I'm not sure.
.
the diode fitment is for eliminating fuel cut
??!!
I've never used that method so can't help in that department
.
.
always fitted an FCD or programmable ecu.
When the car is running
(on throttle), no boost registers on the stock boost gauge, is this right?
Ignore the stock boost gauge, they should have fitted a light.
.
would have been more effective.
.
.
Generally, the 1st mark on the gauge is zero.
.
.
so if you stick your ignition on, wait a few seconds, it should rise to that point.
.
.
when started, should drop down to the lower mark.
Checked the resistance across the ISC valve and it seems out of range
(about 30-40 ohms), does this mean it needs replacing?
Can't see that as the problem.
.
its still functioning.
.
.
Yes.
.
the valve also has a base setting so it doesn't completely shut.
.
.
"Any ideas?
"
Okay.
.
something thats probably overlooked
.
.
mechanical timing
.
.
.
.
If one of the cams is mechanically out of time, it will cause the problems you're having too.
.
.
.
.
I'm guessing you've got to throttle it to get it to start and run
?!?!
I think we've saturated the vac lines now
.
.
you're dump valve is taking the air after the afm.
.
.
so if it was bug9erred, unless pulling in air from atmosphere.
.
should still run and idle fine.
.
only when boosting, you'll see the valve not retain the pressure
( if mullered
)
See if you can take the top timing cover off, you need to check to see if the mechanical timing is at TDC.
Bottom pulley has a little notch out of it.
.
this needs to line up with the bottom timing cover with markers on it
( 0,5,10,15
).
.
Move the bottom pulley to zero
( 19mm rachet
)
The cams are lines up to the back plate.
.
.
on the 5 star shape cam gear, one will have a dot on it.
.
this is the mark that needs lining up with the back plate
( thin proud marker
)
Get some tippex out and mark the timing gear.
.
where its supposed to be
( on the timing gear
).
.
then mark the back plate.
.
.
you're trying to syncronise the whole lot up
!
You're nearly there
!
