Paul's Rev2 turbo

[craig]

I just try not to think too much about how much I will have spent in the end.

Paul

Oh, I know only too well about the above.

It's only money though.

[Draven]

I just try not to think too much about how much I will have spent in the end.

Paul

Oh, I know only too well about the above.

It's only money though.

Yes it is only money.

[Pauln]

The welding of the boot floor has been tidied up and seam sealer applied all around.


Seam sealer has also been applied to the underside of the boot floor.



Alignment checked, the lower back panel was welded in place and seam sealer applied.



A coat of under-seal was then applied to the underside of the boot floor and the section of the rear panel that will be behind the bumper.



The two rear wings have been filled,



and a start made on blending everything in.



The body shop hope to complete the blending early next week and have the rear end in primer by the end of the week. Then it's a case of giving the primer a week to fully harden before applying the top coat.

I've also asked them to see if they can respray the front lip for me, as this seems to have been painted with a rattle can outdoors at some point, and really lets the rest of the paintwork down.

Unfortunately the previous owner had badly fitted a pair of Lockwood "anniversary style" metal covers to the plastic sill trims, and the nearside one, now removed, had damaged the paintwork through constant rubbing, so I've asked them to tidy this up at the same time.

I would love to have been able to afford a full respray, but on top of everything else that would have just been too expensive, and probably over the top since the rest of the paintwork is in pretty good shape.

So some real progress this week.

Paul

[Pauln]

The first coat of primer has been applied by the body shop





This has been applied fairly heavily and is being left for a week to really harden. It will then be flattened down again to remove some of the remaining blemishes, before a second coat of primer.

The original rev2 spoiler was undamaged in the accident, but was suffering from the usual bubbling on the top surface. So this has also been rubbed down and under-coated ready for a respray.



They've also prepared the passenger sill and front lip ready for a respray.

The paintwork on the top of the passenger sill had been damaged by a badly fitted Lockwood "stick on" metal plate (now removed), and the front lip had been poorly re-painted with a rattle can by a previous owner to presumably to repair stone chip damage to the paintwork. So it seemed sensible to get these two areas re-sprayed at the same time.

So if all goes according to plan it will be time for the top coat the week after next, followed by a bake in the oven. After that it's just a small matter of putting everything back together and getting her through an MOT.

Roll on the end of the month.

Paul

[Pauln]

Not much progress this week. The body shop were due to put the rear of the car into a final coat of primer, but unfortunately the electricians who have been rewiring the workshop haven't made a good job of spreading the load appropriately across the circuits. As a result the body shop can't run all the necessary kit in the spray booth upstairs without risking the circuit tripping out.

So the car has come back down into the workshop for a bit more hardening and fettling, prior to hopefully putting on the final coat of primer next week.



But at least now the masking is off you can get a better idea of how things are being blended in nicely.



The damaged paintwork on the sill (which was unrelated to the accident)



and on the front lip (again unrelated to the accident)



have now been sanded back and primed.

I've also cleaned most of the muck off the stainless parts of my HKS Super Dragger exhaust, and given the ferrous end plates and pipework a coat of Kurust followed by a coat of silver high temperature paint, so that looks a bit better now.



Just needs a good polish of the visible bits next. Still at least the end is in sight. I even renewed my insurance today through AIB for less than £300, which was rather better than the renewal premium of £365 that Sky quoted.

Paul

[Pauln]

Slowly edging toward the day when I finally get the car back from the body shop. The back has now had it's first coat of 202, and is starting to look more like the car I remember.







The boot in particular needs to be flattened down again and a further coat, before moving on to the lacquer stage.

Then it's time to paint the spoiler, reversing light panel and a few other bits and pieces I asked them to freshen up.

In the meantime I've got hold of replacement heat shield for the boot floor, as the original was beyond repair.

These have now been wire brushed, given a couple of coats of kurust, and finally a couple of coats of silver High Temperature paint. I was going to paint these black, but as it's supposed to help keep heat from the exhaust away from the boot I thought the silver would probably be more effective in the short term at least, until they get covered in muck off the roads



Another small step on what seems to have been a hellish long road to get the car back to her former glory following last year's rear end shunt.

But I'm sure it will all be worth it in the end.

Paul

[Pauln]

At last it was time to start putting her back together.

So heat shield, exhaust and impact bar first. As it's not a stock exhaust, couldn't see much point in re-fitting the small exhaust heat shield.






Next the rear bumper and rear light clusters.





Followed by the spoiler.



And finally the triangular reflectors, reversing light panel and a new number plate, followed by a quick polish, to give the final result.







I'm pleased to say she then flew through an MOT with no advisories, and I've brought her home to sort out a few remaining niggles.

Unfortunately the battery did not fair too well during the 7 months she was at the body shop, so I've now purchased and fitted a Halfords HCB005 battery.

I've also replaced both rear quarter light vent panels, as both had seen better days, and given the inside a thorough clean and polish.

I've also had the lock drilled out on the QD fitting for the steering wheel, as the previous owner lost the key. This meant it was impossible to sort out the horn button wiring properly, which had been bodged during fitting of the QD adaptor. So I've now binned that adaptor, rewired the horn button, and fitted a new surround to smarten things up.

Removing the adaptor has also taken the steering wheel further away from the driver and improved the driving position.

I've also replaced the after market boost gauge, as the one fitted to the car when I first bought it didn't seem to match the colour of the oil temp and pressure gauges when illuminated - even though it was supposed to be the same model.

It's just so good to have her back, and with a bit more elbow grease and a few dry days she should be looking better than ever.

I've still got a few goodies to fit:
A new Speedhut Cluster
Chrome door handles
Anniversary Sills
Retractable mirrors

But that can wait for a week or two. For the moment I just get back behind the wheel again and put a smile back on my face.

Paul

[Mullen]

Finally

Not fitting the Autopista after all?

[Pauln]

Yep, it's taken a lot longer than I'd hoped, but it's just so good to have her back.

In the longer term I still hope to fit the Autopista spoiler, as I really think it suits the Rev2. But I'm only part way through repairing it, and have quite a bit of work to do before it's ready for painting.

So rather than hold things up, I asked the body shop to respray and refit the stock spoiler for now.

I also need to sort the na out and put that up for sale first, as the repairs to the Turbo have also cost more than I'd originally budgeted for.

But I really liked the car, and thought she was too good to break. I know I'll never get my money back, but then I've no plans to sell her any way, and summers coming.

Paul

[Gullzter]

Hey Paul, great to see this back on the road in the end
Hope all is well with the car

[Pauln]

Thanks mate. In fact this save was only made possible by guys on here like yourself who helped me out with the bits needed to get her back on the road.

The rear lower panel and boot floor out of your old car were the key, as I was finding it really hard to come up with these.

The later model version of these fitted a treat, and I've now got a rev 2 and a bit, and part of your old car lives on

Paul

[Gullzter]

That nearly brought a tear to my eye

Glad it was sorted for you though, i knew my car was being scrapped as sills and arches were rotten aswell as rust around windscreen but the boot was immaculate as you seen so i knew this would be useful to you

[Pauln]

It's been a busy two and a half months since I finally got the turbo back from the body shop, but sadly things have not gone as well as I had hoped, so I thought it was time for a bit of an update.

Prior to the eight months my turbo was off the road for repairs, it was running a treat, but unfortunately since it's return I seem to have been plagued with a series of minor issues, some of which are still outstanding.

First the battery gave up the ghost, and had to be replaced. Unfortunately I don't think the body shop kept it charged, and just gave it a quick boost whenever they needed to move the car.

Then the reversing light switch packed up and had to be replaced.

But far worse was to come. The idle speed suddenly became very erratic. Initially the idle was very slow and the car often cut out when I stopped at junctions, but fortunately restarted without any problem. So I thought I'd whip a plug out to check, unfortunately as I pulled the Magnicor plug lead off by it's "handle", it promptly fell apart. Plugs were fine though .

New TRD leads obtained and fitted, I checked and adjusted the setting of the screw on the afm to match the figure stamped on the body. I then to check the TPS and noticed the throttle cable was so tight it wasn't actually resting on the end stop.

Having adjusted this to gain some slack, I checked the resistances of the TPS were within spec, and there were no major drop outs on the sweep, and then pulled out the feeler gauges and set it up according to the manual. Finally, having bridged out the terminals in the diagnostic port I adjusted the screw on the throttle body (it's a rev 2) and managed to get a fairly steady 800rpm idle speed when warm.

Sadly my apparent success was short lived.

A week or so later, for no apparent reason, the idle speed shot up to around 1800 when cold, and wouldn't drop below 1200 when warm. Which seemed to indicate that the ICV was probably in need of a clean. As I didn't want the car to be off the road for more than was absolutely necessary, I obtained a s/h rev 2 throttle body so that I could take my time cleaning this up prior to swapping them over.

Unfortunately before I could do that, one day shortly after leaving home, the engine management warning light came on for a few minutes then slowly started to fade out. I immediately returned home and took the na instead.

Later when I got back home I tried to check for stored error codes, but found that the engine management warning light just kept flickering and fading in and out.

Markstevieandmads' suggestion that this was probably due to leaking capacitors in the ECU advice, proved to be correct. Sure enough two capacitors had leaked badly, and damaged a number of adjacent pcb tracks.

I managed to find a replacement rev 2 ECU through the forums, which was lucky as Rev 2 ECUs seem to be fairly rare. Unfortunately when I opened it up to check for leaking capacitors I found one the two capacitors that seem prone to this had in fact started to leak, but the good news was that I'd caught the problem early and there was no sign of any damage to the adjacent pcb tracks.

Whilst there was no reason to believe there was any immediate problem with the replacement ECU, I decided to change capacitors C810,



and C512 as a preventative measure, rather than wait until they became an issue.



Following a quick coat of PCB lacquer for a bit of protection, the replacement ECU was fitted and the engine management warning light issue sorted.

Unfortunately the same could not be said for the high idle speed.

Having obtained a replacement rev 2 throttle body, I stripped it and gave everything a thorough clean, including the ICV. The operation of the ICV was checked with a 12v supply, and I also checked that the resistances were within spec, and that a 12v supply was present on the middle pin of the plug on the car.



The TPS was also checked and adjusted, so much easier than when it's on the car.



New gaskets were obtained from MR T and the throttle bodies swapped over.

Having removed the old throttle body, you could see that it was clearly pretty mucky...



But sadly swapping this for a nice clean one didn't solve the high idle speed.

That said, the idle speed was much more steady than it was previously, but at around 1,100 revs with a warm engine it was a long way off the book value of 800 rpm.

Prior to the car being taken off the road, I'd started renewing all the vac pipes, so I've now order some more tubing from SRS and will finish that job off shortly so that I will at least know it's not a perished vac pipe somewhere that's causing the problem.

But other than that I'm rapidly running out of ideas about what it could be.

I've also had to spend time trying to sort out a running problem with my NA so that I could put it up for sale, and get a bit of cash back in the kitty. This was finally traced back to a faulty ECU, and with the NA ECU replaced, it's now found a new home with a forum member in the Oxford area. So some good news, but was a bit galling that that my old NA had a rock steady 800rpm idle when I sold it.

Paul

[Pauln]

Time for a more positive update. Despite the time spend trying to unsuccessfully sort out the isle issues on my turbo, some progress has been made elsewhere.

I've fitted a replacement speed cluster that I assembled whilst the car was off the road.



This sports a set of white Speedhut dials with blue "glow" legends, white led back light and warning lights (other than the low fuel warning lamp), "chrome" dial rings, and a Stef delimiter. The useless stock "boost" gauge has also been swapped for a more useful voltmeter from an na, and the cluster modified as accordingly.

Whilst at first glance this only appears to be a subtle visual upgrade, unlike the blue led backlit Lockwood gauges fitted to the car when I bought, which didn't perform well around dusk and at night the needles vanished, you can actually read the Speedhut gauges clearly in the day, at night, and everything in between. Which I personally think is kind of important.



The cluster actually looks better than in the photo, but the white leds used for back light are actually a bit too bright creating too much spill onto the dial faces at night, so I have obtained a selection of alternative LEDs to play around with at some point.

I've also replaced the cigarette lighter, as the original was cracked with the led light held in place on a wing and a prayer. Whilst I was laying in a fused feed for the "new" Speedhut dials, I also took the opportunity to do some more rewiring, including fitting the correct plug for the OEM rear fog light switch, rather than using ill fitting spade connectors. I've also fitted the folding mirror relay ready for changing over the door looms and replacing the mirrors later in the year.

Finally in terms of the interior I've refitted the Sparco Pro 2000 seat and harness which I had previously removed when the future of my turbo was uncertain, but have changed the steel side mounts to alloy ones.



As well as being lighter, these have a different profile and bend inwards at the bottom (most others seem to bend out), which provides better clearance for the inboard floor mounted eye for the harness lap strap.



I'm afraid I couldn't get a decent photo of this as it's difficult to get the camera in there, but hopefully you can see what I mean.

In the engine bay, I've I've fitted a Cusco Brace acquired some time back, having first given the end brackets a lick of paint. I've also finished replacing all the readily accessible vac hoses with blue silicone hoses from SFS.



This just leaves the black pipe work from the AFM to the turbo and BOV. Unfortunately SFS are unable to supply this hose, so I'd have to obtain one from Samco and I'm not sure how close a match the colour would be.

In the boot I've added a second oem style light on the offside and fitted leds to both to improve illumination at night. I decided against the usual mod of fitting a full width led strip as I wanted a more OEM look and just wanted to get a bit more light in the offside boot area.



Finally I've fitted a reversing camera on the number plate.



This is controlled by the reversing light circuit and uses a radio transmitter in the boot to automatically link to my Garmin Sat Nav when reverse gear is selected.



When I first powered this up I was puzzled as to why the number plate on the car behind was reversed, but then the penny dropped. The image is flipped horizontally to imitate a rear view mirror, ie. the curb remains on the same side to avoid confusion.

As I still can't get the idle speed down below around 1100rpm when engine is warmed up with the cleaned up replacement throttle body, I'm wondering if this is just because it's a bit worn and air is getting past the butterfly even when it's closed.

So I think I'll give my "old" throttle body a thorough clean and check this over to see if it looks as though it seals better when the throttle is closed. At least I know with my old throttle body I did see an 800rpm idle briefly at one point, and having now changed the body over once, in theory it should be easier the second time

Paul

[Pauln]

After cleaning up my old throttle body the butterfly valve did indeed appear to be a better fit when the throttle is closed.

I therefore checked the operation of both the TPS and ICV, and setup the TPS according to the book having fitted stainless socket head bolts rather then the horrible oem cross head screws. I also adjusted the ICV to get the best seal when fully closed.

The original throttle body was then refitted to the car with new gaskets.

Unfortunately the idle, whilst pretty steady now, remains unchanged at round 1100 rpm. I finally managed to adjust the idle up valve so that it raises idle by a couple of hundred revs, and whilst I was at it tried pinching the vac pipe running from it to the throttle housing when in theory that valve is closed. No change to idle speed, so that probably rules out a leaky idle up valve.

Whilst changing the throttle bodies over I also noticed a vac pipe under the throttle body I'd missed previously. So that too has now been changed for new silicone vac house.

I've also replaced the VTV as this had gone brittle and the purple end unfortunately broke off when I tried to replace the hoses connected to it. I've noticed in various threads that it always seems to be the purple side that breaks. Even the parts man at my local Toyota dealer was surprised how expensive these are.

Not sure what to try next to lower the idle speed, but an IMOC member has kindly offered to lend me his ODB dongle later this month, so I'm hoping the readout may offer some clues as to what the problem is. At the very least it should give me a more accurate readout of my current Idle speed and show how accurate the tach actually is. I'll also be interested to see what the coolant temperature is when fully warmed up, as I did wonder about changing the ECU temp sensor.

I even asked the parts man at Toyota how much this would cost having explained which sensor I was talking about and given him my registration. He came back with two diagrams, one for the NA and another for the turbo. I said it was the turbo one and pointed to it on the relevant diagram. So he then went away, only to come back saying the parts programme refused to let him query that part because it wasn't applicable to my car. I did offer to show it to him on the car, but he just shrugged his shoulders.

Bring back the good old days when you just gave him the part number and he'd order it for you. So now I just have to hope there's nothing wrong with that sender as it's going to be tricky trying to order one.

Paul

[thomp1983]

Dongle arrived back yesterday paul ill post it tomorrow and hopefully you'll have it Saturday

[Pauln]

That's bril. I've downloaded the app to my phone so all ready to go.

Many thanks

[markstevieandmads]

Your more than welcome to try my dongle on your motor if you want to make the trip to Swindon.

[Pauln]

Thanks for the offer Mark, but as Chris has kindly offered to lend me his and pop it in the post tomorrow that will give me a bit more time to try and get to the bottom of things.

Paul

[Pauln]

Well what a great little gadget the dongle is.

Before connecting the dongle up I replaced the distributor cap and rotor with genuine Toyota items - so that's plugs, leads dizzy cap and rotor recently changed.

I then had a quick play with the Dongle, thanks Chris, before the thunderstorms came through, and it looks as though the tach in the dash is over reading by around 400rpm at both idle and 2000 rpm (as shown on dash).

In fact according to the readout from the dongle when fully warmed up the car is actually idling between 775 - 800 rpm. I may try adjusting the throttle screw tomorrow to see if I can steady this up, but either way I'm not too concerned. That's close enough for me.

When fully warmed up she also seems to settle at 86 C, which from what I can gather in other posts isn't too far off the mark, with timing at idle showing as 14.2 BTDC, but that's without bridging E1 and TE1 and E1 so presumably just shows its within the operating range.

So it looks as though all is as it should be

Paul