Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

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PW@Woodsport
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by PW@Woodsport »

you will get a dodgy idle with any intake manifold air leak,so yes if the t-vis vsv piping is leaking it will affect idle.
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un1eash
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by un1eash »

Very similar to what i had in mind, i thort about adding a diesel relay also so that it stays on for a shorter fixed period.
jimi
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by jimi »

midenginedmaniac wrote:A quick question Mr Woods.

The small vacuum pipe that comes off the tvis to what I presume is an airflow swich then back to the air inlet. If this hoze had a leak which it sounds like mine may have would it cause the car to idol high.

When I got the car it was 2.5 K when cold and 1.5 K when warm. Pinch the pipe and it drops to 1K ish. I have adjusted the idol screw for now but i think this is just masking the issue.

The local halfrauds don't have any vacuum pipe.


If you mean the one that comes off the top of the throttle body in this pic

Image

then that goes to the idle-up VSV, if you have certain electrical loads switched on then the VSV will open and raises the idle speed by about 200 rpm.
The idle-up VSV is activated by the following
Tail lights
Brake lights
Heater blower
Heated rear screen
Radiator fan
hth
Jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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Tony jinxy froude
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by Tony jinxy froude »

jimi wrote:
midenginedmaniac wrote:A quick question Mr Woods.

The small vacuum pipe that comes off the tvis to what I presume is an airflow swich then back to the air inlet. If this hoze had a leak which it sounds like mine may have would it cause the car to idol high.

When I got the car it was 2.5 K when cold and 1.5 K when warm. Pinch the pipe and it drops to 1K ish. I have adjusted the idol screw for now but i think this is just masking the issue.

The local halfrauds don't have any vacuum pipe.


If you mean the one that comes off the top of the throttle body in this pic

Image

then that goes to the idle-up VSV, if you have certain electrical loads switched on then the VSV will open and raises the idle speed by about 200 rpm.
The idle-up VSV is activated by the following
Tail lights
Brake lights
Heater blower
Heated rear screen
Radiator fan
hth
Jimi


& for about 10 - 15 seconds after cranking the engine into life :wink: Just being pedantic Jimi :oldtongue: , Jinxy
jimi
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by jimi »

Tony jinxy froude wrote:
& for about 10 - 15 seconds after cranking the engine into life :wink: Just being pedantic Jimi :oldtongue: , Jinxy


Image the idle-up VSV gets it power to energise only from the circuits I quoted, there's no relay or timers involved to energise and keep it energised for 10-15 seconds after starting the engine :wink:
What you will be seeing is the after effects of the cold start injector spraying extra fuel in for starting. :-P :oldtongue:
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Tony jinxy froude
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by Tony jinxy froude »

jimi wrote:
Tony jinxy froude wrote:
& for about 10 - 15 seconds after cranking the engine into life :wink: Just being pedantic Jimi :oldtongue: , Jinxy


Image the idle-up VSV gets it power to energise only from the circuits I quoted, there's no relay or timers involved to energise and keep it energised for 10-15 seconds after starting the engine :wink:
What you will be seeing is the after effects of the cold start injector spraying extra fuel in for starting. :-P :oldtongue:

Well thats odd, im sure mine does it Jimi :-k after cranking the engine does it not up the revs to return the power back to the battery due to the load on cranking ? :-k gonna check this week as im still pretty sure my VSV opens for 10 - 15 seconds after starting :-k , Jinxy
JMR_AW11
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by JMR_AW11 »

Tony jinxy froude wrote:
jimi wrote:
Tony jinxy froude wrote:
& for about 10 - 15 seconds after cranking the engine into life :wink: Just being pedantic Jimi :oldtongue: , Jinxy


Image the idle-up VSV gets it power to energise only from the circuits I quoted, there's no relay or timers involved to energise and keep it energised for 10-15 seconds after starting the engine :wink:
What you will be seeing is the after effects of the cold start injector spraying extra fuel in for starting. :-P :oldtongue:

Well thats odd, im sure mine does it Jimi :-k after cranking the engine does it not up the revs to return the power back to the battery due to the load on cranking ? :-k gonna check this week as im still pretty sure my VSV opens for 10 - 15 seconds after starting :-k , Jinxy

If you have a late model mk1b like mine this VSV is also controlled by the ECU after startup. It holds it on for a few seconds after starting.
Tony jinxy froude
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by Tony jinxy froude »

:thumleft: Thanks Jeremy, i knew i wasnt going mad :mrgreen: , Jinxy
jimi
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by jimi »

:oops: My apologies Tony you were indeed correct, it was the 1a electrical drawings I was looking at, and the VSV is fed directly from the circuits. On the 1b it's fed from the ECU (terminal V-ISC) my mistake for not checking both drawings :oops:
Thanks for pointing it out Jeremy :thumleft:
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Black_mk1

Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by Black_mk1 »

I used one of these timer kits on my PW choke kit.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Mod ... r&doy=31m3

I rigged up a couple of remote push buttons and an LED and it's set to 90 seconds.
It works a treat and can't be left on and I can decide whether I need it on or not.
Tony jinxy froude
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by Tony jinxy froude »

No need to appologise Jimi :thumleft: ive still got stacks to learn & i enjoy learning as much as i can from the best :thumleft: , cheers, Jinxy
Tony jinxy froude
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by Tony jinxy froude »

Black_mk1 wrote:I used one of these timer kits on my PW choke kit.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Mod ... r&doy=31m3

I rigged up a couple of remote push buttons and an LED and it's set to 90 seconds.
It works a treat and can't be left on and I can decide whether I need it on or not.

I like the look of that :thumleft: ,is it easy to rig up ? ive just got the original rocker switch that Paul rigged up when he put mine in, so would like to use the same wiring thats in the car already without the need to trapse extra wire all over the place, is this possible with this unit ? & can you run a separate led rather than use the one on the unit, its a bit close to the board for it to be of any use really, have you rigged this up in the engine bay then run a switch to the dash ? & how do you make it not opperate when the engine is already warm ? , sorry for so many questions, but this looks ideal for what i need , cheers, Jinxy
Black_mk1

Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by Black_mk1 »

Tony jinxy froude wrote:ive just got the original rocker switch that Paul rigged up when he put mine in, so would like to use the same wiring thats in the car already without the need to trapse extra wire all over the place, is this possible with this unit ?

I put the circuit board in a plastic box and it sits under/behind the stereo. The only wire going to the back of the car is the single live wire provided by paul that you already have in situ.
Image

Tony jinxy froude wrote:can you run a separate led rather than use the one on the unit, its a bit close to the board for it to be of any use really

Yep, both the on and reset switches are remote along with the led.
Image
I know it looks a bit crap but these are the only switches I had in the garage.

Tony jinxy froude wrote:have you rigged this up in the engine bay then run a switch to the dash ?

Nope, as above :)

Tony jinxy froude wrote:how do you make it not opperate when the engine is already warm ?

Well, its currently wired up as push on (red) for 90 seconds or press the reset (black) if you want it off earlier - if that makes sense?

Mine will be heading for the skip as I have the v6 going in this weekend. The box is a bit crap as it's all I had kicking around but if you want the box and switches to play with, i'll happily stick it in the post if you cover postage :)
Tony jinxy froude
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by Tony jinxy froude »

Hey thats really kind of you :thumleft: of course i'll cover any costs just let me know. if you can scribble a little diagram along with it that would be great :thumleft: . Just one thing, Paul decided rather than run a live through the car, he ran the earth through the car instead, so this may confuse me slightly so if you can figure this into the diagram too i'll be your bestest friend foever :mrgreen: :mrgreen: , cheers, Jinxy
Black_mk1

Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by Black_mk1 »

Yeah, I think mine works by switching the earth, i'll double check.
I'll pm you when sent, cheers :)
midenginedmaniac

Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by midenginedmaniac »

Hmm. Thats the pipes jimi. My car rpm drops when I put the lights on also is that normal. I will sort it soon. Lots to do at the moment. I ordered a temperature controller and PT100 today. I must as find out what two pipes get switched through the solenoid.
jimi
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by jimi »

No that's not normal, the idle-up circuit should raise the idle to compensate. You need to to sort the vacuum leak, then set up the idle correctly.
If you look on that pic I posted earlier then the solenoid is between the 2 8mm red pipes that you can see in the pic. The one on the left goes to a connection on the throttle body that is normally blanked off with a rubber cap, the one on the intake side is normally blanked as well ( it's only there on a 1b) you don't need to use that one, it's only used to provide filtered air.
If you fit a small filter to one port of the solenoid and connect the other port to the connection on the left ( in the pic ) of the throttle body then that will work fine. Like this
Image
hth
Jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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midenginedmaniac

Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by midenginedmaniac »

I am still confused. The solonoid opens to let more filtered air in to increase the idol.

Where is it connected to and do you need to blank anything off.

The only 8mm pipe I can see is on the elbow before the throttle body. Surely it must go in after.

Thanks in advance.
spudgun
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Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by spudgun »

midenginedmaniac wrote:I am still confused. The solonoid opens to let more filtered air in to increase the idol.

Where is it connected to and do you need to blank anything off.

The only 8mm pipe I can see is on the elbow before the throttle body. Surely it must go in after.

Thanks in advance.


I reckon your on about the right one (if you look above the throttle body, its on the underside towards the rear of the car)

If that's the one your thinking of, yes, it does allow gas in past the throttle butterfly, into the main plenium.

HTH.
midenginedmaniac

Re: Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

Post by midenginedmaniac »

Also what size is the idol up tube 4mm looks to big. 3MM ?. I can't find any local.
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