Right then, update time

As the good lady has been away quite a lot I've had plenty of time to squirrel around in the garage and tinker with the Westy.

That and getting fed and watered at other people's houses, like a human Littlest Hobo



Amongst tackling a sea of little jobs I've been spending some time making observations of many of the little anomalies I've found.

Some straight forward others more bizarre.

So, in no particular, here's a list of what's done, what's found and what needs doing:

There's something really weird going on with the LTE Digi Dash as readings from the various sensors don't make any sense.

Oil pressures are out massively, however it's the wrong sensor fitted so that's easily rectified.

The dash reads as being 12.3v when fired up and idling, a voltmeter on the battery reads 14v

Coolant temps with the engine fired up and idling could be say 90 degrees, however if you turn the lights on they go up to 105 or so.

The same happens if up turns the rad fan on

My first thoughts were it could be dodgy grounding, so I pulled them, created a nice clean grounding point and reattached, with the same results?! I'm not exactly sure what's causing it, it's likely something simple but I need to work out what and where.

Speaking of the dash, I spent a little time adjusting the various parameters on it to alter the alarm thresholds and other bits.

When I have all the sensors I need I'll do a full sweep on it but these will do for now as when it alarms you can't see any other readings from the dash





Water temp alarm was set to 95 before





Oil temp was the same?!





Oil pressure was also miles off what the factory default was so I've changed it back.

Doesn't make any difference now as the sensor reads incorrectly anyway due to being a non-LTE part.

It's done for when it's swapped though





I'll do all the sensors etc when I swap the oil, to save draining it twice and wasting oil.

The fuel pump really doesn't like it when the fuel level gets low, so I'm going to replace the tank with something sumped and/or baffled.

The tank that's in there is pretty crap to be honest and doesn't have

(or have provision to have) a fuel sensor installed.

If this things going to be tracked I really don't want to be worrying about fuel starvation because of a cheap old tank!

The pump noise was bothering me, which as of tonight has been diagnosed as being down to having very little fuel left.

Hard to tell when you have no fuel gauge, as rocking the car backwards and forwards isn't exactly scientific

I popped off the rear covers to see what's what and found the pump to be a Facet, which I'm told are fairly good.

*Excuse the photo quality from here on, I'm using the camera on the new phone.

Not quite up to the standards of my Canon 6D!









Nick suggested that some of the noise could be because it's mounted in the way it is, so I thought it made sense to add a little something to absorb vibration.

Enter feet from a network switch





Tidied up.

Yes I know you won't see it and it won't make any difference if the extra lobes aren't cut off, I can't help it.













Makes a little bit of a difference, it's a job done nonetheless.

The pump it's might need servicing, so I'll do that at the time the tank's swapped.

I'll do the fuel filter too as it's a bit dirty.

Another fuel/dash related observation is that if you want to power up the dash you have to insert and turn the kill switch

(obviously) as well as flicking the pump switch.

This powers up the fuel pump, which can't be good for it to be sat rattling away without the engine fired up.

To remedy this I'm going to wire the dash into the kill switch, so as long as the kill switch is in and on the dash will be too.

It suits the way I work far far more and isn't going to put a strain on the fuel pump.

Not sure why it would have been wired that way in the first place?!

I'm ordering a proper speed sensor to match the dash as at the moment it's got a bike sensor fitted.

Amazingly it's actually bang on accurate, which is incredible considering you could have the same thing fitted to your Halfords MTB

It will help calibrate the proper sensor/dash setup when I fit the new bits, so it's staying for now.

The valve clearances need checking again

(thanks for the heads-up Nick

), which I'll be doing over the next coupe of weeks.

I'm going to spray the cam covers whilst they're off, as they look pretty tatty at the moment.

Not sure what colour yet, likely black gloss to match the other bits.

Whilst buying the air filter bits I got talking to a someone who works for these guys

-
http://www.michaelcomberracing.com/ and to cut a VERY long story short I'm off down there to see them and get the alignment, ride height and corner weighting sorted.

They used to race Westfields so should be able to get the old dog dialled in nicely

I think that's the main part of it at the moment.

No doubt more will be discovered as I delve deeper into other areas of what has become another true Mule
