www.imoc.co.uk

You can generally do it by jacking up one corner at a time and rotating the top mount.

Surprised it doesn't feel very wrong.

See Peter's post in the other thread.

Cracked downpipe will play havoc with the lambda readings leading to incorrect fuelling. This is much more important than worries about boost!

For the oil pressure, try a new switch -- your guess is as good as mine.

Gazza_DJ wrote:What's the advantage of switching to a MAP from an AFM?

It's simpler, cheaper to produce, use one part rather than two, etc. At 400+ bhp there are said to be flow advantages.

It's a flap type AFM. not hot wire.

For outright predictability, I'd avoid a rear, transverse engined, car. Period.

Go for FWD, something without lift off oversteer.

You can neuter the 2 by adding in extra rear toe in, but at some point you'd have to wonder if something like a FIAT Barchetta wouldn't be a better choice.

I'd bleed -- but it may simply be water getting into the expansion bottle (see if someone brave with a torch will check!).

N/A or turbo? Top flange or bottom? http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7f/Incandescence_Color.jpg These charts are useful (but cameras tend to exaggerate the heat colour). Maybe red for n/a (folk have reported being able to see individual exhaust pulses in thin manifolds) orange for tur...

All the stuff you need to know about bleeding is in the Big Green Book (see the "Know Your Two" tab on MR2OC, for links, for example). Of course, the other thing worth knowing is that you have to have the heater on full to bleed properly. (willy system (the auto censor will step in here) -...

Generally the K & N stuff is the cheapest!

Larger Halfords may still have it. There are some alternatives -- eBay will throw up a few.

I'd measure. It's a 20 odd year old car. Chances are that someone, at some time, changed the ARBs.

(Been there, done that, got sworn at by the MOT man!)

From what I've found, neither will be magnetic so can't use that to test. Inconels -- if that's what the metal ones really are -- can be magnetic. Nickel is its main component (magnetic) together with 10% or less Iron (magnetic) and other things. Still, the other alloys reduce or eliminate its magn...

Mind you, mine has been in this country for 24 years. Sooner or later I'll get round to the sills, but it looks pretty much like that car in that place!

I'd think Araldite would just be too hard. I'd go for a polyurethane (which will be more similar to the original material).

That pic really doesn't tell you much. Look behind and further up the wing. See if it'll support the jack at the jacking points, pull the foam by the seat belt mount, peer down. As is, if that's all the rust damage, looks as though it could simply be sanded out, treated and re-painted, but it's a bi...

I wrecked one yesterday getting a wing off.

The stud has a relatively thin guage U section at the end which is bonded to the trim. It may be possible to bond one on with something like Sikaflex.

But are there no new ones out there?

Best practice is always to replace dampers as a matched axle pair. a. They'll have significant wear on one unit (very significant wear if they've seen over 40k miles) if you don't. b. You'll not know whether the manufacturer has changed spec in the meantime. This applies to anything, let alone an MR2!

I also plan a stand alone ecu do would have a afm delete? What would be better options? Cheers I think all the common aftermarket ECUs are pure MAP based systems. It's just a simpler way of doing things (no real performance gain unless you're shooting for 400+ bhp). Most will allow you to go for a ...

You can usually find the plugs on eBay. Fairly rare for factors to have stock.

Any old degreaser will do it -- Jizer, Gunk, etc. Followed by water. For more or less spotless, follow with a rag dunked in panel wipe (no smoking, try not to breathe in, well ventilated space, etc.).

Oil wet where?

Threads and top mean one thing (generally cam cover gasket) firing end another (compression test).

Fault code?