www.imoc.co.uk

hi i put an smr reconned engine in mine last summer - done about 5000mile since with lots of 'enthusiastic' driving - not broken yet :thumleft: was that helpful? probably not - engine looked ok while i was fitting it, been cleaned up well and peace of mind that someone had taken it apart and checked...

stock width is 195 front & 225 rear (+13% width to rear)
so the 205 will be closer to original handling traits than 215
(215 will promote oversteer)

cross camber is the difference in camber between the R & L wheels on an axle your figures: (-0°48' FL) - (-0°13' FR) = 0°35' front cross camber (-1°27' RL) - (-1°06' RR) = 0°21' rear cross camber - the smaller the number the better, although some people would set a touch more neg camber on the l...

the ° symbol is degrees the ' symbol is minutes (a 60 unit subdivision of degrees) so you can compare your camber & castor direct to the toy' documents JohnnyC posted. i don't know how to convert the toy' toe measurements to degrees though so you could use the ones i posted (i'm pretty sure they...

stock settings for rev2:

yup

rev2





rev3 (turbo but same difference)

does the OP have rev3? the stud pattern on the head is different

this is rev1/2 manifold

the header section will def fit 3sge ok the sensor in your midsection (beneath intake side of engine block) is your lambda sensor - you need to extend the wiring for this so you can route it around to the other side of the engine to fit it to your new manifold. it sounds like you have the bolt-on ty...

If the good full synths (ie ester based: Redline, Amsoil) cost twice as much as semi but you only have to change them half as often then they work out costing the same to use. You've just gained all the benefits of full synth at no extra cost and half as much work (oil changes). The full synth has s...

full synth of course but why 5w40?

i think it goes into a vacuum valve on the charcoal canister

mine is unplugged (canister setup removed) with no ill effect

I'm going to use semi syn 10w40, unless there's a better grade to use? Gavin 0w30 full synth would be preferred because: the lower the better for the first number to reduce engine wear at startup (but not too low with semi synth, maybe 5 or 10w30 if using semi) toyota specify 30 or 40 for the latte...

diy method: unbolt caliper but leave brake line connected.
Wedge a block of wood between good piston & inside of caliper to stop this one moving.
Wrap a big rag around it all stop brake fluid going everywhere.
Step on the brake pedal - the seized piston will pop out

maybe off the exhaust manifold studs?

the 50 figure is a measure of the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature.

you should use whatever grade maintains correct pressure (approx 10psi per 1000rpm)

lots of info on 'hard' break in here: clicky

the guy puts over a very convincing case, in line with the advice already offered

and they moved the power band up using the cams

gen2 3SGE
In: 244deg, 8.5mm
Ex: 244deg, 8.5mm

gen3 3SGE
In: 252deg, 9.8mm
Ex: 240deg, 8.2mm

@ Azz

yes, i've got some silkolene 20w50 mineral oil off him here to run in my new engine with - bout £13 for 5L

for the benefit of anyone searching for this info in future:

i've just had the box off and both sides do use the same seals 90311-35019

idle control valve check method here:
http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/ ... system.htm

you could also try taking it apart and cleaning the soot out with some solvent (lube the moving parts again after cleaning)