Ok here we go, please don't take this as gospel, it was some years ago i did this mod and i'm only working from my notes, so i recommend you double check all wiring on the Mk1 side with a meter, but it should be correct.

The GTE dash has two plugs, a black and a white one.

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this is how the wires on this dash are joined into the Mk1 dash wiring, i recommend you

"T" in to the original wires instead of cutting, so you can always go back to Mk1 clocks.



That will get everything

"working" except the speedo which i'll cover shortly.

I say working, the readings will be all over the place, but wired correctly.

Oil pressure signal, to get this working properly i found the only way was to fit an Astra GTE oil pressure switch into the engine, luckily it had the same fitting as the Mk1 sender.

Coolant temp, nothing to do here, it works fine from the stock Mk1 sender.

Battery volts, again this just works as it should.

Tacho, works fine from the Mk1 signal.

Fuel gauge, this was a problem child, it took hours to sort because the GTE clocks have such a slow lag on them for damping effect

(to stop the gauge registering all over the place under G forces) but it was sorted in a fashion by extending the Mk1 float arm and bending it to get the correct zero point

(tank empty), there was nothing i could do about the maximum reading, and 3/4 of a tank would register full on the GTE clocks, all it meant was it would sit at max for a long time before starting to drop, but i thought it was important that zero registered correctly.

Here is the float arm extended, crap pictures, taken with state of the art Nokia at the time

I had to bend the bump stop a little so it read lower than normal.

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And the arm extended, this is trial and error i'm afraid, i took no measurements.

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i'm crap i know.

Luckily the sender is easy to pull in and out of the tank when adjusting it.



The speedo head from the Mk1 clocks needs removing and connecting up with its own earth feed and output signal wire, the black wire in this pic is earth and the purple is signal out, if you connect the purple straight to the GTE clocks it will work but will under read by 50%, so we need to send the signal into a Jaycar corrector unit and then onward to the GTE clocks.

Here is the Mk1 speedo head wired up.

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Here is the Jaycar unit, available from Jaycar electronics.

You have to build this yourself, it comes in kit form, so a few hours with a soldering iron.

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This has four wires, earth/power/signal in/signal out.

I stuck mine into an old modem housing

(yes grandkids, modem!) and left the calibration pots visible, left one was tens, right one was units, and there were toggle switches for increasing or decreasing the output reading.



I also stuck the Mk1 speedo head into its own case and left it behind the dash with the Mk1 cable going to it.

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All of the wiring done.

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The dash itself needs a few basic brackets making for it, not hard, and a bit of fibreglassing of the original dash binnacle to get a perfect fit, but otherwise great.

The GTE dash comes with loads of other warning lights, here are some tables of left over pins you may want to include.

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That's about all i can remember folks, it's a great looking dash and well worth the effort.

Here is a link to the Jaycar unit.

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http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... rm=KEYWORD

A bit of work went into this, maybe add it to the KB or sticky or something i don't know.

Woods out.
