Discussion and technical advice the SW20 MR2. 3S-GTE, 3S-GE, 3S-FE etc
Anything and everything to do with maintenance, modifications and electrical is in here for the Mk2.
QUOC2008 wrote:Use Ebc stuff if you want to die... nothing beats carbotech go for ax6 for streets and track and xp8 track only
hmm if you reakon.. i and several others have no problem with EBC.. and mine are used hard...
i agree that carbotechs are probably better, but EBC have worked well for me so far
3 laps of Castle Combe burned up all my disks and I lost all braking using EBC yellow pads.
The following year my son found the old pads and fitted them to his sprint car. After 2 minutes use on his first run at StEvel sprint he had boiled all his brake fluid.
With new EBC disks, 2 weeks of just driving to work both the front disks just warped out of shape.
I gave EBC a go but their parts are just crap.
Designer for turbo set ups on F1 cars, and Nitrous Oxide Systems of the USA in the 80s
Which compound are you using, i'm tempted to get a set of the R4-S for the road if they dont dust up as much as my carbotechs do.
Then maybe just swap the xp8s on for trackdays.
Also if anybody knows how to get rid of stubborn carbotech dust that would be brilliant lol
QUOC2008 wrote:Use Ebc stuff if you want to die... nothing beats carbotech go for ax6 for streets and track and xp8 track only
hmm if you reakon.. i and several others have no problem with EBC.. and mine are used hard...
i agree that carbotechs are probably better, but EBC have worked well for me so far
3 laps of Castle Combe burned up all my disks and I lost all braking using EBC yellow pads.
The following year my son found the old pads and fitted them to his sprint car. After 2 minutes use on his first run at StEvel sprint he had boiled all his brake fluid.
With new EBC disks, 2 weeks of just driving to work both the front disks just warped out of shape.
I gave EBC a go but their parts are just crap.
fair enough.. If i have an issue with them i am sure i will move elsewhere, but currently i personally had no issues so far..
will see how they do this year
Thanks for all the feedback guys. When I get round to it I'll upgrade to the rev3 calipers with some nice pads and discs.
Rev1 Tubby, Garrett GT3071R, Motec M4 EMS, 880cc delphis, Rev3 turbo port polished built head/cams/titanium retainers, shim under buckets, HD springs, etc., rear bumper mounted intercooler, and vanilla air freshener.
Race Idiot wrote:Which compound are you using, i'm tempted to get a set of the R4-S for the road if they dont dust up as much as my carbotechs do.
Then maybe just swap the xp8s on for trackdays.
Also if anybody knows how to get rid of stubborn carbotech dust that would be brilliant lol
I have R4 and my son has my R4-S ones.
I had them on my road car for about 2 years, do not remember the wheels getting coverd with dust, they are just the same as any other pads.
Designer for turbo set ups on F1 cars, and Nitrous Oxide Systems of the USA in the 80s
QUOC2008 wrote:Use Ebc stuff if you want to die... nothing beats carbotech go for ax6 for streets and track and xp8 track only
hmm if you reakon.. i and several others have no problem with EBC.. and mine are used hard...
i agree that carbotechs are probably better, but EBC have worked well for me so far
3 laps of Castle Combe burned up all my disks and I lost all braking using EBC yellow pads.
The following year my son found the old pads and fitted them to his sprint car. After 2 minutes use on his first run at StEvel sprint he had boiled all his brake fluid.
With new EBC disks, 2 weeks of just driving to work both the front disks just warped out of shape.
I gave EBC a go but their parts are just crap.
Totally agree with Bob here. I've had two sets of EBC discs warp on different cars. One were replaced and the other they said all discs should be lathed on the car to prevent disc variation thickness. I mean yeah ok but who fuk does that these days? Went for Brembo plain and DS2500, really good but don't think available for mr2's?
you know the OP already has most of the bits required for the BBK, just needs rev2+ rear calipers and the adaptor / spacer ring for the mazda fitment. New discs all round cost roughly the same but he would be able to run softer pads that wont overheat because of the larger disc size (heat sink) yet still have amazingly brakes and normal dust levels. True there is the cost of some additional brackets and things but at 300quid a shot for Carbotec pads vs 100quid for stock items it's not like there will be a huge cost saving going one way or the other.
I see these posts come up many many times and always the same thing, stock brake mechanicals are the best ever and only upgrade needed are pads. Quite a closed mind set I feel. Anyways, jog on
raptor95GTS wrote:
I see these posts come up many many times and always the same thing, stock brake mechanicals are the best ever and only upgrade needed are pads. Quite a closed mind set I feel. Anyways, jog on
It is all down to front and rear balance. the stock brakes do everything anyone will ever need for the road with the right pads and even on the sprints and hill climbs we do, if our brakes were not the best we would be into stone walls at 100mph.
If I was going to need to brake from 200mph down to a low speed the car would need better brakes, but we do not do that.
By changing to other size disks and calipers front and rear the balance will all be lost and there will be big problems trying to brake hard as one end or the other will lock up then the balance of the car is lost.
Designer for turbo set ups on F1 cars, and Nitrous Oxide Systems of the USA in the 80s
bobhatton wrote:......
By changing to other size disks and calipers front and rear the balance will all be lost and there will be big problems trying to brake hard as one end or the other will lock up then the balance of the car is lost.
only if you do it completely wrong which you seem to assume we all do. My car doesn't try to swap ends when I hit the brakes hard but since you insist it will, you must be correct and I must be wrong. You're the expert here so your word is law.
bobhatton wrote:......
By changing to other size disks and calipers front and rear the balance will all be lost and there will be big problems trying to brake hard as one end or the other will lock up then the balance of the car is lost.
only if you do it completely wrong which you seem to assume we all do. My car doesn't try to swap ends when I hit the brakes hard but since you insist it will, you must be correct and I must be wrong. You're the expert here so your word is law.
I think the point is there is a lot more scope for xxxxxx it up with the non OEM setup, and considering a fresh OEM setup with *good* components works very well, what do you actually gain by going with anything else? Perhaps on a race car where every hundredth saved counts it's worth going for something else and spending the time and money in getting it set up just right, in all other cases it's easier, simpler and cheaper to stick with OEM and make it work well.
raptor95GTS wrote:a complete OEM refresh with Carbotec pads is not cheaper but hey, any departure from stock brakes means instant death, bob says so
What's the itemised pricing for Mazda setup then? I find it hard to believe that new / reconditioned Mazda calipers, calipers, bits needed to fit them, and suitable (equivalent) discs and pads would be cheaper than a caliper rebuild kit, discs and pads for the OE stuff.
There are front caliper upgrades that have been designed to keep the brake balance correct like WMS. Plus they make kits that fit under 15 and 16 inch wheels.
Although personaly I only switched because I got fedup of buying refurb calipers and then having them seize up again. If I could get rid of the rears easily for a set of fixed ones I would.
race idiot, the repeated seizing of the calipers was one of my reasons for changing but the WMS kit wasn't around for the mk2 in those days.
Gazza - no one mentioned Mazda calipers and a set of Carbotecs pay for a lot of brackets and spacers leaving change (almost) for a set of OEM pads
Impressive video Bob but er how long were you on the brakes for? No wonder you can use rev1 brakes and not have any issues, less than 40 seconds a run and having an uphill slope to help with the brakes. Folks in the US (and some in the UK but like me they cannot be bothered arguing anymore though I bit this time for the sake of the OP) had your exact same arguments, then went track racing and came a cropper after 2 laps as their brakes melted but again, since you've had no problems you know best and the rest of us are wrong.
The stock brakes with a few modifications will lock all 4 wheels with little effort, fitting bigger brakes with the correct bias may lock the wheels with even less effort but they are not going to slow/stop the car any quicker. Fitting bigger brakes with the wrong front/rear bias could actually increase the stopping distance.
raptor95GTS wrote:
Gazza - no one mentioned Mazda calipers and a set of Carbotecs pay for a lot of brackets and spacers leaving change (almost) for a set of OEM pads
You mentioned Mazda fitment above, I assumed that was Mazda calipers.
Other good things about the wms kit (im not a shill honest!) is the reduction in unsprung mass which is quite significant compared to the std calipers.
Also the pedal feel is nicer.
No big brake kit is going to reduce the stopping distance, thats mainly down to the tyres you use.
If i have an issue with them i am sure i will move elsewhere, but currently i personally had no issues so far.
