Paul Wood's manual choke conversion, taken on to the next stage.

[spudgun]

This week I have been mostly......

Fitting a manual choke conversion with a difference.

I have done away with the manual switch up front and fitted a thermostatic switch on the coolant pipe that runs along the back of the block.

Anyone interested? I have some pics and what have you.

[cartledge_uk]

It would be good to see how its done

[PW@Woodsport]

sounds like a nice mod mate,similar to what jimi did with his?

[un1eash]

Ive been thinking about modding my manual choke with a temp switch and diesel relay so it turns of after 30s.

[PW@Woodsport]

i always planned on taking it a stage further but didnt want to complicate the installation of the kit,so i figured keeping it as a simple dash switch would be best,but i can see why some are sticking a temp switch and relay into the circuit to make it fully automated again.... super idea.

[spudgun]

sounds like a nice mod mate,similar to what jimi did with his?

Me and Jimi have been bouncing this off each other this week, and he's says its something he had thought about but not got around to.

I ended up using a switch like you recommended over on 'brutal sometime ago.

I will post up the info shortly.

[Oldyellow]

Anyone interested? I have some pics and what have you.

Yes please some pics etc would be great as I hope to do this mod in the near future.

[spudgun]

Right here we go then,

If your not familiar with Paul's manual choke the pop over to the mk1 club site and have a read up about it.

Basically, toyota's waxstat valve isn't great. It takes to long to shut while the car is warming up and it's main problem is that in old age it doesn't shut properly at all. This will all add up to the car revving when it doesn't need to and this in turn all leads to poor fuel consumption.

I like the idea of Paul's vision, but didn't fancy having the switch up the front. I would more than likely forget to turn the darn thing off anyway, if it was left down to me. I wanted the plus of the solenoid valve with the advantages of automation.

I ended up using this switch.



It is normally closed and opens at 30c. It has the abiltity to handle a 10 amp current as well, which makes life easier on the electrical side of things, as it means I could wire it in series without the need for a relay. Nice on.

Here's a few pics of the switch attached to its wire, ready for fitting.







The next question was where to attach it? I ended up deciding to mount it on the coolant pipe running behind the block underneath the inlet manifold.
This is right by the waterpump but before the thermostat, so quick warm-up should be assured. I just attached it with a couple of jubilee clips, as shown.





I ran the wiring around the manifold support rod, around the main engine bay wiring loom and into the boot space through the bulkhead hole just below the throttle body. I then needed a valve and this turned out to be tougher than I thought. After a trawl of the net I ended going to a local scrapyard to see what they had. I ended up with a air conditioning valve off a vafira or vectra, I can't remember which I did look at a few. I bought a cheap breather filter and stuck that on one end and that is what we have in the picture below



I then mounted this with a bit of stereo installation strap near to the original air filter. I added a bit foam tape around the top of the filter to stop it knocking the bulkhead.
I then took a switched positive feed out of a nearby un-used connector block (cheers Jimi!)
The connector is one for the cruise control, according to Jimi, and the 12v + ignition switched feed is the 4th wire from the left, on the bottom row, when viewed with the connector catch on the top. All I did then was attach an earth wire that went off to the switch. The feed back from the switch and the switched positive are then wired to the valve. Once the switch gets warm enough it cuts the power to the valve and it closes.



Once it was all wired up and working I added a little insulating tape to keep the damp out and hold it all together.



It now fires up without any need for any throttle and idles at 1500rpm when cold. The engine gets warm enough on idle to open the switch in 2 1/2 minutes and the car then is warm enough to run without any further assistance. I think 1500 rpm sounds a fair bit better than the 2500 I'm used to.

It's early days yet, but all seems good. I may end up using a hotter switch if I feel it needs it but the basics are now in place.

Just to finish off I blocked the old waxstat hole off with a healthy squirt of seam sealer.

That's about it I reckon.

[Oldyellow]

I ended up using this switch.

Excellent only question is where did you get the switch

[midenginedmaniac]

Very good. I have been planning to have a go myself. I am going to use a temperature controller with LCD display. That way I can have a digital temperature display also. You will also be able to set it to any temperature you like. I may even add some other sensors for interest.

I have got so much more important things to do first

http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.co ... afb19c.pdf

[spudgun]

I got it from RS electronics. Here's the link.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... 13&x=0&y=0

A word of warning though. Their postage costs are extorsionate. I think they wanted 16 quid to deliver a 1.65 switch.
Luckily my work has an account with them so we just tacked them on a works order.

[spudgun]

Very good. I have been planning to have a go myself. I am going to use a temperature controller with LCD display. That way I can have a digital temperature display also. You will also be able to set it to any temperature you like. I may even add some other sensors for interest.

I have got so much more important things to do first

http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.co ... afb19c.pdf

Impressive!

The trouble is I like to keep my electrics simple as its not my strongest point.
Looks go though.

[midenginedmaniac]

I am an instrument technician like JIMI. I play with controls all day long.

[Oldyellow]

Thanks Spudgun, it's now just a matter of sourcing the components and getting round to doing it.

[jimi]

nice one Spudgun, looking very good.
Check what I have posted on the other thread

[PW@Woodsport]

excellent work spud,i used the same temp switch to control an idle valve on my first supercharged V6,simple yet very effective.

I really dont know why toyota didnt use a simple electrical system like this instead of the orrible waxstat which is quite frankly useless and causes more problems than it solves.

[Oldyellow]

Can anyone please tell me where the VSV is located on the Mk2 I know someone breaking one but he can't find it. (it has air con)

[PW@Woodsport]

its above the coilpack on the rear bulkhead

[Oldyellow]

Cheers Paul

[midenginedmaniac]

A quick question Mr Woods.

The small vacuum pipe that comes off the tvis to what I presume is an airflow swich then back to the air inlet. If this hoze had a leak which it sounds like mine may have would it cause the car to idol high.

When I got the car it was 2.5 K when cold and 1.5 K when warm. Pinch the pipe and it drops to 1K ish. I have adjusted the idol screw for now but i think this is just masking the issue.

The local halfrauds don't have any vacuum pipe.