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jimGTS wrote:pps, you saying the wheel power loss was roughly 50-60bhp????????
I commented to Brook quite early on in the day about 60BHP being a high loss figure, but it appeared to be consistent with the tubbies as the day progressed. It works out (for me) to about a 21% power loss from flywheel to roadwheel...much higher than I expected. Maybe. 
-*- Mk2 Turbo Rev2 -*- Mk1 NA -*- Mk2 Turbo Rev 3 = all gone!"Cruisey, Sporty, more innovation, more adult. A Man In Dandism. Powered mid-ship specialty."................. 
- doesnt sound as good as 242 though!
lolIan Geary wrote:Not being pedantic or anything, but my engine bh/p was actually 254bh/p
"corrected" figures are your power figures corrected to the SAE standards. That is, that is the power that your car would make if it was run at the 'industry standard' air pressure, air temperature and humidity (as defined by the Society of Automotive Engineers). In other words, it's the figure you can compare between different days - since every dyno run is 'corrected' to the same figures, you remove the variables.'corrected' figures should still match, since they remove the (large) variables of air temperature, pressure and humidity (all three of which affect oxygen per unit volume of atmosphere).jimGTS wrote:weight has nothing to do with it IMHO, weight of the wheels anyway, geez, im sure the 0-10kg in difference in wheels doesnt matter to much considering you have over half a ton on the rear wheels anyway!
- in that way, having lightweight wheels is just the same as fitting a lightweight flywheel (and we all agree that will help you rev more easily, right?).DannyW wrote:178.3 at the wheels for me, just trying to find a sharp enough knife to slit my wrists with now.
Just think of it as a minor glitch in your quest for more power! 
-*- Mk2 Turbo Rev2 -*- Mk1 NA -*- Mk2 Turbo Rev 3 = all gone!"Cruisey, Sporty, more innovation, more adult. A Man In Dandism. Powered mid-ship specialty."aaronjb wrote:
jimGTS wrote:weight has nothing to do with it IMHO, weight of the wheels anyway, geez, im sure the 0-10kg in difference in wheels doesnt matter to much considering you have over half a ton on the rear wheels anyway!
I would have thought the weight of the rotating masses involved would have an effect on how easily the engine power was transferred to the road, though
................(0.9bar) first time around, (0.9bar), and ive a rev2............would be a good 20whp up on that for sure..... 
........Nige wrote:DannyW wrote:178.3 at the wheels for me, just trying to find a sharp enough knife to slit my wrists with now.
Aw noooo!
..... ](./images/smilies/eusa_wall.gif "Brick wall"){kind=small}
DannyW wrote:Nige wrote:DannyW wrote:178.3 at the wheels for me, just trying to find a sharp enough knife to slit my wrists with now.
Aw noooo!
Hmm suppose.
..............(wheres that god dam power gone, lol)........(exact words of the RR operator) and it happens at exactly 5000rpm and above. which tells me the ECU can't cope with the extra boost and is just opening the injectors to 100%, checked for error codes and got nothing so it's not a sensor or anything gone down.(does look like mine was spinning up and hitting boost cut) therefor the the given reading on my dyno chart can be classed as INACURATE because of the lack of boost pressure measurment at the given peak power out put (he also said that mine was 300 @fly at 1Bar according to their figuresDannyW wrote:yes Jim, feels fine on the roads, can't really test it a the minute though, damn ice!
It's not just running a bit rich, its mega-mega rich
Next steps will be to replace plugs, dizzy cap and rotor arm then to get and fit a greddy emanage or similar.
Once all that is up and running properly, i'll fit my rev3 gearbox and Greddy TD06 turbo and downpipe.
Just need a serious cash injection, Damn christmas always gets in the way!!!
(love em really, lol), rev3s dont appear to be getting mishaps like this................also a very good idea if you still got it, to put the stock bov on, just to see mate....(get one with a guage)...then the turbo, then the ecu (or perhaps the last 2 at the same time)............Dangerous wrote:Well I just spoke to nod@thor and he reckons the dyno reading is all over the place
It is far more likely your car was spinning up and causing him problems so he part throttled it so he could complete the run. The other plot with the weird end shaping is pure roller break away as that's the same effect our Dynapack exibites when you hit a boost limiter or suffer clutch slip as the holding torque is reduced to compensate for the sudden lack of applied torque.jimGTS wrote:
really strange, mate, what is it and these god dam rev1/2s, dam crap, lol
i would personally check the leads, plugs, clean the dissy cap.
make sure your running stock 10degrees.
i actually put on a blitz bov, and my car felt better!! madness really!
sod the ecu mate!!! thats mega bicks, sort out your fueling first!!
get a downpipe and use a afpr to sort out your fueling
im not getting a piggyback or ecu for a while dude, im getting afpr first, then bigger turbo, then fuel rail, then pump, THEN maybe a ecu/piggyback!!
altho, all relative i suppose, all cars are different i guess.
tried the standard dump valve and made no difference. Timing is stock 10degBTDC. Nevermind though, onwards and upwards.DannyW wrote:
Just frustrating when you see standard cars getting such good results then mine which has had shedloads spent on it getting crap results.
....."so called standard power", infact is there such a thing as a stock rev1/2 anymore, lol.......(with shire excitment of super power).....ill be getting a bigger turbo soon, but i would say, my advice is to sort out your issues first, because you certainly wouldnt wona spend 500-1500 on a turbo and still not get the potential out of it! 
DannyW wrote:jimGTS wrote:
really strange, mate, what is it and these god dam rev1/2s, dam crap, lol
i would personally check the leads, plugs, clean the dissy cap.
make sure your running stock 10degrees.
i actually put on a blitz bov, and my car felt better!! madness really!
sod the ecu mate!!! thats mega bicks, sort out your fueling first!!
get a downpipe and use a afpr to sort out your fueling
im not getting a piggyback or ecu for a while dude, im getting afpr first, then bigger turbo, then fuel rail, then pump, THEN maybe a ecu/piggyback!!
altho, all relative i suppose, all cars are different i guess.
piggyback will sort my fueling, that's the whole point of it Jim.
The TD06 ive got has a downpipe with it too so im not getting a different one until i can afford to fit that one.
!!!!! 
Import wrote:189rwhp for me, i've always read bhp as fly tbh
"normal" peeps no about and "understand" wheel hp???? none!!! i can understand your reasoning, but in thw world of cars in this division, whp is what counts!!