Tale of two MR2's...Berk Technology exhaust fitted

[Cliff]

It still lives?!?!?

I was the first UK owner of N850 SMX and sold it back in 2010.

I see it has gained a spoiler and another exhaust pipe...

[yokomomr4bx]

She still lives, I've been putting around 10,000 miles a year on to her since getting it back from the body shop. I've had it coming up 5 years now.

Yes after the crash I turned it relatively back to stock...speaking of, I put the GTR wheels on a few weeks ago, I'll post some photos of it currently.

How long did you own it for, any good stories or quirks from when you owned it? I assume you sold it to the chap I bought it off in Nottingham?

[yokomomr4bx]

Little update.

I finally got round to changing the drivers side sill, as you will see from the photos it wasn't the worst by any means, but it was certainly on it's way and wouldn't have gone through another winter particularly well!



The crack I'm trying to show in this first photo is the join from when I had the quarter panel welded on 5 (I think) or so years ago. I.e. the join shown in the sill in the below image...







I set to work with my old friend the spot weld drill bit...it's been a while but the memories returned quickly!















All surface rust on the inner sill was removed and a liberal amount of waxoyl was sprayed deep into the cavities. I also sprayed exposed welding points with weld through primer to reduce the amount of exposed metal and the potential for rust to return too quickly. (I want at least another few years out of this job).

It was then a case of careful cutting, sanding and welding the new pieces into place with a little improv for the inner sill sections to the rear.











As I've said in previous posts, I'm by no means a painter/body panel worker but I was content to give this task a go by myself given that it isn't a particularly aesthetic critical area and overall I'm rather pleased with the results!



I had my dashboard professionally flocked a few years ago and whilst I posted images of the parts off the car, I hadn't ever posted fitted pictures, so here they are.





Other tasks that have been performed that don't warrant photos included removal of all broken under tray bolts, re-threading of the holes and installing new bolts (whilst I had the drill and tap out I did a lot of miscellaneous bolts which had been replaced by cable ties over the years). I also replaced a split inner CV boot before it lost all of it's grease.

High on my list now is a set of Koni damper inserts. I'm very happy with how the H&R springs have settled down over the past 3 years and I'm satisfied with the spring rate being as even across both axles as is likely to get for the MR2 (see Wilhelm suspension geometry data for reasoning). Off the back of this, these springs have a weight closest to those which would be ideal for the Koni dampers anyway, so they are a logical choice. I wisely fitted the rebuildable Rev1 struts many years ago in preparation for fitting dampers of my choice.

Another project which I am eager to start is construction of a modular exhaust system. Starting from the generic mid-pipe I have been designing a multi-piece system connected together with V-band type fittings which would enable the addition or removal of silencer or straight pipe sections depending on the mood/track requirements. My aim is to have at least 2 removable silencer sections culminating in a single, slightly downturned tailpipe in the centre. Whilst the twin exit looks very balanced and would be equally feasibly to construct in a modular design, it effectively leaves exhaust being silenced by only one box so isn't especially useful for tuning the exhaust note (it's either present, not present or you have to buy a different silencer).

Hopefully more to come over summer/autumn.

[Ryan S]

looks good bud. A job I need to get done as well before going for paint again.

[yokomomr4bx]

Little update, very little has taken place since buying our first house recently, however I have been working on the brakes in the evenings. I kept suffering with partially seized pistons on both front brakes. So I ordered up a new set of pistons and seals to rebuild them. I took the opportunity to repaint the calipers and carriers in a nice shade of metallic purple. The brakes had previously been painted purple and it looked quite good against the great bodywork, so I wanted to stick with that! I also got some neat TRD stickers which I've seen a few people put on and think it looks very smart.







If it's not clear from the photos, these were stripped before painting and then reassembled with all components new except the brake banjo bolts. Certainly happy with the result, just need to do the rears now!

[Vapid]

These look great!

[Equium Duo]

I need to do the same for both my sills, plus some work in the rear arches and vents.

Good show!

[yokomomr4bx]

Thought I would give an update seeing as I've changed a few parts recently, mostly run of the mill things but still may be interesting. When I replaced my coilovers with standard struts around 4 years ago I made sure to get the rebuildable housing style, as I knew I would want the choice of dampers in the future. I finally got round to ordering up a full set of KYB excel Gs and paired this with a full set of discs and pads all round and a pair of rear handbrake cables as one of them had snapped just before lockdown.

I got round to fitting the suspension yesterday, I've only taken a few photos of the last strut I did at the rear.

The collars were a bit of a pain to take of and needed some significant persuasion with a drift and hammer! Once I worked out what was needed from the first one the other three were much easier, as can be seen by the state of the collars (first at the top).



I cleaned out the insides as best I could without going crazy.







Here are the old inserts, Tokyo illuminas at the rear and KYB AGXs at the front



As per the internet, I filled the shock body with some gear oil I had lying around. I made sure the level was well below the threads before I put the collar on with a liberal amount of copper grease to save me next time!





Here is the fully assembled strut. I also fitted new boots and bump stops (cut down to an inch as otherwise you compromise on travel and damping).



I also took the chance to replace my nearside front hub as it had developed quite a bit of run out, I'll get this one sorted so I have a spare as the bearing is still fine.



While fitting the new brakes I finally got round to putting my freshly painted callipers and carriers on and they look rather smart!





Overall it was a successful bit of maintenance. The ride quality is much improved from my previous worn out dampers that were second hand when I got them. I have to say that the H&R springs have been faultless for me, the ride height is perfectly settled front to rear at just over an inch and a half to the wheel arch from the tyre, and they seem to be adequately matched to the dampers for now.

I was reminded in another thread recently about boost controllers, and it occurred to me that I hadn't posted photos of mine, and I haven't come across a similar setup yet... I installed mine in this cubby hole by the drivers leg.



Viewed from the driving position it is completely invisible when not open. When open for adjustments it looks very unobtrusive.



I'm not sure Blitz would approve of the deconstruction required to get it to fit however! I haven't touched this for over 5 years since I first built it and it's been faultless.



My gauges are also quit interestingly mounted. The EGT gauge in the door is a custom door pod and the pillar mount is a standard dashmount ball design with the back cut off and secured to the inside of the pillar trim. I had holes in the trim from a previous design so I utilised these for the vacuum and power lines with grommets to neaten everything up.



Other nuances I haven't mentioned yet include replacing the stock boost gauge with a stock volt meter, as I'm sure many people (quite rightly) do.



And, my bonnet has no washer jets! I had previously had a carbon bonnet with no washer jets, so had installed them in the scuttle. The front looked much cleaner without them so I kept the idea when I put a standard bonnet back on.



That'll do for now. My next updates should be fitting the Wilhelm race works geometry kit that's been sitting on a shelf for goodness knows how long now! I have ordered protective rubber covers for the rose joints though, so it's a step closer. I've also finalised the design of my exhaust and may order up the materials to construct it...I'll be compromising on my original modular design but overall I have a feeling it's still going to polarise the community on its aesthetics Hopefully it'll be done before the end of summer.

EDIT: Arbitrary points for anyone who can guess what the switch in this photo is for...

[Ryan S]

Very cool man. Loving the washer jets! Is the switch for hi-low boost? I have my boost switch wired into the old fog light switch. Very oem!

[Equium Duo]

That look so cool... Love it.

Was it hard to modify the scuttle board?

[yokomomr4bx]

I finally got round to building the new exhaust I've been talking about for a few years. The modular design of it could still happen in the future, hence incorporating the 'V' band fitting this side of the subframe. Few points to note in the design.

1) I used mild steel rather than stainless as I wanted the thicker wall inherent to mild steel tubing - this creates a softer tone to the exhaust which is very pleasant on long journeys.

2) I have left the downturned tip exposed purposefully to rust - I like the colours natural rusting creates and is simply my preference. I appreciate it's not to everyones taste though and I equally enjoy polished stainless!

3) It is still my intention to incorporate a divert pipe between the outlet of the first muffler and exit pipe, effectively making this a single silencer system for when you want the noise.

4) This is a very cost effective design. This used a total of two and a bit 180 degree mandrel bends, around 60cm of straight, a 'V' band clamp and a tight 90 degree turn. Including the cost of the Jetex mild steel mufflers and exhaust hanger rod this was around £220 from start to finish!

Photos!













Now I really need to get on with fitting the Wilhelm geometry kit because the angle of those rear toe arms is quite wrong!!

In answer to modifying the scuttle board - it wasn't difficult at all, however the location for the jets happens to be right above a metal brace, so I had to drill a hole through the brace to allow the washer jet pipe to feed through.

And regarding the switch...it's not a high/low boost switch, it's actually an aerial switch so I can listen to an iPod etc without the aerial being up!

[yokomomr4bx]

Considering I received the geometry kit from Wilhelm Raceworks in July 2018...it's pretty bad that it's taken me this long to actually fit it! No matter, the opportunity presented itself this week, and we're now rocking the full geometry kit and fresh Yokohama AD08rs tyres all round, ready for the summer. I also replaced the front top mounts for some non-cracked/perished items, every little helps.

Here are some photos to show the kit fitment and the rubber boots I fitted to protect the rose joints from the worst of the elements. They will inevitably wear out faster than standard items, but this should buy them a little more time.











I lost a little bling by fitting the boots, but unfortunately no one will really ever see them anyway!







This image highlights the difference in toe control arm angle, compared to the standard parts. Also worth noting the very tight clearance between the wheel barrel and the lower ball joint nut...I did grind a little more off so the clearance is more like 4-5mm that 1-2mm.



A little modification of what is left of my disc guard was required for the front.









It took around 4 hours to fit from start to finish, including the top mounts. Overall, the fit and finish is perfect, couldn't fault the installation. I'll have to drive a bit more to fully appreciate the changes, however straight off the bat the reduction in bump steer, especially from the rear, is dramatic. Chassis roll has also reduced noticeably and the rear does not dive through its suspension travel on slow speed bumps. I've noticed some significant improvements in stability mid-corner when tightening for a sharper radius turn, or powering on - there is much less tendency for the front to push out on throttle.

Bottom line - if you've lowered your SW20, this kit is for you

[Race Idiot]

When I've spoken with Alex he says the joints should be fine for use on the road but I've had rose jointed stuff fail on me pretty fast.

Where did you get the rubber boots from?

Also did you do the adjustment for the kit yourself?

[yokomomr4bx]

Yeh I'm not expecting much in the way of longevity!

The boots were generic M16/M18 items from eBay, can't say I was overly impressed by the quality of them as a few had holes in...but they'll still be better than exposed metal.

Didn't do the alignment myself, went down that road with string and pipes a few years ago until I found a great shop local to me that takes the time of day to do it right with some fancy Hunter (I think!?) equipment. I can upload the alignment sheet if you're interested?

[wilkie senior]

[quote="yokomomr4bx"

I took lots of photos of the dash removal and disassembly and wondered about making a guide but I wasn't sure how many people would actually use it for the effort of making it!

Hi I would Great story & quality of work well done sir



I really want to flock my dash I detest the refeltions off the dash both of mine have done it

I certaily would appreciate a guide, people say its easy but if oyou have done it, instruction or photos help a lot to make it easier & quicker

Best Regards Brian

[yokomomr4bx]

Time for another update - exhaust related again

I thought I was happy with the single exit I made...but actually as time went on I really missed the unique engine note that the MR2 has with such a short overall exhaust. I have always been a fan of how the Berk Technology system looks but in recent years the cost of new exhaust systems has skyrocketed and it's been hard to justify the cost. I guess there comes a point when you cave in though. I ordered up a new Berk system from TarmacSportz and I have to hand it to them, it only took a week to arrive from the date of ordering, top job. It arrived in great packaging so I thought I would share some photos of how well it was protected.









There's no getting away from what a great looking system this is. There's often a lot to say about the fit and build quality of Berk exhausts for the MR2 and admittedly I did struggle a little to get the exhaust hung on the rear mounts - a little bending of the hangers on the exhaust to get the holes aligned and a bit of leverage to get the bolts in. I would say overall I wasn't disappointed, I just wasn't as impressed as I should have been having spent £860 on an exhaust. I can't argue with the positioning and fit once all assembled though. It's perfectly centred and looks surprisingly subtle (for a chrome exhaust). Here's some more pics:







Here's an interesting comparison with my original Japspeed system, just to see the difference in muffler size! This Japspeed exhaust was the same exhaust I replaced the tips on after my crash and also opened up to replace the silencing material (this did not work well and was deafening after).



While the car currently has a Berk decat pipe, I'm getting tired of the stress emissions brings me every year and just want some peace of mind that I've done all I can to make the car legal emissions wise. I also would like to remove the drone while cruising on the motorway/long A roads and I think the original cat will help a lot with that. So I've been assembling an original catalytic converter for the rev3 turbo. The cat you see in the photos is a mix of a ct20b elbow and a rev2 turbo catalytic converter section which was in great shape and I have to thank Andrew at JSpec in Scotland for supplying this and taking a damaged cat I was sent to offset the cost. Andrew is a great communicator and a pleasure to do business with - I have no doubt I will buy much more from him over the years (as it goes he's supplying me with all the A/C pipes to rebuild my A/C system, but I'll save that for another post). Here's a photo of a complete MR2 turbo exhaust system:





Here's also some photos of the old system which I made myself and was on the car for around 2 years I think. I did try to fit a cat in but it was just too far away to get hot enough to function, although it did go some way to pleasing the MOT tester. Interesting to note the difference in weight between the two systems. The Berk system is 15kg exactly. The system I made is 20kg. However, the system I made carries 16-17kg all at the back in the silencers/cat/pipework, compared to the Berk exhaust which probably carries only 11-12kg over the back in the mufflers and pipework. My system also hung a lot further back and I'm convinced was upsetting the balance of the car with the springs and dampers I have fitted...but that's probably just placebo!





Here's a quick snap of the Berk system on the car.



I need some advice on whether to keep the metal grill which runs between the exit pipes, or whether to cut it off and preserve it in case I want to put it back on in the future. At the moment I'm leaning toward cutting it off as the exhaust looks so good now! What do you guys think?

I'm also contemplating selling the exhaust system I made, however it is mild steel, quite corroded in places and not to everyones taste, so even if I wanted to I'm not sure I would be able to If you do like it though, get in touch.

[yokomomr4bx]

That look so cool... Love it.

Was it hard to modify the scuttle board?

Apologies for not replying! No it wasn't hard at all actually, fine tooth hobby saw and a dremel with a slim drum sander to tidy it up worked well.

[yokomomr4bx]

Very cool man. Loving the washer jets! Is the switch for hi-low boost? I have my boost switch wired into the old fog light switch. Very oem!

Switch is actually for the aerial so I can have the head unit switched on to listen to an iPod etc without sending a signal to the aerial motor and having it up.

[ayresyboy]

I need some advice on whether to keep the metal grill which runs between the exit pipes, or whether to cut it off and preserve it in case I want to put it back on in the future. At the moment I'm leaning toward cutting it off as the exhaust looks so good now! What do you guys think?

Cut it off, and you will be welcomed to the church

[Magic Beans]

The Berk looks great! I might still go that route in the future and swap the Mongoose onto my other car.