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Can anyone give me some advice such as the best rpm to change at? will I be quicker if I remove the t-bar? any crash diet tips etc etc.
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Moderators: IMOC Moderators, IMOC Committee Members
jonno wrote:Drop the pressure in your rear tyres, try something like 18-20psi.
Gee Man wrote:jonno wrote:Drop the pressure in your rear tyres, try something like 18-20psi.
I heard when i was at santa pod not 2 drop the pressure in your tyres as that when you blow the gearbox/drive train? Or can the 2 take the power? Draggin this sunday i dont want it 2break!!!!
ENSMR2 wrote:Go on a dyno, see where the power starts to drop off and change gear then?
Makes sense to me.
Matty_GTS wrote:Mark- what you mean side step the clutch?
JekylandHyde wrote:
Warning:If you are using a regular street tire doing a burnout is
a very bad idea.
You will actually make the tire slipperier and you will will struggle for traction.
On a regular street tire just do a dry hop
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one dump of the clutch to spin debris off of the tire.
If the track puts down water for burnouts, drive aroud it.
quigonjay wrote:
quite a statement there jeff
peeps on here have always recommended doing a burnout
is there any evidence to backup the statement about making your tyres slippier?(i think thats how you spell it
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surprised to see you didnt mention drag radials as well? or is there not much point using them with not much more than stock power?
Jay
The biggest crowd pleaser in drag racing may also be the least necessary.Unless your car really needs a big burnout, in most cases you can spare your tires the wear and tear.
With BFGoodrichs drag radials, for example, an excessive burnout can produce small rubber balls that react like
greasy ball bearings and can cause poor 60-foot times from the loss of traction.
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Street tired cars should not do a big smoky burnout.The rubber in street tires is designed to operate best at typical ambient temperatures.
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The tires get slipperier, not stickier, when they get too hot.