Cam belt!

[Davidbeaven]

Righty,

Im taking th plung and doing my cam belt this week end, (got two days off work just in case ),

Does any one know the timing settings for a mk2 1994 uk spec N/A?

Cheers

Dave

[Tickover]

Hi Dave
Can you let me know how you get on and how akward it is..

Cheers

Tickover

[Davidbeaven]

Yer,

(assuming i can get timings)

Im gonna do a cheacky how to if i get time.

pictures and all!

Dave

[Kelvyn]

If you mean the cam timing positions then as long as you dont turn the crank or cams while you have the belt off there should be nothing to time.
If you should disturb anything just check out the online BGB http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/ ... anical.htm
check the timing belt section. Hope you've got plenty of skin on your knuckles, you're probably going to have less afterwards.

[Davidbeaven]

Cheers big ears.

I'll start a swear pot as well then i can go for a pint afterwards!

Ta much

Dave

[Lauren]

The timing marks will be little dimples on the cam wheels and on the crank pulley. look at the manual.

I'd set it up at TDC first then check that the cams and crank are aligned as they should be, rather than just slipping the old belt off and putting the new one as the cam wheels always move a little.

[James_Ward]

One way to do it is to cut the belt in half along the direction that it rotates, leaving a half width strip keeping the pulleys timed correctly, then slip the new belt on the half width of pulley that is exposed and cut the rest of the old belt off. Did it on my MK1 the first time, seemed to work ok.... I found I needed to take the spark plugs out so the engine would turn easily. You'll need a really sharp knife though, the cambelt is surprisingly tough!

HTH
Jim

[SUBO2356]

How i did it on a previous car was to put a dot of white paint on the top pulley and belt, and also on the bottom pulley and belt. took belt off then transfered the marks to the new belt so it would go on in the exact same position.

AJS

[Davidbeaven]

No goood, no good!

Tried heat, cold, 1.5m long bars, etc etc. no good

Not going to try the starter motor method as it is just dangerous.

Any ideas?

main problem is trying to hold the crank still while undoing the bolt.

Aghhhh

Dave

[AM TUNING]

if u prevent the engine from starting , using the starter is a perfect way of undooing the crank bolt ,,

the only other way u will do it is remove the starter and use a screw driver to hold the flywheel in place (which WILL slip )

or take it to a garage and let them do it

[Bender Unit]

Dave,

Have you sorted it? I am happy to help if you need it?

Ring spanner and rubber mallet work for me Or just hit it with a shoe!

I also have a crank puller if you need one?

Cheers

James

[Vindezal]

One way to do it is to cut the belt in half along the direction that it rotates, leaving a half width strip keeping the pulleys timed correctly, then slip the new belt on the half width of pulley that is exposed and cut the rest of the old belt off. Did it on my MK1 the first time, seemed to work ok.... I found I needed to take the spark plugs out so the engine would turn easily. You'll need a really sharp knife though, the cambelt is surprisingly tough!
HTH
Jim

I hope so for £350.. thats THREE HUNDRED AND FIFTY POUNDS AT TOYOTA! sorry (its tough)

[Dave Couzens]

Dave,

Have you sorted it? I am happy to help if you need it?

Ring spanner and rubber mallet work for me Or just hit it with a shoe!

I also have a crank puller if you need one?

Cheers

James

James - that's my technique! And you can't steal it! It's copyrighted!!!

[Ian Geary]

MR2s and bolts just don't like to be seperated (which I suppose is mostly a good thing).

My Dad and I managed to undo every nut and bolt whilst removnig the engine except for the crank pulley nut!

We used ring spanners, heat, sockets with breaker bars and gas pipes on the end as well as a big hammer, but the bolt has just ended up turning into a circle.

Can you stop the crank turning by locking the wheels? We had angle iron on the wheel bolts to stop the crank going round, and it endedup bending the iron.

We ended up cheating and giving it to an engine shop to undo, but the solution would have been to weld a nut onto the bolt and undo that.

Have you tried an impact driver? The shock sometimes helps losen things. The nut hangs just low enough to get access from underneath.

Buy the best socket you can to prevent damage to the bolt though.

Good luck with it

Ian

[Bender Unit]

James - that's my technique! And you can't steal it! It's copyrighted!!!

lol It’s a tried and tested method.

Have you copyrighted all forms of footwear being used as weapons or is the copyright solely on “Ninja throwing trainers”?

[JJ]

main problem is trying to hold the crank still while undoing the bolt.

Left rear wheel on the floor, right wheel off.... jam the car in gear and jam a extension bar between the wheel studs an the brake caliper = immobilsation - unless your clutch is crap !

You need some really thin welding rod too to prgress with the job !

I find timing belts easy these days !!!

[Dave Couzens]

lol It’s a tried and tested method.

Have you copyrighted all forms of footwear being used as weapons or is the copyright solely on “Ninja throwing trainers”?

All forms -

Plus the occasional beating with a spade

[Davidbeaven]

Tried the lot.

MR2s and bolts just don't like to be seperated (which I suppose is mostly a good thing).

My Dad and I managed to undo every nut and bolt whilst removnig the engine except for the crank pulley nut!

We used ring spanners, heat, sockets with breaker bars and gas pipes on the end as well as a big hammer, but the bolt has just ended up turning into a circle.

Can you stop the crank turning by locking the wheels? We had angle iron on the wheel bolts to stop the crank going round, and it endedup bending the iron.

We ended up cheating and giving it to an engine shop to undo, but the solution would have been to weld a nut onto the bolt and undo that.

Have you tried an impact driver? The shock sometimes helps losen things. The nut hangs just low enough to get access from underneath.

Buy the best socket you can to prevent damage to the bolt though.

Good luck with it

Ian

We had bolts going into the pully and a crow bar jamming it up and sheared the bolts.
Try holt cold, impact wench, and if kicking it counts as using a shoe then ive tried that too.

Im going to make the Dave Beaven equivalent of the Mr T SST.

Im not one or bodging things. ive seensome nasty acidents because of it.

Ta

[Zippy]

Put the car in 5th gear and pull the handbrake nice and tight, and get a breaker bar on it - worked for me !.

I tried blipping the starter with a breaker bar on - without success (and with a great deal of cringing).

To maintain cam timing, i tippexed a mark on a tooth of each cam pulley and tippexed on the teeth either side on the old cambelt. Did the same for the crank pully.

then simply transfered the marks to the new belt, counting the teeth between (several times ) as long as you dont move anything too much you're fine

[Davidbeaven]

Tried it, and had a foot on the break also, it just made the engine rock on it's mounts and eventualy slip against the brake.

I recon my one is extra tight!