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(directly under the handbrake lever), and tried winding in the piston and back out. They believe the caliper needs replacing yet this is the newest caliper on the vehicle: purchased from SBITS and fitted only January 2007!!! 
.. you have to wind it all the way in, then out 180 degrees. If it still isn't auto adjusting properly, wind it back in, then another 20 degrees, then 180 back out again. They get attacked by water apparently. I had to get both sides replaced in two consecutive years 'cos it failed the MOT for that reason.- thank you I'll look into it. 
(The MOT garage are not MR2 specific and maybe don't know what to do?)
Check out my pics:
"piston" yes? The piston has those two indentations on it where I can use a tool on it to wind it in or out? Should the handbrake be on or off for this procedure?"play" with these? Is that the "pin" that attaches the end of the cable to the spring mechanism on the caliper? ](./images/smilies/eusa_wall.gif "Brick wall"){kind=small}
& 3 moves freefly (as I'm sure it should). But the piston does not move. 
dervbas wrote:
How do I know when its wound all the way in? Should the black rubber around it get all caught whilst I'm turning it?
There is no stop point as such and it will turn forever but you will reach a point were the piston is not retracting any further. The handbrake must be completely off. Id advise to disconnect the handbrake cable from the operating arms on the caliper by removing the steel pin. If you dont disconnect the cable then you must slacken the adjustment right off under the centre of the car before starting.dervbas wrote:Pic 2 shows various other springs and nuts: do I need to
NO,the only thing you touch is the piston. You may want to give the spraing and handbrake lever a good blast with wd40 to ensure its free. [/quote]dervbas wrote:Pic 3 shows where the handbrake cable seems to attach to the caliper.
dervbas wrote:Now, when I pull the handbrake the spring mechanism in Pic 2
The piston has not been adjusted. Follow Paul Woods instructions in that thread and your handbrake will work! 
(with the wheels off) both sides were solid. I thought I'd done it! 
The piston obviously just isn't moving enough!What annoys me is this is the newest caliper out of the others bought from SBiTs only January 2007 - could it be broken already? Did you touch the handbrake operating arm by accident on the caliper at all during the adjustment process? I take it you wound the piston inwards enough? You need to take it all the way in so it goes no further and then turn a few more times to make sure its completely retracted. You cannot just turn it back slightly so the caliper goes over the pads. As soon as you wind the piston inwards it loses its adjustment and must be reset. SBiTS are exchanging the whole caliper in warranty so problem will be solved. Thanks Peter. New caliper was put on, brakes bled correctly, and piston adjusted properly as per the Paul Woods article (albeit I didn't adjust the other side that's working fine) and took it for the MOT re-test.Failed again on the same handbrake problem!(edit: see picture below)(the bit that's actually sprung and moves around), which has a pin on the other side of it which goes into the cylinder.toxo wrote:The one that the spring sits around? From memory it just holds the parking brake crank on
That was the problem on mine when mine kept failing. If you can then its possible that your cable is streching. Might be worth putting a new cable on both sides if youve got the money as when i replaced one side it then showed the opposite side up on the rollers but just about passed. try this easier trick save time by winding pistons back etc N.B if only one side is faulty suspect h/cable seized very common. This is the procedure I have used in over 20 yrs working as master tech in Toyota/lexus dealers same proedure for AW11 AE86 Corolla etcphilh wrote:simple
TRY loosening both 10mm nuts at handbrake lever cable end untill handbrake is slack
Start engine for servo assistance pump brake pedal hard as you can for at least ten pumps then re-adjust cable by 10mm nut so h/brake lever comes up 7-10 clicks OR handbrake lever is nearley vertical, you should then have a perfect handbrake operation, if so lock-up second locknut.
JOB DONE
if cables snap that proves cables are past there best and the rubber corrogatted sleeve at end has been damaged allowing water into inner cable, generally cused by people playing winding back pistons ,levering arms tc