by adding a g valve and fcd, how much power gains??

[steve b]

thats right, on the turbo its situated in the down pipe below the turbo. you can either smash the existing cat out of the original pipe, get a decat pipe from Blitz or go the full replacment downpipe, most people get the full downpipe replacement.

We just had a group buy go on, we easily got 5 people so i'm sure another will occur again at somepoint else they cost between the £200 - £300 mark Hyper SR, Aussie, extremeboost, KO do them. Also jimbob on here makes them (that was the group buy).

[stevecordiner]

b0ll0cks!! Imoc hung when I tried to post a long thread!

The performance of mildly tweeked tubbys is similar no matter what the revision until you get onto big gulfs in power. The key for that is torque

Take a look at this http://www.mr2mania.com/plot.php

Plot dino's rev 1 at stage 4 against the rev 3 at stage 4. Notice that the rev 1 makes 280lbs of torque and the rev 3 makes 287lbs - but they are running very different boost levels.

The early cars are very very torquey even if they dont generate the same hp - hence why the cars are similar in performance.

Rev 3's make better hp simply due to little things like a much better intake manifold design, hotter intake cam, larger throttle body. Its all stuff that will be most beneficial at high rpm and gas flow.

[jimGTS]

b0ll0cks!! Imoc hung when I tried to post a long thread!

The performance of mildly tweeked tubbys is similar no matter what the revision until you get onto big gulfs in power. The key for that is torque

Take a look at this http://www.mr2mania.com/plot.php

Plot dino's rev 1 at stage 4 against the rev 3 at stage 4. Notice that the rev 1 makes 280lbs of torque and the rev 3 makes 287lbs - but they are running very different boost levels.

The early cars are very very torquey even if they dont generate the same hp - hence why the cars are similar in performance.

Rev 3's make better hp simply due to little things like a much better intake manifold design, hotter intake cam, larger throttle body. Its all stuff that will be most beneficial at high rpm and gas flow.

so really, rev1/2 are about torque more importantly??
that why they can get just as good, or very close 1/4 mile times to a rev3.
is this right???

[stevecordiner]

Its numerous factors Jim - or atleast thats what I think.

The early cars are higher compression which will spool a turbo quicker. Most lightly modded MR2's run around 100-105 down the 1/4, so the high rpm difference between the cars will only be seen really in 3rd gear as 1st and 2nd will be gone through very quickly in both cars, where as on the change to 4th the early car will spool up a tad quicker.

I'd say if you put a rev 2 and rev 3 side by side in 3rd - the rev 3 will pull on the rev 2 but not by much. We're talking 30-40hp on a 280-300hp cars, on a hot day you'll lose more hp than that. I've played with enough MR2's going down the road to know that they all perform pretty similarly with similar mods.


Edit:

Having said all that, I've seen some american guys with rev 3 engine swaps pull low 12 second 1/4 mile passes with minimal mods!

[jimGTS]

Its numerous factors Jim - or atleast thats what I think.

The early cars are higher compression which will spool a turbo quicker. Most lightly modded MR2's run around 100-105 down the 1/4, so the high rpm difference between the cars will only be seen really in 3rd gear as 1st and 2nd will be gone through very quickly in both cars, where as on the change to 4th the early car will spool up a tad quicker.

I'd say if you put a rev 2 and rev 3 side by side in 3rd - the rev 3 will pull on the rev 2 but not by much. We're talking 30-40hp on a 280-300hp cars, on a hot day you'll lose more hp than that. I've played with enough MR2's going down the road to know that they all perform pretty similarly with similar mods.

so ideally, if i put on a gvalve, fcd, and new rotor and dissy (i think it would be a good idea if i updated these, as i have new oil/oil filter, plugs already), and wacked boost up to 15psi. i should infact be approaching standard rev3 tubby performance, or maybe better?? (if i can gain more than 20bhp).

i want to attend some 1/4track days this year, and try my hand at doing some times. (be my first go).

im not after big bhp, and massive power. i think id only like to get up to around 250bhp, id be happy with that.

[jimGTS]

Its numerous factors Jim - or atleast thats what I think.

The early cars are higher compression which will spool a turbo quicker. Most lightly modded MR2's run around 100-105 down the 1/4, so the high rpm difference between the cars will only be seen really in 3rd gear as 1st and 2nd will be gone through very quickly in both cars, where as on the change to 4th the early car will spool up a tad quicker.

I'd say if you put a rev 2 and rev 3 side by side in 3rd - the rev 3 will pull on the rev 2 but not by much. We're talking 30-40hp on a 280-300hp cars, on a hot day you'll lose more hp than that. I've played with enough MR2's going down the road to know that they all perform pretty similarly with similar mods.


Edit:

Having said all that, I've seen some american guys with rev 3 engine swaps pull low 12 second 1/4 mile passes with minimal mods!

yeh but those mad yanks wack boost up to 20psi on 1/4 runs!! (on standard inturnals)

[stevecordiner]

Providing you aren't using the stock ct26 you should have no trouble running low 13 second 1/4's just like a rev 3 does. With a ct20b on my car at 14psi I could run consistant 13.2-13.3 times

[jimGTS]

Providing you aren't using the stock ct26 you should have no trouble running low 13 second 1/4's just like a rev 3 does. With a ct20b on my car at 14psi I could run consistant 13.2-13.3 times

bit confused by that.
ive a standard engine as far as im aware.

so what turbo should i have??

are you saying with stock turbo, the cars no good?

[steve b]

Providing you aren't using the stock ct26 you should have no trouble running low 13 second 1/4's just like a rev 3 does. With a ct20b on my car at 14psi I could run consistant 13.2-13.3 times

bit confused by that.
ive a standard engine as far as im aware.

so what turbo should i have??

are you saying with stock turbo, the cars no good?

don't worry, just going a bit off subject, the turbos on the 1989 - 1992 cars run out of puff at the top of the rev range, the 1993 on turbos don't they also run higher boost as standard. Nothing wrong with the stock CT26 turbo its just that realistically it can't be run above 1 bar as it becomes pointless due to the heat of the charge (unless you've upgraded cooling).

[stevecordiner]

The standard ct26 is a little useless above 6k-6.5k rpm. If doing the 1/4 change at around 6-6.5k with an early car. If you get a basic hybrid on or a ct20b from a rev 3 it will help to be able to get more power at the top 1,000rpm.

Even with a stock ct26 JJ managed a 13.1, so you just need to do the right tweeks

[Shadow]

Even with a stock ct26 JJ managed a 13.1, so you just need to do the right tweeks

Or the right driver

[Andrew Edwards]

While this is being debated just a quick question. About to have rev 1 turbo engine fitted but i have a CT20b waiting in the spare room too as i was advised about the power drop off with the CT26!! I am also having a decat, exhaust, an FCD and an AVC-r fitted.
The comments about changing the timing have worried me slightly though-is this an essential thing to do if i want to run 14-15 psi?
oh, and what bhp should i expect?

[Al-sw20]

Changing the timing? Leave the timing alone and run decent fuel. At the track i run 18psi with 100 octane leaded race fuel. Stock timing, and knock sensor has never pulled back timing once on the track.

Decat...are you gutting the stock cat or getting a downpipe fitted, sorry im not up with the play on uk terminology.

And the fcd....since you have a decent electronic boost controller being fitted along with a turbo that isnt known to boost spike why are you wasting money on a fcd? Just pull the boost pressure sensor hose out .

[Andrew Edwards]

I am getting a new downpipe fitted.
Is it not safer to have the FCD just in case?

[Al-sw20]

Yeah its safer, but with proper boost control and the ct20b it wont spike.

Even at 18psi my ct20b doesnt creep/spike at all.....and because of the pressure drop of the stock intercooler the turbo is more than likely pushing in excess of 20psi

[Andrew Edwards]

Would you hazard a guess at bhp or 1/4 mile times with the set up i am getting?
You don't have any problems running the boost that high?

[Al-sw20]

I dont guess 1/4 times because theres too many variables, the main one being the driver, but I would guess trapspeed. With what your gonna be running, 105mph should be easily possible on 15psi.

I only run 18psi on 100 octane racegas, and been no problems so far

[Mikejc]

Even with the race fuel it is not advised to run such high boost pressures without improving on the cooling and fueling!

Mikejc

[Hellboy]

I made 231BHP and 249 lbs ft, Hks Hi-power silent exhast , primary cat collapsed/melted (is being gutted now) and 13psi of boost @manafold and ran no air filer when run.

After Cat gutting , I have a RR day on the 27th of this month and will run 15psi manafold , should get 240 to 250 bhp without the collapsed cat and and some more lbs/ft .


Will let ya know