Central Locking

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DrStrangeLug
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:26 am

Central Locking

Post by DrStrangeLug »

Hi, got a central locking problem and wondered if I could get some help or advice?

Central locking is intermittent on using the drivers side key, the passenger door rarely locks or unlocks.

I can override this with the switch on the armrest but not after I open the door, only when I turn on the auxillaries on . Is it supposed to work this way or should that switch work all the time?

By the looks of it I'm either looking at a CL relay or CL switch on the drivers side.

Any suggestions? I'd prefer not to take the door card off before I'm sure I know what ot replace or fix.
ya_crow
Posts: 79
Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 10:01 pm

Re: Central Locking

Post by ya_crow »

It's more than likely the switch on the back of the lock cylinder. Replacements are about £20. I did mine recently, a bit of a fiddly job but not difficult. A word of warning though, if it locks but then decides not to unlock with the central locking, the immobiliser and alarm won't disarm. The switch on the passanger side wears out a lot less as it's used a lot less so you can just lock / unlock from that side.

If you take the doorcard off there's a 3 core cable which runs from the switch (which clips on to the back of the lock cylinder) and has a plug about a foot down the cable. You can cross the terminals in this plug to disarm the alarm and immobiliser. The replacement switch comes with the foot of cable and plug attached. Should take 30 - 45 mins to replace including time to find your way around you're not familiar with what's behind the door card.
DrStrangeLug
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:26 am

Excellent

Post by DrStrangeLug »

Thats what I thought, and what I've seen from various googlings I've done.

Cant seem to find somewhere to sell me the switch though. Does anyone have the part number ?
ya_crow
Posts: 79
Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 10:01 pm

Re: Central Locking

Post by ya_crow »

I haven't got the part number any more but it's the sort of thing only available from Toyota. They were about £20.
ya_crow
Posts: 79
Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 10:01 pm

Re: Central Locking

Post by ya_crow »

Where abouts do you live?
Rob66
Posts: 625
Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2004 10:12 pm
Location: Sussex

Re: Central Locking

Post by Rob66 »

I had the same problem and was told it is often too do with the connections inside the rubber gromit that tells the locking that the door is shut (problems with the interior light not coming on is a tell tale sign apparantly). Mine appeared to be the switch however, and I got over it by having remote central locking installed (about £70) and now works fine.
Good luck with it

Rob
swin
Posts: 168
Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2006 2:06 am
Location: lincolnshire

Re: Central Locking

Post by swin »

drivers side door lock switch

Image
cvega666
Posts: 2616
Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2010 10:43 pm
Location: Cambridge
Contact:

Re: Central Locking

Post by cvega666 »

Hey guys, sorry to necro the thread, I have the same problem with my CL - the drivers side stopped locking the car, unlocks if i turn the key and put some pressure on it. Ordered the switch above (29 quid!) but how do i get the old xxxxx out?!!?

*EDIT* got it out with a bit of swearing and shouting. Definately not clicking when the key turns. Oh well :(
Current: 2007 Porsche Cayman S
Gone: '94 rev3 NA, '92 rev2 Turbo forged, '07 Civic Type-R
riot68
Posts: 1840
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:54 am
Location: Newark, Nottinghamshire
Contact:

Re: Central Locking

Post by riot68 »

I have a similar issue, thread here with pics that may help...

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=145156
g.lewarne
Posts: 1100
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:38 pm
Location: Plymouth

Re: Central Locking

Post by g.lewarne »

i had to do exactly the same on my drivers door (replaced the switch)

took me an age to figure out how to move/remove the key barrel enough to get the new one on.

its simple enough really -

1) remove door card

2) get a thin 1/4 inch drive 10mm socket on a 6inch extender

3) remove rubber bung from the inside of the "mating" surface of the door. Its directly behind the key barrel and just pops out

4) with the bung out you can get your socket in the hole and using a torch to guide you undo the two 10mm bolts that are just above the keybarrel

5) now get yourself a 10mm spanner and grow a third triple jointed arm and undo the 10mm bolt on the other side of the handle, about 6 inches to the left of the barrel bolts, same height

6) now from inside and outside, gently lever the entire handle up+ try to gently pop out the bottom clips so from the outside its loose on the bottom half.

7) now you can disconnect the key barrel to lock link arm -move the plastic clip to the left and the link will just pop out

8) you can now release the key barrel with a bit of fiddling and remove the clip on switch from the back - also remember to undo the multiplug on the end of its cable

9) give the barrell a good soak in thin mineral oil to clean and lube it (might as well while your here) and then clean up up.

10) clip new switch onto lock and start refitting as reverse of above.


all in all, took me 45 mins but be prepared for an awful lot of swearing and the possibility of you losing a bit of blood.

hope this helps
Slarty wrote:
it's just that we subscrible to the theory of hitting it harder until it works. Or something falls off, in which case you've hit it too hard.
riot68
Posts: 1840
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:54 am
Location: Newark, Nottinghamshire
Contact:

Re: Central Locking

Post by riot68 »

nice one. let's hope I don't need too, am going to do some investigating tomorrow...
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