Forged Engine Oil Consumption ??

[CRAIGROBBO]

Hi All,

Rev 2 fully forged engine.

I know the forged lumps will use a little more oil than standard but much more?..

Mine has used about 1.2 litres in 600/700 miles.. (Spirited Driving).

There is no smoke when on full boost/throttle.. No smoke when sitting at idle.. No leaks anywhere...

When you first start it up from cold sometimes it has a small amount of blue smoke for 10-20 seconds then it's all clear..

Any advice people?

Cheers Craig

[Peter Gidden]

Crystal ball on the blink...

New engine? Old engine?

Problem always been same? Getting worse?

[CRAIGROBBO]

Engine has covered around 10K since forged build..

I have only owned the car for just over a month, but it has just been in for oil service 4 weeks ago.

Would have to say its the first time it's happened, Will keep an eye on it to see if it get worse etc.

Cheers Craig

[T.F.S.]

1.2l in 600 miles is excessive IMO.

[Driftlimits Performance]

How was it run in?

[CRAIGROBBO]

How was it run in?

I am not 100% sure, i can contact the previuos owner who is a member on here still. "gazrev1tubby"

Side note,

I took the car out yesterday and covered about 80 miles double checking for smoke when on full throttle (I had my dad drive behind me when i was full throttle in all 5 gears and he confirmed not smoke at all).

I checked the oil when i got home and it hasnt moved?... Strange but good!m and will keep a close eye this next few weeks.

Craig

[greeny]

A forged piston engine shouldn't really use any more oil than a standard engine, unless it's been built on the loose side for various reasons.

Even then it should only "use" a very little extra amount over a standard engine on cold starts.

Usually when people go forged they'd typically see a reduction in oil use anyway as usually the old tired standard engine will have developed a little more blow by over the years.

[Baker]

Do you know what grade/brand of oil is in the engine?

[gazrev1tubby]

Just seen this, that does sound a little high Craig?

I bought the long block with about 600 miles on it, that's what I was told. It always puffed a tiny bit of smoke on cold start, but that only lasted for a few seconds, then disappear completely. Two local tuning companies said that it was quite normal for a forged engine, as its to do with the pistons expanding in the bores as they warm up - but as there was no piston slap at all, it was nothing to worry about.

I always used millers 10w 40 synthetic, and found I was topping up around 500 ml, every 1k miles, which I wasn't concerned about.

I hope nothing is wrong with it, I'd be devastated if it was.

Have you checked to see if the plugs are fouled ?

When I had it mapped on the precision turbo, with the power fc, torque developments commented on how strong it sounded, and that it was nice and healthy.

I don't know how it was originally run in, but it didn't do anything abnormal and I took it easy for the first 400 miles after fitting it, starting by not going over 3k rpm for the first 100, then increasing by 1k rpm every 100 miles travelled - of course with no boost, and mineral oil until I'd covered 500 miles, at which point I switched to synthetic and started to introduce boost.

[Kongaroo]

I've run a few forged builds and oil consumption varied a lot between them. The worst 2 were about on par with what you are describing here but otherwise performed well in daily use and made good power.

It is a bit irritating having to top up so frequently but I guess it's just down to how much clearance has been machined to accept the forged pistons so there isn't much you can do about it other than enjoy the extra power you can run now over the stock ones

[cvega666]

my old forged would use some oil, but not that much - mechanics i spoken to (on the forums here) both put it down to blowby when pistons are cold on startup.

[jimGTS]

any running in, you need some boost!
sure, nothing high, and no high revs till later down the line, but you do need to boost it and put it under large vacuum loads also to help seal the rings.

running in with no boost isnt going to help anything

[gazrev1tubby]

Engine braking for vacuum to help seal the rings yes, and that engine certainly didn't blow smoke on engine braking. But I was advised to not use boost until the oil had been changed for synthetic, and until the entire rev range was being used.

Also, when I say 'no boost', I don't mean absolutely no positive pressure - just no 'proper' boost. A few psi is always going to happen, you can't drive off boost constantly as certain road conditions would desire a need to get up to speed quickly, where throttle position would dictate a small amount of spool

[jimGTS]

i was refering to WOT at least to actuator pressures.

all depends on what engine builder advises, but reasonable boost and wot conditions is ideal, just nothing extreme.
everyone has there own way it seems.

[CRAIGROBBO]

Hi All,

Well car has been with GTS-Chris for the past week so has not been used much.

The oil is Toyota Fully Synthetic 5W-30.

It has been noted by Chris when i spoke with him today the engine seams to be using some oil, Slight oil resadue in the exhaust tail pipe etc.

Again once i get it back i will keep an eye on it over the next 1k-2k miles and see what its using.

Cheers Craig

[jimGTS]

for starters i would be running thicker and better quality oil

10w50 or even 15w50 titan pro S, mobile 1 etc.

[Kongaroo]

Yes 5W30 is going to be too thin for a daily driven car. It's more suitable for people that are racing their cars and want to wring all the power they can from the engine by taking advantage of the low viscosity.

I tried Motul 300V 5W30 for a while and found oil usage was very high. I am using a 15W50 fully sythetic now and oil consumption is much reduced.