Hi, got a central locking problem and wondered if I could get some help or advice?
Central locking is intermittent on using the drivers side key, the passenger door rarely locks or unlocks.
I can override this with the switch on the armrest but not after I open the door, only when I turn on the auxillaries on . Is it supposed to work this way or should that switch work all the time?
By the looks of it I'm either looking at a CL relay or CL switch on the drivers side.
Any suggestions? I'd prefer not to take the door card off before I'm sure I know what ot replace or fix.
Central Locking
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Re: Central Locking
It's more than likely the switch on the back of the lock cylinder. Replacements are about £20. I did mine recently, a bit of a fiddly job but not difficult. A word of warning though, if it locks but then decides not to unlock with the central locking, the immobiliser and alarm won't disarm. The switch on the passanger side wears out a lot less as it's used a lot less so you can just lock / unlock from that side.
If you take the doorcard off there's a 3 core cable which runs from the switch (which clips on to the back of the lock cylinder) and has a plug about a foot down the cable. You can cross the terminals in this plug to disarm the alarm and immobiliser. The replacement switch comes with the foot of cable and plug attached. Should take 30 - 45 mins to replace including time to find your way around you're not familiar with what's behind the door card.
If you take the doorcard off there's a 3 core cable which runs from the switch (which clips on to the back of the lock cylinder) and has a plug about a foot down the cable. You can cross the terminals in this plug to disarm the alarm and immobiliser. The replacement switch comes with the foot of cable and plug attached. Should take 30 - 45 mins to replace including time to find your way around you're not familiar with what's behind the door card.
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Excellent
Thats what I thought, and what I've seen from various googlings I've done.
Cant seem to find somewhere to sell me the switch though. Does anyone have the part number ?
Cant seem to find somewhere to sell me the switch though. Does anyone have the part number ?
Re: Central Locking
I haven't got the part number any more but it's the sort of thing only available from Toyota. They were about £20.
Re: Central Locking
Where abouts do you live?
Re: Central Locking
I had the same problem and was told it is often too do with the connections inside the rubber gromit that tells the locking that the door is shut (problems with the interior light not coming on is a tell tale sign apparantly). Mine appeared to be the switch however, and I got over it by having remote central locking installed (about £70) and now works fine.
Good luck with it
Rob
Good luck with it
Rob
Re: Central Locking
drivers side door lock switch
Re: Central Locking
Hey guys, sorry to necro the thread, I have the same problem with my CL - the drivers side stopped locking the car, unlocks if i turn the key and put some pressure on it. Ordered the switch above (29 quid!) but how do i get the old xxxxx out?!!?
*EDIT* got it out with a bit of swearing and shouting. Definately not clicking when the key turns. Oh well
*EDIT* got it out with a bit of swearing and shouting. Definately not clicking when the key turns. Oh well
Current: 2007 Porsche Cayman S
Gone: '94 rev3 NA, '92 rev2 Turbo forged, '07 Civic Type-R
Gone: '94 rev3 NA, '92 rev2 Turbo forged, '07 Civic Type-R
Re: Central Locking
I have a similar issue, thread here with pics that may help...
http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=145156
http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=145156
Re: Central Locking
i had to do exactly the same on my drivers door (replaced the switch)
took me an age to figure out how to move/remove the key barrel enough to get the new one on.
its simple enough really -
1) remove door card
2) get a thin 1/4 inch drive 10mm socket on a 6inch extender
3) remove rubber bung from the inside of the "mating" surface of the door. Its directly behind the key barrel and just pops out
4) with the bung out you can get your socket in the hole and using a torch to guide you undo the two 10mm bolts that are just above the keybarrel
5) now get yourself a 10mm spanner and grow a third triple jointed arm and undo the 10mm bolt on the other side of the handle, about 6 inches to the left of the barrel bolts, same height
6) now from inside and outside, gently lever the entire handle up+ try to gently pop out the bottom clips so from the outside its loose on the bottom half.
7) now you can disconnect the key barrel to lock link arm -move the plastic clip to the left and the link will just pop out
you can now release the key barrel with a bit of fiddling and remove the clip on switch from the back - also remember to undo the multiplug on the end of its cable
9) give the barrell a good soak in thin mineral oil to clean and lube it (might as well while your here) and then clean up up.
10) clip new switch onto lock and start refitting as reverse of above.
all in all, took me 45 mins but be prepared for an awful lot of swearing and the possibility of you losing a bit of blood.
hope this helps
took me an age to figure out how to move/remove the key barrel enough to get the new one on.
its simple enough really -
1) remove door card
2) get a thin 1/4 inch drive 10mm socket on a 6inch extender
3) remove rubber bung from the inside of the "mating" surface of the door. Its directly behind the key barrel and just pops out
4) with the bung out you can get your socket in the hole and using a torch to guide you undo the two 10mm bolts that are just above the keybarrel
5) now get yourself a 10mm spanner and grow a third triple jointed arm and undo the 10mm bolt on the other side of the handle, about 6 inches to the left of the barrel bolts, same height
6) now from inside and outside, gently lever the entire handle up+ try to gently pop out the bottom clips so from the outside its loose on the bottom half.
7) now you can disconnect the key barrel to lock link arm -move the plastic clip to the left and the link will just pop out
you can now release the key barrel with a bit of fiddling and remove the clip on switch from the back - also remember to undo the multiplug on the end of its cable
9) give the barrell a good soak in thin mineral oil to clean and lube it (might as well while your here) and then clean up up.
10) clip new switch onto lock and start refitting as reverse of above.
all in all, took me 45 mins but be prepared for an awful lot of swearing and the possibility of you losing a bit of blood.
hope this helps
Slarty wrote:
it's just that we subscrible to the theory of hitting it harder until it works. Or something falls off, in which case you've hit it too hard.
Re: Central Locking
nice one. let's hope I don't need too, am going to do some investigating tomorrow...