so it will happen regardless.

[Bender Unit]

On the UK ECU the ECU won't know you have disconnected the TVIS and it will still blindly send out the control signal to the TVIS control wire. It will also shift the ignition timing even if the TVIS is no longer there. This function is coded into the ECU program so it will happen regardless.

Hmmm, the engine that came in my car as standard was the old 3 rib 4age and IIRC it didn’t come with TVIS. Whilst I have fitted a late 7 rib engine I am still running the old ECU (that’s if it is the original one). Any idea what voltage gets sent to the TVIS when it activates? I was thinking about sticking a multi meter on the plug and seeing if it shows a volatage when Tvis should supposedly kick in.

[JMR_AW11]

On the UK ECU the ECU won't know you have disconnected the TVIS and it will still blindly send out the control signal to the TVIS control wire. It will also shift the ignition timing even if the TVIS is no longer there. This function is coded into the ECU program so it will happen regardless.

Hmmm, the engine that came in my car as standard was the old 3 rib 4age and IIRC it didn’t come with TVIS. Whilst I have fitted a late 7 rib engine I am still running the old ECU (that’s if it is the original one). Any idea what voltage gets sent to the TVIS when it activates? I was thinking about sticking a multi meter on the plug and seeing if it shows a volatage when Tvis should supposedly kick in.

If you're using the JDM ECU I can't really give much help.

From memory, on the UK car the TVIS is activated by a transistor switch.

On a healthy and complete UK car you would see the TVIS control pin on the ECU go from 13V down to nearly 0V when the TVIS is switching. I can't remember which way round the logic sense is for on/off.

If the TVIS VSV was removed then the pin would have no volts to 'pull down' and you would see the confusing situation of a low voltage on the pin all the time.

Hope the above is correct as I've never actually tried this but it makes sense from how I recall the driver circuit is configured.

Besides, I'm not sure there's much point in doing the test anyway as you can't change anything.

Note that I'm not saying 'don't fit the piggy' because of the TVIS effect on the ignition timing. Just be wary that the step in ignition timing is there on the UK cars and allow for it.

Maybe the JDM ECU is different anyway

[JMR_AW11]

edited earlier post.

[Bender Unit]

Ok ran the car up properly at the weekend as I had refitted my exhaust manifold.

Car seemed fine at idle, but when revved up you could hear it missing. If you held the rev’s at part throttle it would miss and stumble, a quick stab of the throttle at idle would see the engine almost stall. The engine smells pig rich too.

The Emanage flashed a red code so I checked to see what it could be, it’s showing “no injector pulse #3” & “No injector pulse #4”.

In the wiring diagrams it shows 1 & 2 injector channels need tapping for the Emanage and the cables are correct – so why the 3 & 4 error?

Disconnected the Emanage and the engine ran fine again.

I checked all the maps and they are all 0 – so the Emanage shouldn’t be adjusting anything at the moment. Yet when hooked up it seems to be throwing in lots more fuel.

I am confused. Can anyone shed any light?

Does anyone know if the maps you select for the Emanage make a difference to how the engine runs? I have selected the Airflow, ignition, injection and anti stall maps. Just thinking that if I remove the injection map from the Emanage then maybe this will solve the problem? Cant work out if I actually need the “additional injection map” as the fueling will be altered through the Airflow map and it seems the “additional injection map” is for increasing injector duty cycles.

Apologies thinking aloud here, but if anyone has any ideas then please chime in!