I have a set of Rainbow SLX265 Deluxes which I am very happy with
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- these would set you back
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~£150, which Im currently running off of a Rainbow iPaul 300.4 and an Alpine X100, which is pretty much what you are thinking of getting, albeit a couple generations older.
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The only thing that annoys me about the Alpine unit is the limited audio processing available without pending another
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£100 or so on an Imprint module
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- other manufacturers at least give a 5+ Band GEQ on their mid range stuff let alone premium stuff
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- all I have is bass and treble attenation
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/ boost, and I can choose a preselected frequency and bandwidth for both.
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The sound quality is still good though, and the Alpine iPod integration is the best around in my opinion, I just wish I didnt have to buy an imprint module to take more control over the sound!
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I'll have a look and see whats around in your budget
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- my setup is over
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(I got a good deal on the amp at
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£180), but for that kind of monies you will have plenty of options.
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Oh, and budget
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~£20-£40 for some sound deadening for the soors
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- you can get a Silent Coat pack from ebay for a decent enough price:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silent-Coat-M ... 51987997d3
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silent-Coat-V ... 5199c5c7e8
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Much cheaper than Dynamat and just as good.
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The Extra door kit should be enough, but you get more for your money with the 20 sheet pack, and you can always deaden elsewhere with the surplus if you wanted to.
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Deadening is a really good thing to do
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- it will supress vibrations in the door, reducing rattles
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(which will be more prominent when running more power through the speakers
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- when they play
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~the resonant frequency of the door, the whole thing will want to rattle).
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Also, deadening will help improve bass response from the speakers.
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Combine that with a nice solid mount
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- not a plastic adapter, you can make your own MDF speaker mounting ring for less than they cost anyway, and you will have a great base for your speakers.
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With wiring, you'll need a phono
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(RCA) cable, some power cabling and some speaker cabling.
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If you put the amp in the frunk, you only need a metre or so of power wire, just make sure your ground wire is shorter than your live wire.
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8 Gauge will probably be sufficient, but because there is minimal price difference and no installation issues I would just use 4AWG for your power wiring
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- it will allow you to upgrade in the future if you wanted to without buying more wiring.
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I would also run new speaker cable instead of using the stock cabling
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- something like 12AWG will be more than enough.
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