The journey of one man and his Mule(s)

[Magic Beans]

Hmm, I think a genetically engineered massive spaniel might work. You never tire of seeing those ears flapping in the wind

I think I'd need to consult the fast food companies to see what they put into their mutant meats. Recipe X which they use in Species 17B (aka "chicken" apparently...) could be a winner.

Spaniels are generally placid, so any rage side effects of the food should be minimised.

[Magic Beans]

New jack arrived today, to replace the POS which failed on me This seems far better made so hopefully won't lower a Mule onto my torso while I'm under there.



Up you go fat a$$



So it's a Mule with a Sheepdog for an exhaust and a chimp driving. It's like a twisted 80's sitcom I do see the need for some polishing under here though



So, time to find the sources of the oil leaks. Exhibit 1:



Exhibit 2:



It looks like the sandwich plate and filter aren't to blame, it's actually a port with a grub screw in. Not sure what it's for though After cleaning everything down and running the engine for a while I spotted it leaking from here. See the left side of the sandwich plate below.



Tightened it up and tried again with no leaks. Not sure if that's solved it though, so will need to monitor it. The main issue appears to be the sump itself, as all the bolts connecting it to the upper sump area (don't know what it's called ) is wet with oil. Any suggestions on how to remedy it all?

Got width?





Checked for rust etc while I was under there and the sills and everything I could see were clean. No reason why they shouldn't be but the MOT is looming, so it's dotting Is and crossing Ts time.

[pistol pete]

looking awesome, hopefully the oil leak is sorted

please tell me you used axel stand

[synXero]

Dude.

Blend the arches into the border pods please.

[Magic Beans]

looking awesome, hopefully the oil leak is sorted

please tell me you used axel stand

I don't like being under these things at all, it feels all wrong to me. So when I do I always have a fail safe in place. Thanks for worrying about me though

[Magic Beans]

Dude.

Blend the arches into the border pods please.

I hear ya. It's the one thing I REALLY don't like about the car

I need to get some paintwork done on it this year, so plan to get everything like this done at the same time. The main issue is the fact it's not a standard colour, so the painter needs to mix the pearl to match the rest of the car

[Magic Beans]

What would this hole (mid left hand side of the sandwich plate) be for?

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w37 ... d37271.jpg

[pistol pete]

What would this hole (mid left hand side of the sandwich plate) be for?

[pistol pete]

A bleed screw in case needed?
Or maybe oil temp sensor?

[ashley]

I'm geussing it's a blanking screw, the original port may well be for a pressure or temperature sensor as Pete suggests

[Magic Beans]

Makes sense I guess. I'll see if anything has come out since it's been tightened and will look to seal it properly, as it obviously wasn't before

Looks like the sump bowl will need to come off again as the seal appears to have failed. Although it was only done back at the time the power mods went into Mule v1 last year Above the join is dry.

There isn't such a thing as a non-liquid gasket for rev 3s?

[dawesy]

nope just good old RTV.
make sure that all the old is cleaned off and that the bead sits 'inside' the bolt holes. if the sealant has been put round the outside of the holes itll leak through the bolts.
theres a diagram in the BGB i think for sealant placement.

the bung on the oil cooler is for a sensor attachment i think, hard to tell what size it is from the picture.

[Magic Beans]

nope just good old RTV.
make sure that all the old is cleaned off and that the bead sits 'inside' the bolt holes. if the sealant has been put round the outside of the holes itll leak through the bolts.
theres a diagram in the BGB i think for sealant placement.

the bung on the oil cooler is for a sensor attachment i think, hard to tell what size it is from the picture.

Understood, thanks

There's a couple of bolts which sheared off when it was being removed last year, which could be playing a role in the leak around the join.

The bung in the plate is around 8mm across, maybe 6mm. It was mounted to the old engine when I bought the car and was migrated to this engine during the transplant. I always assumed the leak was the O ring on the plate, but it's dry.

In my 18 months of ownership, spread over 2 cars, I've yet to have a dry MR2

[dawesy]

haha, yeah i have a little drip from somewhere but finding the source is proving hard
bung sounds like it is the right size for a temp sensor.
snapped bolts will cause a leak, lloks like its out with the easyouts when you get time then

[Magic Beans]

haha, yeah i have a little drip from somewhere but finding the source is proving hard
bung sounds like it is the right size for a temp sensor.
snapped bolts will cause a leak, lloks like its out with the easyouts when you get time then

It was always on the cards I guess. I'm a bit annoyed with myself for putting it off so long

Do you still have your '2?

[dawesy]

yes dude, off to fennies for mapping in a month or so.
pulling like a train though. dropped the boost from 1.8 -1.6 bar and pulled 5 deg of advance untill she's mapped. back end still lets go in second though
2.2 is defo the way to go as long as the block holds out

[toxo]

I had my sump sealed 4+ times before it actually worked. Surfaces need to be totally clean, needs to be reassembled within 5 minutes of the RTV going on, and ideally should be left to cure for 24hrs before you put the oil in.

[Magic Beans]

yes dude, off to fennies for mapping in a month or so.
pulling like a train though. dropped the boost from 1.8 -1.6 bar and pulled 5 deg of advance untill she's mapped. back end still lets go in second though
2.2 is defo the way to go as long as the block holds out

What kind of figures do you hope to get?

Cracking car though. I believe I spotted it at the Trowell services, on the way to JAE last year

[Magic Beans]

I had my sump sealed 4+ times before it actually worked. Surfaces need to be totally clean, needs to be reassembled within 5 minutes of the RTV going on, and ideally should be left to cure for 24hrs before you put the oil in.

Noted, thanks.

It would be so much easier if they used a solid gasket

[dawesy]

yes dude, off to fennies for mapping in a month or so.
pulling like a train though. dropped the boost from 1.8 -1.6 bar and pulled 5 deg of advance untill she's mapped. back end still lets go in second though
2.2 is defo the way to go as long as the block holds out

What kind of figures do you hope to get?

Cracking car though. I believe I spotted it at the Trowell services, on the way to JAE last year

yeah remember seeing you
dunno with this turbo and stock cams and exhaust manifold on a 2.0 bottom end it made 470bhp and 380ftlbs in the corolla, so with the new exhaust manifold, 264 cams and 2.2ltrs i think it should be north of 500bhp.
when it was in the corolla it was getting short of fuel hence stopping at 470bhp and 1.8bar. the turbo is good for 2.2-2.5bar though. have noticed that it now runs richer with the new exhaust manifold which is strange