The journey of one man and his Mule(s)

[Magic Beans]

In a bid to not need to spend 1000 hours writing up massively late thread updates, I'll push on and make them a little more incremental.

While the SC project is one for next year, I did spend some time at the farm and used that as an opportunity to at least chip away at things. The initial goal was to strip the car back as far as it needs to go in order to the welding done, so that's what I did.

I'd already removed some of the panels and had a bit of a head start on the day.



Next up was pulling the dash, seats and everything that got in my way. Which then left me with the fun job of removing the doors, starting with the door cards and wiring looms. I have loads of photos but most are simply to give me some clue of how I'll eventually put this thing back together





Then the doors.







I'll remove the boot and engine lids next time we're up there, leaving it pretty much ready.

The other fun job was removing the remaining sound deadening from the passenger side floor. I loved this. It definitely didn't make my hands, back and ears very unhappy









The very last piece did come off in a satisfying chunk, which was at least a pleasing way to end the process. The next step will be to strip back the residual glue etc, leaving a fresh surface for patching and prep.

SW wise: there's only a small update, as right now I'm waiting for a session at the tuner next month. Until then I can't really use the car, so all I can do is prep for the day and cover off a few snagging items.

ECU wise I picked up a Wolf v550. It's not quite on par with the ultra modern offerings but was a great price, is much more functional than a now ancient Apexi Power FC etc and has as all the things I'll realistically need to achieve my goals for the car. I did test fit it to make sure it worked. It came from a Rev3+ engined Corolla and had a map on it that would at least act as a base for them to start from. The good news being the car fired up and idled, for the 10 seconds I tested it for at least.



Another job was to act on my decision to remove the old and tatty rear grille





I didn't take an after photo or some reason. You can see the results on the rear shot in my Mk1.5 update.

Also, after years of loyal service I decided to give Patrick a refresh. His lettering had all but faded away after years of use, which was remedied with a The Repair Shop style Sharpie go-over. A sympathetic restoration if you will



Next steps on the SW are to mount the replacement rear coilovers I've bought, in place of the leaky NS Tein. Then I'll be focusing on the repairing the lacquer issues it has in several areas. I did think it needed a full respray but after assessing it I don't think it's too bad overall. This car might actually be complete by spring!

[ayresyboy]

Welcome to the church!

Andy

[Ryan S]

Good to see dude! I need to start making some effort with mine. Prices of JDM turbos are insane at the moment!

[JAAASH]

Just caught up with this since July/Aug. You've been busy!
Lots of work cut out for you with the SC! Looking forward to see you work your way through it though. The 1.5 looks like a lot of fun!

With regard to your speedo issue, I am having the same problem with mine, albeit an electronic speedo, but I'd checked everything and still no joy. It wasn't until I removed the speedo drive and actually looked inside the gearbox, which revealed my issue. The speedo ring on the diff has broken and is just rattling around in there Might be worth checking on yours if you've eliminated everything else.

Josh! Good to hear from you

Hopefully we'll get another update on yours soon, eh

Umm I'll get around to it eventually. It's soo far behind now that it's going to take me hours

[Magic Beans]

Apologies for the late reply; we've just got back from crusing around North Carolina, South Carolina and Georgia. We had quite a choice of options when we picked up the hire car, with a Chrysler 300S and a big ass Ford F150 being the two most appealing options on the day. We opted for the 300S because a) V8, and b) despite the F150 being the size of a small moon, we'd have had to chuck the cases on the back seats. We weren't planning on hauling any hogs or lumber while we were there, so that big 'ol flatbed wasn't really needed.

Good to see dude! I need to start making some effort with mine. Prices of JDM turbos are insane at the moment!

They're definitely getting to a point, aren't they. To be honest, good examples should command a premium.

I'll keep an eye out for that update in your thread soon then

Just caught up with this since July/Aug. You've been busy!
Lots of work cut out for you with the SC! Looking forward to see you work your way through it though. The 1.5 looks like a lot of fun!

With regard to your speedo issue, I am having the same problem with mine, albeit an electronic speedo, but I'd checked everything and still no joy. It wasn't until I removed the speedo drive and actually looked inside the gearbox, which revealed my issue. The speedo ring on the diff has broken and is just rattling around in there Might be worth checking on yours if you've eliminated everything else.

Josh! Good to hear from you

Hopefully we'll get another update on yours soon, eh

Umm I'll get around to it eventually. It's soo far behind now that it's going to take me hours

Definitely been busy. Most of it feeling like treacle-wading though. If I can just finish snagging the 1.5 it'll be quite a thing. The SW just needs to get through the mapping session (mid October), the rest is just cosmetic and installing the coilovers I already have ready to go. Once they're both sorted I'll have a clear run at the SC, assuming everything goes to plan

Update wise: It's definitely going to be a chore to do. I'd like to see how the car's doing now. Which is motivation enough to do it, right?

[jimi]

Regarding your 1.5 headlights, if they don't come up, if you haven't already done it, check the 7.5A RTR and the 30A RTR MTR fuses, both in RB #5 (front boot fusebox) either or both will stop the headlights from coming up.
You can if necessary wind them up/down by hand

[Magic Beans]

Regarding your 1.5 headlights, if they don't come up, if you haven't already done it, check the 7.5A RTR and the 30A RTR MTR fuses, both in RB #5 (front boot fusebox) either or both will stop the headlights from coming up.
You can if necessary wind them up/down by hand

Thanks for the suggestions

I've manually wound the lights up and tested them and double-checked they don't light up: They don't. I also swapped the 7.5A and 30A fuses around with known working items and it made no difference. Interestingly, the full beam indicator light in the cluster doesn't illuminate up when I pull the stork to flash. I'm not sure if that is a tell-tale sign that it's a cabin side issue such as broken wiring?

I don't have a spare relay to hand, I'll need to grab one off the SC when I'm next up there in a couple of weeks. Beyond that I'll also grab the switch unit, in case that's the cause. Hell, I might as well grab the whole dash section and all the fuses while I'm at it, given it's already out of the car!

[jimi]

So they don't pop up or light up ? What year is it ? the retract control relays have different versions (mostly due to dim/dip. Your relay will either be gray(1a) or black (1b) a crossover car could be either, can't remember if they are interchangeable I have a vague feeling they aren't. Not sure if SC relays are interchangeable but I'll check.
If it's a 1b then you have the dim/dip relays in the equation as well, IIRC there's two relays both green, one you can see easily one you can't.
I take it they were working at some stage, worth checking the plug is in the headlight switch properly and no pins have been pushed back.

[Magic Beans]

So they don't pop up or light up ? What year is it ? the retract control relays have different versions (mostly due to dim/dip. Your relay will either be gray(1a) or black (1b) a crossover car could be either, can't remember if they are interchangeable I have a vague feeling they aren't. Not sure if SC relays are interchangeable but I'll check.
If it's a 1b then you have the dim/dip relays in the equation as well, IIRC there's two relays both green, one you can see easily one you can't.
I take it they were working at some stage, worth checking the plug is in the headlight switch properly and no pins have been pushed back.

So they don't pop up or light up ? Correct. Confirmed last night by manually winding them up

What year is it? It's an '87. The SC is an '88

The pop-up control relay/modules are the same colour (black) on the SC and 1.5. I did bring it home and try it after our last trip up to the farm. Alas, it didn't make any difference when swapped.

Based on the below I've checked:

- 85916 (bottom image) - Removed, checked, cleaned and reinstalled. I'll swap it with the one from the SC to double-check it. I can hear it click when I switch on the main beams.
- 85916 (top image) - I didn't realise this was a light relay?! I'll look to check this and swap it with the one from the SC
- 85969 (top image) - As above. I'm not even sure where it#s located?!



I take it they were working at some stage: They were. I'm pretty sure this is the result of me pulling the cluster etc, while chasing the issue with the speedo drive. All connectors have been triple-checked pins etc wise. The only thing I did spot was that there was an extra wire with a buttlet connector on the end which had been spliced into a wire (green and black I believe?!) going into the headlight switch. I checked everywhere and couldn't find where it might have connected to. There were no other connectors visible, with me pulling the pod etc out to check. Plus, logically it shouldn't impact the ability for the core wiring harness to work surely? It must be/have been for an accessory?!

[jimi]

1987 may or may not have dim/dip, black relay usually means dim/dip.

If the extra wire with a bullet connector is Green/Black then it's to do with the indicator/Haz lights, possibly something to do with a aftermarket alarm system (flash indicators on arming?).

The headlight relay puts power to both beams (main/dip) it energises when the light switch is on, depending on the year that could be 2nd switch position or 3rd or both 2 & 3. Also energises when the headlights are flashed (when the switch is off) It shouldn't click when switching dip ->main or vice versa. The dip/main switching is purely through the switch.

There's a connector halfway down the steering column (just behind the bottom edge of the dash above the column) check that's OK, I've had one with a pin pushed back and not making contact.

I'm Not sure about those EPC images, I don't think they are accurate for a UK MK1.
In case you don't have them, I've put the UK MK1 Electrical drawings on my website so you can download them here LINKY they are 1a based but other than dim/dip and some minor differences they have proved (to me) to be pretty accurate for 1b's as well.
Hopefully they will be of some use to you

[Magic Beans]

Really useful information, thank you

I'm moving it up to the farm in a couple of weeks. Once there I'll pull the dash again and methodically work through fuses, relays etc, to see if it's any of those that have failed. Beyond that I'll delve deeper and check all the wiring elements, in case somethinh has rattled loose, or whether the hell has happened?!

Logically it should only be one of tthe following things:

1) I've popped a fuse/relay when removing the cluster pods and surrounding switches
2) The switch itself has failed. The pins on the things I've checked were all in good shape
3) The wiring has split somewhere. Either a dodgy splice deeper into the loom (I've only seen one splice. It's been clean overall so far) or a break from age/fatigue

All I do know is that they worked when it was MOT'd. After which I removed the cluster pod to look at identifying why the speedo had stopped working. The lights then didn't work when I tried them a few weeks later. It's something I've done but after going back over the steps I'd taken, I can't see anyt reason why

In other news: Welding on the SC has been agreed. Start date is yet to be confirmed, likely into the new year. There's no rush right now though, I've got two other cars to button up and a house move to sort.

[jimi]

Sounds very much like you have done something. If you use the diagrams and work from the fuses onwards you should find the problem
IIRC there's also a fault that happens in a junction box behind the dash which affects an earth return path I Can't remember what circuits it affects and may be a red herring. I have notes on it , just got to find them I'll post up once I find the relevant notes.
Jimi

[Magic Beans]

I've definitely done a thing

Anything you have would be appareciated, thanks

I've got Sunday marked in the diary as a day to work on the cars. Primarily fitting the new rear coilovers on the SW but I'll turn the Eye of Sauron towards the 1.5 once that's done.

[jimi]

This is the junction box (J/B No 3 I was referring to



All the headlight wiring passes through this box, some people have had problems with burnt connections, slack plugs at this box, even seen pics of it melted. If you look on page 8-2 of the UK diagrams you can see that the headlight connections pass through it (the ones marked 3 and a letter i.e. 3A) Faults in this box can can affect many different circuits.
It's pretty awkward to get at, above the pedals behind the dash.
If your other checks don't uncover the problem it would be worth checking this box.

FYI
For pictures of just about everything MK1 related check this guys galleries out they superb and invaluable to any MK1 owner LINKY

Jimi

[Magic Beans]

Thanks, Jimi. I really appreciate the information you've shared

I'll try and get some time on it tomorrow. Beyond that it will be Sunday.

[jimi]

No problem, always glad to help if I can

[pistol pete]

top work.. hopefully you get it sorted.. you do like to create extra work

[Magic Beans]

you do like to create extra work

I really don't it just finds me, especially with the 1.5

Once the last few snagging bits are sorted it will be perfect, as fundamentally it's a very good car. I'm just picking up the results of it likely being stored for a while before I got it and a few original rebuild niggles. I can't wait to do the same with the SC

Some good news: Mule X is booked in for mapping on November 2nd. I could have got an earlier appointment but it kept clashing with work and travel plans.

[Magic Beans]

Last week's plans didn't materialise, with focus being on prepping the house for sale (photos and floorplans are being done today), the going to the farm for the weekend. As such I didn't get to swap the SW's coilovers, which I'll now look to do this week.

While I've not been able to do much here I have got more lined up for the next steps. Car wise we worked through plans for converting some of the stables, giving us room to dry park/store four cars, high-level plans for the workshop space and outdoor parking for the dailies.

With the time I had available I focused on pulling the remaining body parts off that needed to be removed, to get the car ready for welding in the coming weeks/month.







The only things left are the front and rear screens. I'm going to leave those for now, as I'm concerned they'll get destroyed in the removal process and during storage. They're fine in situ for now.

I'm keen to get it running or so many reasons, with one being that I'm really curious to see how much power it's making. Reading the magazine article I found which featured the car, it's suggested that it's somewhere north of 185bhp, maybe even 200bhp. I take that with a pinch of salt but there's definitely supporting mods installed, as you'll see below













I also got some time to pull the light-related fuses, relays and switch out, which I brought home to try in the 1.5. I swapped the fuses and relays in the frunk, along with the light switch in the cabin, testing each as I went along. Unfortunately the issue persists and I'm now going to need to pull the dash and delve into the wiring

I'm still struggling to understand why I hear the relay click when I turn the switch to the main beams but the lights don't come on. This suggests the circuit up to and somewhat beyond the relay is working as intended and it's something with the lights and motors. Which itself makes no sense, unless somehow there's a break in the loom after the fusebox?! This stuff will haunt your dreams if you let it!

[Magic Beans]

Minor updates this week. Some good and some, well... business as usual... I'm trying to keep it more frequent, to avoid having the multi-hour typing marathon when trying to catch up. The PTSD is real!

Let's get the challenging bits out of the way first so we can end on a positive note: The Mk1.5, specifically the headlights...

I've spent some time chasing ghosts again and so far I've got nowhere really. I did or observed the following:

* Pulled the cluster and some of the dash out, to check for loose or broken connections etc - All looks ok, to my eye at least
* Cleaned the components (fuses, relays and terminals) with contact cleaner, as they might have had an excess of grease in them - No difference
* Replaced the above with known-working items - No difference
* Tested the lights using just the flasher on the storks - The relay clicks in he frunk but the mains don't come on. Which is the same action as when I turn the headlight switch
* The side lights work as expected in all tests

I'm fairly sure the issue isn't in the cabin, it's in the frunk area. I'm wondering if I've popped a fuse or relay in there that I'm not aware of?! However, in a bid to move forwards I'm now looking for a local auto electrician, which was Pete's suggestion. I always forget that there are professionals out there who can fix these types of things, I don't need to do it all myself! Hopefully the next update will be after that process and we'll finally have some good news

It currently looking like this:



In readiness for the mapping session next month, I wanted to make sure everything ECU-related within my control was done. The bit that had been nagging at me was whether or not the mapper would have the software to use and a data lead that could speak to the ECU. He assured me it should be ok, but we all know I've had my share of obstacles with these cars...

To make sure I was covered I've sourced the Wolf EMS software, which was a bit of a pain but I did find, along with the legacy .NET packages it required. Once installed I tested it and everything ran as expected: a good start! The next step was sourcing a data lead to link a/my laptop to the v550. It required a serial connection, which as we all know, if a bit retro now After some research I found a serial to USB cable which was compatible with Windows 10/11 and is known to work with the Wolf ECUs. I ordered it and this landed on our doorstep the next day:



Later that day I headed out and linked everything up for some tests. Once I've assigned the relevant COM port to it in the software I turned the ignition and tried to connect. This was what I saw:



followed by...



Win! So now I know the ECU works, the data lead works, I have the software working on a laptop, as well as a USB stick with the software and required .NET packages on. It might be OTT prep wise but I really REALLY didn't want to finally get my slot and have it wasted due to issues I could have prevented. I'll be doing some more readiness checks on the car before it goes, as well as giving it a fresh tank of fuel on the day.