









if you've taken offence to my questioning then i do apologise.





for the record, i've been on this list as a mr2 owner for 5 years.



Moderators: IMOC Moderators, IMOC Committee Members
i'm also sure there is a large number of people out there who have used the standard wind back method and had no problems.![]()
neither am i the type of person that accepts things just because someone on here says it without explaining why.
i'm sure there are people out there with a incorrectly functioning handbrake because they've just wound the pads back in
i'm also sure there is a large number of people out there who have used the standard wind back method and had no problems
Paul Woods wrote:oh for the love of god!
i havent taken exception to your questioning,it was calling me a bloody scaremonger that offended when i was perfectly right all along!
i gave you a perfect description of how to do it properly many posts ago(as have others) without having to drag me over the coals.
i'm also sure there is a large number of people out there who have used the standard wind back method and had no problems.![]()
this isnt a METHOD at all,its just the WRONG way to do it..
.
.
.and i never once said that anyone who hadnt used my method should go out and strip their rear brakes down,you are implying something i havent even said.
Even if they did redo the calipers to make sure they were right..
.
.why is that a bad thing??? isnt it better to have them working 100% than not at all?
neither am i the type of person that accepts things just because someone on here says it without explaining why.
you're not kidding..
.
.
As ive said before,this isnt a hobby,im not just a car enthusiast,i work on mr2's for a living..
.
.and anything new that i find out while doing my job i share on the forums,i dont have to do that and i will be taking a back seat when it comes to giving advice from now on,i cant be bothered with the hassle of having to explain each and everytime someone doesnt understand why it should be done that way,ive been an Imoc member since 98 and in that time seen hundreds of ill advised posts on rear brake adjustment
(among other things) and said nothing so as not to appear argumentative.
.
.
.you made it very clear two pages ago that i was talking nonsense and that my way of doing it was wrong,even after i went into specific detail on how the internal mechanism works you still had issue with me
(and other members testaments that this is how its done).
.
.
.
.you can keep your half hearted
"if you've taken offence" apology mate
,you insulted me by calling me a scaremonger.
.
.
.
.well i wont be
"scaremongering" anymore on this forum so theres nothing for you to worry about.
but hey what do i care,i wont be advising in future.![]()
JJ wrote:but hey what do i care,i wont be advising in future.![]()
Lower, perhaps lighten up on the thorough nit picking.
.
its not required and not board friendly.
![]()
This thread is spiralling into frustration between you both over what
???
a daft mechanism
?
You show hostility within your words for a simple correction
/ challenge to the discussion.
![]()
Rise as you will, however your only showing yourself up.
regards.
the shrink.![]()
![]()
But the piston, when turned anti-clockwise- starts coming out straight away
crazylegs wrote:bottom line here is do you want your brakes to work? if so use pauls method it works EVERY time.
if you think you know better than a man who has forgotten more than i will ever know try a different method
.it might work, it might leave you with crap or no hand brake.
Paul Woods wrote:ah ha!! thats just it johnny! it doesnt! even when you wind it all the way back,if you wind it back out 180,caliper wont fit over pads,so you take it back in 180 plus another 20 or 30 degrees..
.now i know the piston wont go back any further but it now wont start coming back out until you have passed the extra 20 or 30 degrees you gave it.