Rev2's vs Rev3's?

[Ryan S]

Correct but if i'm understanding this properly I think he's saying that there could be crap gathered in the hole where the stud goes. My block has been acid dipped so I'm hoping there won't be any crap anywhere whatsoever!

[masterbateson]

If there's cack down the bore, how the fudge do you get it out?


This is going off on a tangent, but to save starting a new thread, and as there are 2 experts online, whats the crack with the below info?

I've lost page now so cant cut n paste but.

Basic jist was that mk2turbos have different brakes to standard? I was led to believe that all mk2's brakes were the same?

I was under the impression that ment single piston sliding cllipers, but the page i was reading alluded to the mk2turbos being twin piston?

so whats the crack 1 or 2 same or no same?

Only wondering as i was looking at a conversion car fri,and what if they didnt change the brakes, if the above is true.

[Ryan S]

A crack in the bore is terminal, you bin it. A Score in the bore you can bore it out, Personally I wouldn't use bigger pistons than stock size (86mm).

Brakes are the same from rev2 onwards N/A or turbo. No idea where you got that other info

Edit: to clarify the rev1 brakes and suspension is different from rev2 onwards.

[mr2magic]

1) sheppy: I hope it wasn't acid dipped, but hot tanked or lye dipped. I would still chase the threads anyway

2) if the bore is cracked and you have access to a supply of used ones, I would get another. If blocks are hard to come by you could consider sleeving. But you should discuss this with your engine builder. With regards to overboring the block I see no real problem...I myself have 87mm.

3) all mr2 brakes are single piston. From model year 93 onwards the brakes were made somewhat larger to combat brake fade

[Ryan S]

Whichever kind of dipping that completely clears out the water ways etc is the one I had done, I could have pressure washed it at work but leaving the machine shop to do it was the easiest option for me.

As I said I don't know much about sleeving other than it costing a lot

[masterbateson]

Im on me comp at the mo, but I'll dig my laptop out latter and root through its history, see if i can find that duff info re the brakes.
I thought as soon as i read it, it was wrong as someone had already clued me up re brakes.

I had asked about it on a previous thread,as i was surprised they didnt fit better brakes to the turbo's


Maybe that other thread i am going to hunt down, the guy perhaps had a car he'd bought with maybe celica gt4 callipers on? or perhaps he was just talking out his gasket.

[masterbateson]

BTW i wasnt talking about a crack in the cylinders, I was just saying how do you get (cack)or muck/debris out of a bore /thread for your head bolts/studs????

As mate was referring to.


One thing I am curious about, do we think with head bolts, that the thread in the block goes full length? or is just top 2 to 3 inch threaded? and
2: Do we think that the tap on the block for the head bolts are fractionally longer than the head bolts?

If so it wouldnt matter if there was a bit of muck down the bore/thread as it would just get pushed down into the spare space beyond the bolt.
If you follow me.

[thomp1983]

Ironically you should know from owning an mg about cleaning head bolt holes, theres plenty information on stripped head bolt threads from where owners don't clean the holes try to torque the head down and strip the threads because the oil left in the holes won't compress/has nowhere to go.

That principle applies to all engines that use a blind hole for head bolts as for how tolerant an engine is to it and what part will fail as a result and when can differ between engines from undertorqued heads to stripped bolt holes, to cracked blocks to no ill effects at all it's a lottery.

As for how to clean them, for a full rebuild a drip and strip is the way to go, doing a head gasket swap in situ i tend to use a syringe and pipe for the worst of it then kitchen towel and a poking stick then blow out with compressed air. Ive never chased out threads, not saying im against it but then ive never built an engine over 350bhp either. Probably more importantly ill feel how the bolts feel when put in by hand, ive never felt any binding personally if i did then yes id chase the holes and reasses things on a similar vein ive reused heads bolts if they measure well in spec and never had issues.

[kev8611]

3) all mr2 brakes are single piston. From model year 93 onwards the brakes were made somewhat larger to combat brake fade

My front brakes are twin piston

[2mad]

3) all mr2 brakes are single piston. From model year 93 onwards the brakes were made somewhat larger to combat brake fade

My front brakes are twin piston

Mine too , rears are single piston

[mr2magic]

You are of course correct, my bad! The fronts are twin piston, the rears are single.

Sorry for the confusion

[Al-sw20]

Cars are made of steel and steel rusts a lot.

The only way you're going to get one with no rust is if it's had a full money no object resto...

Or you live in a country that doesn't salt their roads.

[QUOC2008]

Would a evo 9 engine 4g64 swap work lol... just wondering as that would be the ultimate swap tons of power and torque across a big power band i would think... hmm just making it work would be hard

Well i went for a complete caldina engine... seems to be ok

[masterbateson]

on a previous post in this thread someone mentioned the injectors re getting more power out, and i think you can use supra ones.

But.

Would i be right in saying that you cant just swap injectors for larger ones and expect to get more power out of your engine?

I would have thought that you would need to remap or adjust your tuning, and if i remember correctly, cant you get bore wash if you just bung in larger injectors with no other adjustments?

[Peter Gidden]

Would i be right in saying that you cant just swap injectors for larger ones and expect to get more power out of your engine?

Ask yourself if it were that simple why in 30 years of EFI, not one car manufacturer has stumbled across the idea...

[Ryan S]

All you'd get is more fuel all the time accross the entire rev range including idle and cold starts. I'm not sure of the car would even start.

[masterbateson]

Let me make it clear, i was not posting about this because i was going to do it or thought it was a good idea.

I just wanted to confirm with someone and point out that doing so is a stupid idea that wont work.

Shame it doesnt work though or I'd be straight down the scrap yard.

Talking of scrap yards though, if whilst i am rummaging around the scrap yards, what turbo/turbo's do supras have?

Any use getting one if the price is right?

[Ryan S]

Ct20 off a rev3 mr2 is your best option

[Peter Gidden]

Any use getting one if the price is right?

No.

[kev8611]

Let me make it clear, i was not posting about this because i was going to do it or thought it was a good idea.

I just wanted to confirm with someone and point out that doing so is a stupid idea that wont work.

Shame it doesnt work though or I'd be straight down the scrap yard.

Talking of scrap yards though, if whilst i am rummaging around the scrap yards, what turbo/turbo's do supras have?

Any use getting one if the price is right?

Depends what supra. One will have ct26 (same as yours) other has ct20/12 (i think)