MR2 Turbo keeps cutting out

[malcster]

Hi Guys,

When driving along in town, my Rev 2 MR2 Turbo just cuts out, all the lights come on in the dash, and it won't start again.

It been doing this for a while now, and so far I have changed:

- Spark Plugs
- Earth under the Inlet manifold checked and cleaned
- Earths under each inspection panel checked and cleaned
- HT Leads
- Distributor Cap (6 months ago)
- Rotor Arm (6 months ago)
- ECU Temp Sender
- Coil & Igniter
- Circuit Open Relay
- EFI Relay
- Fuel Pump Relay
- Main Ignition Relay
- Cleaned oil & muck away from the electrical plug under the distributor

I am getting so fed up with the stress of having to push the car to the side of the road myself again and again.
After leaving it for 10mins / half an hour it sometimes fires back into life.

Has anyone any ideas as to what else to check/test?

Also, this might be nothing, but for some reason when I take off the cap and arm when it dies, and give it a clean out, it sometimes stutters a bit, but then usually just dies again.

[foxy-stoat]

Have you done an ecu fault code check?

What boost level are you running?

[malcster]

Have you done an ecu fault code check?

What boost level are you running?

Running 1 bar of boost with a GReddy intercooler, and cold grade plugs.
ECU stores no fault codes for this, unfortunately.

It's driving me up the wall.
I've had to abandon it in a carpark this afternoon!

[foxy-stoat]

Maybe bring the boost down to stock levels for a while.

Could be an ecu or fuel pump issue or blocked fuel filter, although it would need of pretty blocked to cause your woes.

I assume when you say it doesnt start, it turns over ok and you get a spark.

[Slarty]

Loose battery connections? Easy enough to check.

[malcster]

Maybe bring the boost down to stock levels for a while.

Could be an ecu or fuel pump issue or blocked fuel filter, although it would need of pretty blocked to cause your woes.

Nah, fuel pump runs fine when I bridge the terminals in the diaognostics port, and it still won't start. i repalced the Circuit Open Relay, and the Fuel pump relay for good measure - but still the same problem

I assume when you say it doesnt start, it turns over ok and you get a spark.

Yep, turns over, and is sparking - orange spark though - not blue.

How long do you get out of a dizzy cap & rotor arm?
6 months / 8k miles I think I've done on this set.

[malcster]

Loose battery connections? Easy enough to check.

Yep - checked this out, enging is turning over though - no issue with the battery.

[foxy-stoat]

Orange spark?

Maybe worth checking the dizzy cap and rotor arm again and if you have that rubber ring thing to stop condensation.

Failing that, limp it to the nearest mr2 specialist !

[malcster]

Orange spark?

Maybe worth checking the dizzy cap and rotor arm again and if you have that rubber ring thing to stop condensation.

Failing that, limp it to the nearest mr2 specialist !

Yeah, there was a drip of oil in the dizzy cap, I might spray in some WD40 into the dizzy cap and on the arm, see if that helps any.
Rubber ring thingy is in place though.

Does anyone know how I can test a coil & ignitor to see if they are ok?
These are secondhand parts, so i guess it's worth testing them.

[mrgamma250]

i had a problem like this in my ageing rev1 turbo i checked everything you have .my problem turned out to be the AFM ,the black plasic top had been taken off before and not resealed with silcone sealent when refitted, it just got wet and corroded up the electrical contacts inside.funny thing was it would run ok for days at a time then just start to cut out nearly every time i used the thing then be fine again. id also double check your ignitor and coil by swapping it over with a known good one if poss

[JeffD]

Does the car always start OK from cold and only cuts out when warm or is it sometimes difficult to start? (what I'm getting at is do you think its heat related)

What make is the cap? It may have a hairline fracture in that only becomes apparant when everything is warmer.

Was the coil you replaced a new one/2nd hand etc?

Next time it happens why don't you do a spark test etc at side of road so you can check whether your still getting spark etc

Might also be worth going through the fault check list at beginning of toyota manual

[djpkins]

You can test all the ignition components , the procedures are in the BGB...if there is oil inside the dizzy cap, there is a good chance the o-ring has gone and will need replacing...couple of quid from Mr T....when the oil is warm and thin enough...it's working its way up the dizzy shaft into the unit...do you have a dribble mark underneath the distributor?