(Honda tech told me that?) which is why they are only any good when stationary anyway.... i.e no boost so no heat[Mk2] [Turbo] Charge Cooler Fan
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Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Charge Cooler Fan
I thought engine fans pushed hot air OUT rather than suck cold air IN (Honda tech told me that?) which is why they are only any good when stationary anyway.... i.e no boost so no heat
(Honda tech told me that?) which is why they are only any good when stationary anyway.... i.e no boost so no heatRe: [Mk2] [Turbo] Charge Cooler Fan
If someone can post data .. fans at idle and -15mph or higher cools intake air temps im in 
I had a intercooler fan and it made no difference to iat's.. low or high rpm 
.. fans at idle and -15mph or higher cools intake air temps im in I had a intercooler fan and it made no difference to iat's
.. low or high rpm Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Charge Cooler Fan
androo007 wrote:I thought engine fans pushed hot air OUT rather than suck cold air IN
Who cares how a front-engined Honda works?
On the mid-engined Toyota SW20 the radiator fans are nowhere near the engine bay! They're mounted to the back of the radiator and pull cold air through the radiators
(in order: CC pre-rad, aircon condensor, engine radiator) and then the hot air is directed under the car 
Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Charge Cooler Fan
I've found out a bit more about the whole subject now. There's a thing called an AC amplifier which is located under the dash, secured to the car's heater. This needs to stay in situ as it operates 3 relays which are in the frunk fuse box, and these too must be left as they operate the different speeds that the fans run at. There is also a pressure sensor in the frunk, which can be got rid of if you join the 2 wires coming out of it together. If you have 4 wires then I believe it's the red and black that need joining together. Here's one for you Shinny, some bloke's explanation on how the relays in the frunk work. Good tip of yours on how to override and switch fans on manually.
"Ok explanation of how the circuit basically works.
Pin 5 on relay 1 has 12 volts applied at all times.
Pins numbered 1 on both relays have 12 volts applied when you turn the key to ignition.
As soon as relay 1 gets its 12volts(from the key going to ignition) it turns on and power flows thru its coil to ground.
Pin 3 of relay 1 then gets conneceted to pin 5 and 12 volts(permanently connected remember) goes down that pin across the relay internally, thru the 30 amp protection fuse and into the Pin 3 of the second relay, across to its pin 5 and from there to the fan motor which spins continuously if relay 2 is NOT turned on.
Relay 2 gets turned ON when you turn the key to ignition, but ONLY if the fan switch is closed circuit. This is why if you jumper the fan switch the fans *should* turn off.
If they dont, it means theres a break in the switched 12 volts supply to relay 2.
A lot of people get confused with this circuit cos it works ass backwards to most normal types, but its really a smarter way to do it as the fan will always work if the circuitry develops a fault."
There's a thing called an AC amplifier which is located under the dash, secured to the car's heater. This needs to stay in situ as it operates 3 relays which are in the frunk fuse box, and these too must be left as they operate the different speeds that the fans run at. There is also a pressure sensor in the frunk, which can be got rid of if you join the 2 wires coming out of it together. If you have 4 wires then I believe it's the red and black that need joining together. Here's one for you Shinny, some bloke's explanation on how the relays in the frunk work. Good tip of yours on how to override and switch fans on manually."Ok explanation of how the circuit basically works.Pin 5 on relay 1 has 12 volts applied at all times.
Pins numbered 1 on both relays have 12 volts applied when you turn the key to ignition.
As soon as relay 1 gets its 12volts
(from the key going to ignition) it turns on and power flows thru its coil to ground.Pin 3 of relay 1 then gets conneceted to pin 5 and 12 volts
(permanently connected remember) goes down that pin across the relay internally, thru the 30 amp protection fuse and into the Pin 3 of the second relay, across to its pin 5 and from there to the fan motor which spins continuously if relay 2 is NOT turned on.Relay 2 gets turned ON when you turn the key to ignition, but ONLY if the fan switch is closed circuit.
This is why if you jumper the fan switch the fans *should* turn off.If they dont, it means theres a break in the switched 12 volts supply to relay 2.
A lot of people get confused with this circuit cos it works ass backwards to most normal types, but its really a smarter way to do it as the fan will always work if the circuitry develops a fault.
"Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Charge Cooler Fan
Seeing an explanation without a diagram is confusing at best!!
So here are some diagrams...
Without aircon: http://shinny.co.uk/toyota/MR2_SW_1993_ ... /radel.pdf
With aircon: http://shinny.co.uk/toyota/MR2_SW_1993_ ... delect.pdf
Actually, the first line of that description doesn't tally with any diagram I have. it's closest to this diagram (which is a repeat of the "with aircon", but trickier to read, despite the colours: http://shinny.co.uk/toyota/MR2_SW_1993_ ... radair.pdf
So here are some diagrams.
..Without aircon: http://shinny.co.uk/toyota/MR2_SW_1993_ ... /radel.pdf
With aircon: http://shinny.co.uk/toyota/MR2_SW_1993_ ... delect.pdf
Actually, the first line of that description doesn't tally with any diagram I have.
it's closest to this diagram (which is a repeat of the "with aircon", but trickier to read, despite the colours: http://shinny.co.uk/toyota/MR2_SW_1993_ ... radair.pdf