So, like the rest of the world, I'm staying home as we speak due to the corona
virus crisis.
However, it has given me plenty of time to get tonnes of smaller,
and larger jobs I had listed on the car done.
And in the process of doing more.
The first I wanted to tackle was re-routing the launch control switch from a
switch quickly installed just off the Link ECU in the boot, during the mapping
session.
Through the car onto the dash.
Amazon as always has been great service during this time, and within a couple
of days of ordering, received 20mts of simple automotive 12v wire.
At first, I thought about running it through a hole in the engine bay wall, into
the bay, and then trying to find a tidy route.
Started removing the passenger bucket seat
& trim panels on the left side of
the car.
However during this time, I had posted on
"MR2 Owners" on FB asking the best
route to run the wire, Someone suggested to run it through the arch from the
boot and miss the bay entirely.
This turned out to be pretty much how I did it,
but with a little bit of the bay to save drilling a hole into the car.
I either, ran it through the left side arch, past the fuel filler neck and then drilled a hole
into the single skin that allowed passage into the cabin.
Or ran
the arch, then took a turn into the left side air vent seal, and then a short
distance for about 15cm.
Where I can then join the main engine loom and run
along with that through the large grommet in the bay and straight to the dash.
https://imgur.com/zUw3ZTD
The latter option is the one I went for, and glad I did.
made it much easier.
A cane of bamboo came in handy here, making running the wire through the
arch, really easy.
I also made sure, wherever there was the potential for the wire fouling on
anything, that I wrapped this in multiple layers of electrical tape to protect.
As mentioned, I then followed the loom, managing to get into the loom shroud
and straight up to the dash, also tidying existing wires as I went.
Once the wire was routed in under the arm rest and under the dash plastics.
I then checked the position I wanted the switch.
Here would be ideal, and where I finally picked.
the only problem being the
actual dash behind and the clearance needed, I checked as best as possible.
And found it would be ok, but may need the tabs on the switch bent down a
little.
And here is the switch fitted and showing how it works
( VIDEO LINK
)
https://imgur.com/1jh0NVO
I'm not one for tacky or gimmicky stuff, I prefer the classier approach.
But for something so cool as a
"Launch Control Switch" you have to have a
OTT switch.
Before refitting everything, I thought it best to check the switch worked.
All good, it switched between activating the 2 step LC, mapped into the Link G4
and then again deactivating, allowing you to rev to the limiter freely.
The spade connectors and wire I used to do so, then came in handy to check
the clearance issue I though I would have.
As you can see, by being bent down, its touching, but not causing any issues.
And does not make the dash trim sit awkward at all.
So I then made new
connectors and finished the job.
During fitting the dash trims back, I removed the cheap cup holder and tray
and replaced with a Toyota panel it originally ran.
I intend to get a double din
touch radio as it really smartens and brings up the interior.
But for now this is
better.
Also, the plastics are painted to replicate piano black you get in modern cars,
however they could do with painting better, I'm intending to get a triple gauge
( 52mm
) centre panel, along with gauges.
So will wait until then to do so.
But here it is.
Haha, tbh I think this is only the second time I have machine polished it
