Refitting control arms to sub frame

[Rob]

Any tips on getting the bolts through the arm knuckle and located into the captive threads on the sub frame?

I've got the bolts in place through the washer and arm knuckle, just can't get them to bite into the captive thread.

Used a bottle jack to push the knuckle up in place but after a while it just takes the weight of the car up and not the knuckle.

[Peter Gidden]

Control arm will need to be in it's "at rest" position for bolt to line up.

So pull hub out enough for control arm to be lifted to correct angle. Then push bolt in and start by hand. DO NOT use s hammer as you'll damage the threads in the captive nut.

[Rob]

Thanks Peter.

Sub frame is all bolted up and the control arm knuckles located in the sub frame sockets. Track arms are disconnected completely.

The wheel and hub is flopping around so I guess that means the control arm is at rest? No tension appears to be on it.

Weight if car is on axel stands supporting the sub frame.

It's like I need to twist the control arm knuckle rear edge up more into the socket but I can only do that by using the bottle jack and that then ends up lifting the car after a short whilr

[Peter Gidden]

You should be able to pull the hub away from the car enough to lift the control arm to the required angle. No bottle jacks required.

[Rob]

Excellent, that's the one thing I've not tried.

Cheers, its been a long long 10 years since I bought the Poly Bush kit from you and touched the sub frame!

[Rob]

Hi Peter

I tried turning the hub but it just spins on the ball joint and exerts no force on the control arm.

I've got the bolt through the first hole and into the arm knuckle but I now need to twist the arm to the right angle.

Can't see how I can twist the rear of the knuckle into place by pulling the hub away.

Are we talking about the same bit, I'm meaning the chunky arm that holds the ball joint, allows the front arm bar to bolt through it and then goes into the sub frame at the front.

[Peter Gidden]

Hi Peter

I tried turning the hub but it just spins on the ball joint and exerts no force on the control arm.

I've got the bolt through the first hole and into the arm knuckle but I now need to twist the arm to the right angle.

Can't see how I can twist the rear of the knuckle into place by pulling the hub away.

Are we talking about the same bit, I'm meaning the chunky arm that holds the ball joint, allows the front arm bar to bolt through it and then goes into the sub frame at the front.

Fit the strut bar bolt first.

Then hub needs lifting vertically so the control arm can lift to a position where the bolt will engage with the captive nut.

As you lift the arm, it will align itself.

Less than 5 mins work.

[Rob]

Just clarify the strut bar bolt for me please

Thabks

[Peter Gidden]

Just clarify the strut bar bolt for me please

Thabks

The bar that attaches to the control arm and is joined to the car at front of wheel arch.

[Rob]

Thanks, that's all still assembled, I didn't touch that just undid the bolt for the control arm on the sub frame as I am swapping the sub frame out.

No doubt that's what's causing the twisting, will jack it up as you say. Thanks

[MartinF]

You could try a large pair of steilsons(sp?) on the control arm to twist it whilst you push the bolt through.

[Rob]

Success and disaster within 10 mins.

First side worked a treat, second side cross threaded the captive nut in the sub frame.

Anyone know the exact thread & pitch for the captive nut?

[Peter Gidden]

second side cross threaded the captive nut in the sub frame.

Anyone know the exact thread & pitch for the captive nut?

Aaarrgghh! You didn't follow my instructions!

Captive nut, IIRC, is M14 x 1.5. I'll check pitch in the morning.

[Rob]

I did Peter, the first side worked by lifting the hub as you said. I did lightly tap the bolt so that the tapered locator end engaged the captive nut and away it went.

Did the same on the other side but something went wrong and I didn't heed the premature tightening as cross threading

I even put a 10mm drill bit through first to make sure it aligned and it went through perfectly so the tapered end of the bolt should easily have located.

[Peter Gidden]

I did lightly tap the bolt.

Lethal.

Then push bolt in and start by hand. DO NOT use s hammer as you'll damage the threads in the captive nut.

I'll check the thread pitch in the morning.

[Rob]

Fair play, I had that in my mind but was getting nowhere.

That's the difference between a professional and a dick head (me being the latter) !

[Rob]

Hi Peter

If you get a second spare today, could you confirm the details of the captive sub frame thread pitch?

Appreciate you are a busy man though.....

Thanks

Rob

[thomp1983]

Rob if you haven't cross threaded the entire length of the thread then take it to wessex fastners, there in old town, Swindon. They'll measure it for you and if they've got one may possibly loan you a tap. I used to use them for all my fixings the two old boys on the counter know all sorts

[Peter Gidden]

Confirmed as M14 x 1.5.

[Rob]

Rob if you haven't cross threaded the entire length of the thread then take it to wessex fastners, there in old town, Swindon. They'll measure it for you and if they've got one may possibly loan you a tap. I used to use them for all my fixings the two old boys on the counter know all sorts

Oooh - legend, thanks mate!

I shouldn't have bu88ered it all, it got very tight very quick!