[Mk2] [Turbo] ST205 Charge Cooler. some questions and help please.

[Drifter]

water wetter could you give a link if possible on the product?

[Drifter]

okies my test went superb here was my technical measuring device (also know as a bottle with some water in)



and my assumptions were correct, the wire coming from the chargecooler is some how the main problem.....

now how 2 stop it from cutting out any ideas on how 2 insulate the wire in the engine bay? so it doesnt get interfeared with from the other cables?? or could it be caused from engine vibration?

[Drifter]

ok dont actually know how many ppl on IMOC are interested about this investigation im doing.... but here is what i did just.

Re-wired new stat up from other LCD display and used heat-shrink connectors 2 connect the wire coming from the cockpit 2 the stat wire, tested resistance was perfect 0.00

Next i tested the Display using the same bottle as eariler and placed it near the induction kit/greddy catch tank. The Display worked perfect, even on full boost / high RPMs. piccy below.



I then thinking it was just the connection was duff before, fitted the stat into the charge cooler and guess what? it cut out on full boost / high RPM piccy below of how it is installed



So my question 2 you IMOC is how do i get this 2 work

[raptor95GTS]

sounds like it is the interference from the HT leads but how you fix it I have no idea Can you move the sensor further away from the core?

[Drifter]

thats what im thinking ATM...... but means drilling a hole into the chargecooler at the back above the turbo area and i dont wana do that...... there must be someway 2 get round it, maybe some uber insulation between leads and stat wires....

[raptor95GTS]

I was thinking about the plastic pipework near the pump to mount the sensors rather than chop into the core

[Drifter]

.......... erm piccy of the pipe you mean? and wont that pipe be hot tho, not cooled?

[raptor95GTS]

depends what you want to measure. Ideally it wuld be the water temperature in the core so... how about drilling a hole into the level sensor mount - thats the black rubber covered cap next to the filler cap. That should be far enough from the HT leads? Even if you tape the sensor on and go for a test run to see if it works ok?

[GT4 Baz]

What about running a screen over the HT cables if that is whats causing it?

Or a screen over the temp sensor cable?

[Drifter]

yea i was thinking screening / insulating b4 i started drilling my chargecooler, if i messed up that would mean a new chargecooler

[Drifter]

ok just some other questions i wana ask... whats yout temperatures running at atm on your chargecooler? mine sits around 20-30 degrees once engine is warm. and a nice 6-7 degrees on a cold start 5:30am lol

Also.... how do i gain access to the spark plugs ive recently bought this as im sure you are aware, and this was already fitted but who do i get to them? do i have to remove the cooler from the sock and it should then give me enough access to them?

[grayboy]

hi mate ,

ye if you take it off the sock and off the turbo pipe end , then you can move the cooler away to the side and then get access to the plugs , but they were only changed in november to xxxx colder grade plugs , so they wont need doing anytime soon

[Drifter]

ahh sweets im trying to think of a good servicing plan atm lol, and when to change things lol.

[karammander]

hey i use the same plugs as bri used in yours, i tend to change them every 6-7k, its a pain to remove the cooler but its not done often so its alright, easier to get to the oil filter though with the downpipe and chargecooler.

just out of intrest how are you finding the car, i liked the exhaust note the best, sounds awsome. even over my apexi gt you could always tell the difference between our cars.

good to hear your getting to grips with the gauge.

cheers karam

[Drifter]

yea the car is awsome just trying 2 tidy a few minor things up, and yea the HKS system is well nice.
Once i figure out out how 2 protect the stat sensor, i'll be happy i can then move onto other stuff, best to do 1 thing at a time, and make aure its done correct is what i say lol.

[StuartTheFish]

Looking at your pictures, since you aren't using the water level sensor on your core (under the rubber cover next to the core filler cap), could you not fit a temp sensor in there instead? It's a little further away from the HT leads and distributor, so won't pick up as much interference. That, and the original toyota sensor worked okay in that location otherwise they wouldn't of fitted it there.

[karammander]

i would look into thermal products for insulating your cables. you can buy sleeves to protect your ht leads, you could just use it for the cc sensor. they have a foil side and the other is glass fibre.

have a look on demon tweeks motorsport section

cheers karam

[Ja99a]

Guys I used the CC level switch to install a temp sensor, I originally drilled out the plastic but after messing with it so much it eventually fell to pieces, I then made up a brass one, It took me about 5 attempts to get the thread correct on my lathe and about a week of work, (I suck at thread cutting) but my final install is immune from the interference you guys are talking about.

I had a simliar issue which kept messing with the readings, as I am controling the pump speed using the temp sensor this was not good.

Instead I used some shielded cable and now everthing is cool.

Not sure if these pictures will help, its when I was using the plastic level switch.


http://www.frickerm.co.uk/Projects/Proj ... index.html

Word of warning if you wreck the plastic float and it leaks they are about £50 from mr T.

[Drifter]

Hmmmm nice bit of info there guys got 1 of my electricians on the case atm lol, he's gona try n insualte the wire where its fitted currently, if that fails i'll wire it to the level sensor as you sugested, im a toolmaker so i should be able to work out the threads easy enough, and make some special 1 off device that will insulate the sensor

I'll kepp ya'll updated, and how i fix it (yes i will fix it!!! )

[Drifter]

well...... story continues, had the electricans at my place knock me up some earth tape insulation tubing, was basically a 6mm airline house, with whats looks like braided metal house over the top this also had an earth wire soldered too it, which i attached to the chassis, apparantly its supposed to earth any interference, thus stopping it cutting out......

Well fitted that looked cool by the way but....... still didnt stop it from cutting out

So only 1 solution i can think of, drill that lever sensor out and wire it into there, i taped the sensor under that rubber cap and it worked non stop, i think....

So gona be making a alloy billet at work over next few days, to fit the sensor too.

If this doesnt work...... i'll give up i think