Cracked Block info

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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by Guest »

Dino, I know what you mean about the gurling. A few times when I was changing the oil on my Tubby I'd heat it up by letting it idle for a little while. The car didn't even move but once I'd shut the engine down I could hear the coolant gurgle.

Looking back the cooling on my tubby (in my short experience/average bhp cars) seems to be pretty good but I guess that's for nothing if there are hots spots within the engine that suffer.

I've gone for a lekky pump in the Rex deliberately to try and deal with hotspots, not so much when the engines running but in the few minutes after it's shut down....perhaps the two engines have more in common than I thought....

Cheers,
Si.
llenrub
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by llenrub »

I read somwhere on here that rev 3 blocks between 93 and 95 had thinner walled blocks, Is this the case?

My engine is in the process of a full rebuild and my rev 2 1992 block is being rebored. Upon reading this thread I'm wondering if I made a big mistake not buying a thick walled block. The engineers never mentioned that it might be worth it.

Your comments would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by MR2Mania »

llenrub wrote:I read somwhere on here that rev 3 blocks between 93 and 95 had thinner walled blocks, Is this the case?


Yes, it is, although we can't clearly say between which years as it doesn't seem to be cast in stone, and Toyota won't official recognise the problem! :?

llenrub wrote:
My engine is in the process of a full rebuild and my rev 2 1992 block is being rebored. Upon reading this thread I'm wondering if I made a big mistake not buying a thick walled block. The engineers never mentioned that it might be worth it.


You *should* be ok, although seeing a recent report of a Rev2 block being thinner than normal, I'd say it's best to check it. Ask your man to get it ultrasonically tested. It's better to pay for that now and be sure, rather than have a costly disaster later, IMHO.

Good luck!
llenrub
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by llenrub »

I've done some searching over the web and can find a fair number of cracked block claims on rev 3's but none on rev 2.

Has anyone on this site experienced a cracked block on their Rev 2 and if so, what was their set up and what do they think may have caused it?
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by MR2Mania »

llenrub wrote:I've done some searching over the web and can find a fair number of cracked block claims on rev 3's but none on rev 2.

Has anyone on this site experienced a cracked block on their Rev 2 and if so, what was their set up and what do they think may have caused it?


Have a search on this forum. I think it was a guy called Simon that mentioned this only a week or two ago. The thread might also have the keyword "Fensport" in it.

Hope this helps.
llenrub
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by llenrub »

I couldn't find it but thanks anyway. I'll contact Fensport tomorrow to get a bit more info on this.
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by MR2Mania »

llenrub wrote:I couldn't find it but thanks anyway. I'll contact Fensport tomorrow to get a bit more info on this.


Here, mate:
http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... c&start=30

It's "Simon W" that has had this problem, but no doubt if you speak to Fensport, they can fill you in more.
llenrub
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by llenrub »

Sh-t. This is a real worry. I'm spending serious money to build a good HP vehicle. Now I'll be too worried to turn the boost up. Luckily I'm not building it so if it blows, I'll wheel it back to the engineers. Ive told them I want reasonable HP but without excessively compromising reliabilty.

After this it better last a long time cos I dont want to spend another penny except for servicing!!
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by MR2Mania »

llenrub wrote:Sh-t. This is a real worry. I'm spending serious money to build a good HP vehicle. Now I'll be too worried to turn the boost up. Luckily I'm not building it so if it blows, I'll wheel it back to the engineers. Ive told them I want reasonable HP but without excessively compromising reliabilty.


Mate, whoever is building the engine, just get them to get it ultrasonically tested. Point out that you want to check the area of the cylinder walls that are thinnest (ie between cylinders).

llenrub wrote:After this it better last a long time cos I dont want to spend another penny except for servicing!!


I'll tell you now that this won't happen! If you go down the route of heavily modifying an engine, then you have to understand that you're compromising something. You may get 100k trouble-free miles, or it might blow within seconds of first firing up.

Think of it this way - look at F1, WRC, FIA GT, any decent motorsport. THey've got MASSIVE budgets (you can't compare in comparison). And they occassionally get a failure because of one tiny little component going. Do you think that with their budgets that their quality control of each component will be lazy? NO aftermarket part supplier can come close in Quality control to these guys. And one small "faulty" component
is all it takes to reduce you to tears and misery! :(

It's the name of the game, mate. :?
llenrub
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by llenrub »

The engine has already been put together so I think its a bit late. The whole project will be finished by the end of this week. I guess the best I can hope for is to run it well within limits and hope for the best.
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by MR2Mania »

llenrub wrote:The engine has already been put together so I think its a bit late. The whole project will be finished by the end of this week. I guess the best I can hope for is to run it well within limits and hope for the best.



Oh well, what's happened has happened.

If it's any consollation, I bought a brand new "thick walled" block and bored it out to suit the +020" pistons I'd already source, only to find out on here a few days ago that apparently even some new thick walled blocks have come in a bit thin.

But I'm philosophical about it. At least it's on the road - for now! [touches the nearest peace of wood, firmly!]
llenrub
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by llenrub »

Another thought is, If the block were to crack am I right to assume that it wouldn't completely destroy the engine and I could use re-use the parts or am I way off. It feels awfull to be thinking like this!

By the way, I'm sure we spoke on the phone recently. I'm the chap having the rebuild done by PTS in Luton.
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by MR2Mania »

llenrub wrote:Another thought is, If the block were to crack am I right to assume that it wouldn't completely destroy the engine and I could use re-use the parts or am I way off. It feels awfull to be thinking like this!


Well, from the ones that I've seen crack, there doesn't appear to have been a lot of damage. You'd have to ideally replace the rings if you had to rebuild, so if the crack managed to snag a ring, this would be no biggy, as long as it didn't damage the piston's ring land in the process. So, I doubt you'd get a major failure. For a start, you'd have to be ignoring the tell tale sign for some time. The way people have known they had an issue was when the coolant temp would rise as if it was a boost gauge (ie coolant temp rises with boost). If you acted early, you could well avoid any major damage.

llenrub wrote:
By the way, I'm sure we spoke on the phone recently. I'm the chap having the rebuild done by PTS in Luton.


Yes, we did mate! So I gather things are coming along well then?
Simarshy
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by Simarshy »

Interest Post.

So with people who may potential have a thin walled block, is it safe to do any modifications to the engine?

Would modifications such as Trd Radiator Cap, Decat Exhaust, AirFilter and Intercooler be fine? But Ecu (Standalone/Piggy Back) and or Boost Controllers be a potential problem causer?

Thanks

Si
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by MR2Mania »

Simarshy wrote:Interest Post.

So with people who may potential have a thin walled block, is it safe to do any modifications to the engine?

Would modifications such as Trd Radiator Cap, Decat Exhaust, AirFilter and Intercooler be fine? But Ecu (Standalone/Piggy Back) and or Boost Controllers be a potential problem causer?

Thanks

Si


I think bolt on mods would be fine. The Rev3 blocks that I've seen crack had been subjected to more than 300bhp. I suspect that mine was a thin walled block, but I ran mine at 330bhp for some time and nothing happened (other than I had a lot of fun! :D).

I wouldn't let it stop you from doing bolt ons. It's when you start REALLY pushing the mod boat out that you become at risk.
Dino
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llenrub
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by llenrub »

I am in luck. They head is not on yet so I can get it tested. If it is thin they can replace it with another block they already have (assuming it measures up).
llenrub
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by llenrub »

It has been suggested to me that I should go for new liners. What do you think?
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by MR2Mania »

llenrub wrote:It has been suggested to me that I should go for new liners. What do you think?


Personally, I wouldn't do it! I've seen some REAL bad jobs done with liners, and have actually seen a SCARY failure from one where the liner slipped and the piston rings went above the liner! :shock:

People like Fensport that are pushing the boundaries of what's possible with the 3SGTE block may be forced down this route, but then again, they do have an AMAZING engine build company that do the work for them, and that know the engine very well! I wouldn't trust anyone else to do it, personally. That's just my opinion though.
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llenrub
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by llenrub »

I asked Paul at PTS if they could test it locally, they said they could but the firm who would do it said that for the cost of shipping and testing I'd be better offf going straight for the liners. Apparently many big HP vehicles go for this option and as long as it is done well the risks are less than a cracked block.

It seems to me that there are risks no matter what option I take. I asked him to phone Fensport about this issue, I listened in and they were much more cautious in what they said to him giving a much less serious impression. They didnt know I was listening (bit naughty)

I guess it down to who do I trust and who has the most to loose or gain from this. PTS already have the vehicle and will get paid what ever I choose. They have done all the work on my vehicle including rectifying other peoples work. I have been completely happy with everything they have done.

I'll do a bit more research before I make a final decision.

Thanks for your input!
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Re: Cracked Block info

Post by MR2Mania »

llenrub wrote:I asked Paul at PTS if they could test it locally, they said they could but the firm who would do it said that for the cost of shipping and testing I'd be better offf going straight for the liners. Apparently many big HP vehicles go for this option and as long as it is done well the risks are less than a cracked block.


If it ain't broke, don't fix it! At the moment, you're speculating as to whether your block is too thin or not. As has been mentioned, I've only heard of ONE Rev2 block being under spec, compared to several for the Rev3.

I don't think you should get it linered. PTS do not know the 3SGTE very well (remember, you got me to call them a while back!), so I would not recommend they liner it based purely on speculation.

If they can't get it ultrasonically tested easily (I don't see why not - AFAIK Fraser now has a small little kit that he can carry to any location), then I'd personally rather risk it and have them carry on building it as is.
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