so here is a little guide to how i built my sub box
(sealed box, NOT ported).I started off by measuring behind the passenger seat to see how much room I had the final measurements I came up with are below.
I would really say you need to pick your sub speaker first because you dont want to make a box that is to small for your subwoofer.
I brought one of those http://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/pr ... KFC-W110S/ Im not a great lover of kenwood but they gave all the detail I needed (depth of speaker and volume of space you need in the box etc) if you click on the instruction manual pdf you will see that the speaker will work from 0.6 cubit feet volume to 1.5 with a recommend 1 cubit foot volume for a NON ported box.My box is 25.47 litres
(28 litres = 1 cubit foot) not including the space taken by the speaker etc.
From what I have read from the internet what ever sub you fit you will need a box which contains X volume of space,
X is all dependent on what sub you go for but there are rough guidelines which you can get from this site http://www.termpro.com/articles/buildbox.htmlIve used
½ inch (12mm) MDF for the box.I brought the MDF from a local shop abit like B&Q
I think I got a bit of discount in there because they cut the wood to my measurements I gave them and they only charged me £2 for all the wood and cutting (you wont get it as cheap as that in B&Q)
I then screwed the box together using 4mm x 25mm screws, I predrilled holes using a
3mm drill bit and counter sunk the holes so the head of the screws would fit flush with the wood. Ive also brought
one of those to connect the sub to the amp http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Square-Sub-Box-Pu ... 18Q2el1247I used a 50 mm hole cutter to cut the hole for the speaker connector then drilled 4 2mm holes
(not all the way through) and used 4 3.5mm x 15mm screws to hold the connector in place.This connector was then removed and refitted after I carpeted the box
I also sealed the box using multipurpose silicone sealant.
When sealing the box you need to go around all joints including where the wiring comes in and also the sub the idea is to get a air tight box after the speaker has been installed you also need to use the sealant between the speaker and the box.What I was told years ago if you push the cone of the speaker in before you seal the box you will see it will spring back very quick after the box is totally sealed if you push the speaker in it should return really slowly.
Apic of the box after I had part sealed it
with the sub I brought it came with a template for the hole you need to cut for the speaker, I used this but to be honest when I drilled the holes for the screws for the sub, I used the sub as a template so I could get the speaker straight.
this is the amp I brought to power the box http://www.bassjunkies.com/index.php?pi ... pand_image
when I brought the wood for the sub I told the bloke the wrong sizes for each panel so I had to get a jigsaw out on most of the wood to get it to the right size my wood work skills are not all that so I got a eletric sander to make some of the edges a bit neater so it would look abit better when I carpeted the box
I also brought this to cover the sub with and the wood under the bonnet http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Sub-Woofer-Ba ... dZViewItem
the glue I used was evo-stick super evo
bond (PVA)the start of the carpeting, I glued one side at a time and left it for 1 hour for drying heres a pic of the first bit being glued on top of the box is a pair of front brake discs just to add a bit of wait to it.
The reason I put the sub on a box was im not sure how level the floor is and didnt want parts of the carpet not to stick to the sub box.
A few pics of the finished box
