[Mk2] [Turbo] where is the coolant entering the combustion chamber?

[mr2tinker]

Hello all, I have a problem with my re1 turbo and am posting here for some advice and guidance.

Symptoms;
1. using water with no external evidence (except some splashing on exhaust but cant trace source)
2. Missing, not so bad now I have replaced plugs but still doing so under acceleration
3.Possibly more steam than usual from exhaust
4. 103 hc on sniffer test above filler neck
5. Possible bubbles rising in filler neck but could also be air trapped in system as it is being topped up every time I use

Possible to remedy;

place your thoughts here lol

Remove thermostat to see if any difference in coolant loss
Possible use a product called steel seal (ebay)
Remove head, check for gasket failure, crack tests



notes. head gasket changed 1000 miles ago to a metal one (stretch ebay bolts used). face decked and head pressure checked and ground.

boost uped to 1bar

[djpkins]

Out of all your options listed i would do the thermostat first obv...I recently had to change mine cos it came apart in there, so i have read all the associated scare stories and localised boiling is one of them. If the watertemp sensor is reading correctly but the coolant isn't warming up and circulating as it should...this can cause running probs due to wrong airfuel mix and timing can be affected.
No idea what the hc number means, is it high? if so...

[mr2tinker]

but... if my thermostat was not working the engine would overheat?
it is not overheating but the needle does seem a tiny bit higher

[alanmr2turbo]

The water leak could be from right under the throttle body as water is fed into the throttle body.

you could can remove the thermostat but doubt its that

As for the steel seal = big no no

But with a reading of 103hc i'm going with the head gasket.

[mr2tinker]

if it is hg going, why? maybe thermo is knackered! she does seem to heat up quicker than usual! it appears i should not run without thermo because of bypass system and kettling issues!

can any one point me in the direction for a decent one at a reasonable price pls?

edit... found one on camskill, does anyone rate these?

[djpkins]

your thermostat could break and be shut all the time or open all the time...overheating or not getting up to operating temp....Camskill parts seem to be ok, I put a Camskill thermo in my 2...
slacken off the oil dipstick fixing nut, but don't remove completely( it can soo easily come out and is a fiddler on the roof to get back in), remove oil filter, clamp big pipe going into the therm housing, remove and replace making sure the toggle on the thermostat is lined up with the knotch on the housing....for the sake of 30mins work and a few quid, you would be slack not to do this first...if it is the hg, you've created no extra work and will have the peace of mind that the therm is new

[mr2tinker]

well it appears that the thermostat is stuck shut!

that explains some stuff, do we think the sniffer test was a red herring? 103 does seem high, do we think my engine is damaged now. The block never really overheated the needle never went over half way???

[djpkins]

I suppose all is well now then old fruit...keep an eye on water/oil level and clarity...if you've not done it for a while, coolant change.

[mr2tinker]

no, still bu88ered

where is my axe

[djpkins]

use my chainsaw mate...more satisfaction with added spark bonus...

Whats up then pumpkin...hydrocarbons in the system...why not try a total coolant change, I'm not a chemist and I've no idea how long said HC's are present in coolant before they dissipate/evapourate??? but is it poss that they're residual not fresh? I would doeffo flush the fkr with a flush, then a hose to physically remove any poss sludge or build ups.
The therm was shut, not allowing coolant to flow, the engine must've been getting really hot, how do you know that the engine bay temps were ok?
If you've replaced the thermostat, you should be able to feel the coolant pipes heating up on both sides...in and out...when it's set to hot on the heater.

[SonicSW20]

cheap way to check to see if there is any water in your cylinders:

use cotton sticks and a straw, attach cotton stick to the straw and make sure it is attached properly - you dont want to lose it in the cylinder! remove the plugs and swab the inside - i did this with my old corsa to see where my coolant was going.

[mr2tinker]

got the old bike pump and gauge out!

the pressure dropped quickly with no dripping from anywhere. when i started it cylinder4 missed and the white smoke from exhaust!!!

head off time, hope it is not the block!

non interference engine my ar$e!!!!

[Dale_V]

non interference engine my ar$e!!!!

huh? i dont get what you mean in the context of this thread?

non interference basically means if the cambelt snaps, the valves wont hit the pistons

[djpkins]

[mr2tinker]

belt did snap on a hill climb and i now have gasket/ cracked block or head!

[Dale_V]

oooh i must have missed that topic

[SonicSW20]

belt did snap on a hill climb and i now have gasket/ cracked block or head!

quite possibly two unrelated faults?

[mr2tinker]

well the head is off now.

i am gonna try to put some pix up in a bit but am struggling. how many posts do i need to do so pls?

[mr2tinker]

need

[mr2tinker]

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