Car won't idle

[JJ]

Huh ?! This has gone off at an expensive tangent !!

I'm at a bit of a blocker with this one though.. gone through every avenue....

Rev 3 - mostly a completely different design... most of the metal stuff wont interchange across onto the rev 2 sadly...

[Shmed]

Off at a tangent indeed.

I don't want to put the rev 3 bits on if I can avoid it. The way I see it, I must've missed something. I'm going to make a pressure tester for the intake system to find the leak (as you initially diagnosed). If that doesn't find anything, then I'm going to try a different ECU. If that doesn't work, I might (but would rather not) put it into Mr T.

Failing that, I will accept that this is a dead end and just start focusing on next year and an engine transplant (or just by T2 IMOC if it is still for sale).

[JJ]

The way I see it, I must've missed something. I'm going to make a pressure tester for the intake system to find the leak (as you initially diagnosed). If that doesn't find anything, then I'm going to try a different ECU. If that doesn't work, I might (but would rather not) put it into Mr T.

Toyota Dealer = enjoy !! I dont think they'll do anything else different.

Buying the T reg MR2 is the easy way out !!

[Shmed]

Toyota Dealer = enjoy !! I dont think they'll do anything else different.

My thoughts exactly. I expect they would just start replacing sensors etc at massive cost

Buying the T reg MR2 is the easy way out !!

I know, but at least then I could actually drive the effin thing

[Dale_V]

Mr T wont have a clue and will most likely have a bash themselves by replacing everything, or they'll ship it out to a specialist and charge you a premium for it

[Shmed]

That's my thoughts too. Anyway, the technician didn't phone me back yesterday when he said he would, so I won't be going there

It appears that a Tesco 1 litre Soda water bottle fits perfectly into the air intake pipe. I've fitted a tyre valve into the lid and will be testing it tonight, fingers crossed the leak will show itself

[JJ]

Dont forget to plug the PCV line and the idle control line. !

[Shmed]

2 hours wasted last night, pumping air into the system, and did I plug them holes??? Did I fxxk!! I even put latex gloves over my exhaust pipes as I thought the air was leaking out of there.

Anyway, got a proper compressor coming tonight, and hopefully a better fitting pipe to pump the air in.

I've also ordered new 'O' rings and insulators for the injectors as that is the only place I haven't checked (and having taken a big step back and thinking everything through, there was a fuel leak from that region when I first put the thing back together). The one part I couldn't find was an O ring for the FPR (it's not on the parts guide).

Anyway, fingers crossed that this will be the weekend

[JJ]

Only need to plug the PCV if you're testing AFM pipe back over... otherwise just idle control valve.

Injectors insulators often common thing dropped out of position when refitting injectors.. I've done it.. the angle it refits is difficult to see.. so i usually fit using a fine smigen of instant gasket and affix it first to the rail ( this it the ring seal from the base of the injector to the head face )... Insualtor at the top end of the rail needs to be fitted to stop the injector popping out of position and leaking every bl00dy where.

Could be a productive weekend !

[Shmed]

I've got some silicon grease as I read on antoher thread on here to put a light smear round the o rings. Will that do the job of holdinng the insulators in place? Otherwise I have some gasket blue?

Could be a productive weekend !

Fingers crossed

[Shmed]

Every happy emoticon I can find!!!!

It seems that in my haste to put the fuel rail on (the first part I refitted), I never noticed that there should have been fuel pipe insulators on each of the injector nozzles. So when I took it off, there were none on it, also, the three plastic bits the go between the fuel rail and the engine were knackered. Replaced those, fitted new 'O' rings and insulators to all the injectors, put the fuel pipe insulators on, refitted everything, and bingo bongo, the car now idles !

Unfortunately the knock sensor gave it's life in the process of finding the fault, but lickily I have a rev 3 one on my spare engine , the exhaust gas is now cold (before it was too hot to put my hand in front of the exhaust after about 30 seconds of the car running), and the turbo isn't smoking .

All in all, I think I may have turned the corner in what I thought was a doomed project.

JJ, you have been a legend, thanks for perservering with me !
I owe you a beer or 4 (easy for me to say as you live fookin miles away ) - maybe if we ever attend the same show, I'll sort you out.

[Shmed]

( this it the ring seal from the base of the injector to the head face )...

I think the ones that were missing are the ones you mention here JJ. The parts guide shows injector insulators at the top and bottom of the injector, and I think they call the others fuel pipe insulators.

[tomTRR]

Good news man! Get out and start driving in the sun

[Shmed]

Took it for a drive today, just a short one to test a few things. All seems ok mechanically, except the turbo did smoulder after about ten minutes of driving. Again, I don't know if this is bad, or just burning off cr@p?

I gave it a little boost and it all seemed to be working ok, but what was cr@p was that once the engine had warmed up, I gave it a bit more boost, and the engine cut out with the engine management light on. I let it cool down for ten minutes, then fired her back up, all fine again, but a slightly different noise on boost. Managed to limp home, keeping off boost, and read the error code to be 14, which seems to be the ignitor - does that sound consistent with what I've described?

Also, how hot should the engine bay get?

[Shmed]

Actually, I think it may just be the timing. Seems that the BGB says engine overheats, and slight hesitation on acceleration can be attributed to timing. I'll get me a gun, unless anyone in the North Worcs/South Birmingham area has one I can borrow

[JJ]

Been away a few days... but look at the progress !!

Well done !!

And kick yourself for refitting the injector rail wrongly toooo !!!

We can sort the rest of the running out over the next few weeks !!

Knock sensor ..... check the wiring first unless you've changed it already and its fixed it. Knock sensors can get continuity often, but the wire breaks down and theres a drop in current throwing the ecu into error above 2500 rpm. Rewire !

[Shmed]

And kick yourself for refitting the injector rail wrongly toooo !!!

I have well and truly kicked myself It was the first thing I re-fitted, and I think I got a bit hasty, didn't check the parts guide properly and missed the fuel pipe insulators.

We can sort the rest of the running out over the next few weeks !!

When I was trouble shooting I turned the dizzy clockwise quite a bit, so think I had advanced the timing too far, hence cut out on high boost. I retarded it pretty much all the way anti-clckwise, then I couldn't accelerate over 3000 rpm. I've now found a happy medium, but am borrowing a gun next week to make sure it is right.

Knock sensor ..... check the wiring first unless you've changed it already and its fixed it. Knock sensors can get continuity often, but the wire breaks down and theres a drop in current throwing the ecu into error above 2500 rpm. Rewire !

I put the knock sensor off my rev 3 engine on and the fault code has gone. Seems I bust the old one when I was revving the car with a huge air leak.

I'm sending it to a mates garage for an MOT this week to identify any other issues, I reckon the brake discs might need changing as they have a lot of corrosion having been stood for 2-3 years .

Anyway, just realised I hadn't put any pics up, so here are a few of the car (after an Auto-Glym deep shine polish ).

[JJ]

You know what you've proven ??!! You wont be defeated by a car !!

Well done again !!

In summary though.. that was a hell of a hitlist of things to go through... Looking too hard as well... Rule of thumb with Rev 1/2's... if it starts and runs and wont idle.. = air leak !!