[Mk2] [Turbo] Spluttering in the morning then clears up? Any ideas?

[gazrev1tubby]

Ive removed my charcoal canister Dave ?

[djpkins]

So have I...lol...I just don't know what it for really...i removed it cos it was always doing my hands in when I'm in the engine bay...and i was told that it's just some emmisions control thing for the Japanese lot...I'm gonna put up post.

[Bone]

I'll check tomorrow. No the charcoal canister is still in place.

[djpkins]

Just replaced my injector pack thing...there is a pic of what I mean in gazrev1tubbys wanted add for a coil/igniter...fk me what a difference, it used to tick over fine...or so i thought, now it's smooth as silk and banzai fast again.

[Bone]

Not bad, how much was that? I've done a compression test today and all 4 cylinders were at 100psi. No oil leak near the distributor either.

[gazrev1tubby]

100psi is very low mate, was the engine warm\hot or cold ?

[Bone]

Prob a little bit warm, It was sitting round for about 1 hour before testing.

[gazrev1tubby]

Did you remove the efi fuse and hold the throttle wide open when you tested ?
I had circa 180 psi on all cylinders on my old 1mm headgasket, and when I checked the other day - I had circa 152 psi on all cylinders with a 1.4mm gasket.

[Bone]

Did you remove the efi fuse and hold the throttle wide open when you tested ?
I had circa 180 psi on all cylinders on my old 1mm headgasket, and when I checked the other day - I had circa 152 psi on all cylinders with a 1.4mm gasket.

No it was shut and no i didn't pull any fuses. I just unplugged the king lead.

[gazrev1tubby]

Pulling the king lead will have the same effect.

You should normally do a comp test with a warm engine and w.o.t

[Bone]

I reckon it just flushed the bores with fuel that's why it was low. Why do you need the throttle open? There all equal so must be fine.

[djpkins]

...lol..you want to hope that they're all fine...if they were that low you wouldn't be able to keep up with the milkman...thats good news anyway mate.
There just arn't many more electrcal components on the check list

Fuel injector pack,
fuel pump relay,

do you still ave your aircon idle up valve connected, is the plumblimg nice and tight still.
Have you checked the blower for shaft play...tiny bit of oil would cause $hitty idle bit get burnt up under boost.

[Bone]

...lol..you want to hope that they're all fine...if they were that low you wouldn't be able to keep up with the milkman...thats good news anyway mate.
There just arn't many more electrcal components on the check list

Fuel injector pack,
fuel pump relay,

do you still ave your aircon idle up valve connected, is the plumblimg nice and tight still.
Have you checked the blower for shaft play...tiny bit of oil would cause $hitty idle bit get burnt up under boost.

Yeah I know mate. I've removed the air con but not the idle up valve. So it should be untouched. Where is it? I'll remove it and check around that area.

Turbo was fine last time I checked. I have got a bit of oil in my spark plug holes (3 of them) so I'm after a cam cover that I can paint then swap over. Do you know anyone with one for sale?

I might swap the injector pack to see if that helps.

The car idles fine now. It's just when driving when first cold.

Also what do I need to do to remove the charcoal canister? Cheers

Toby

[djpkins]

The aircon idle up valve is attached to the fuel injector pack and has 2 vac line connectors...thought this may be leaking vacum, and if you've no aircon may aswell take it off.
The charcoal canister is easy enough to remove physically and quite obvious to do but just make sure that all the pipes going to it are sealed of propperly, I think one of them goes to the tank and the other to the throttle body.

[Bone]

The aircon idle up valve is attached to the fuel injector pack and has 2 vac line connectors...thought this may be leaking vacum, and if you've no aircon may aswell take it off.
The charcoal canister is easy enough to remove physically and quite obvious to do but just make sure that all the pipes going to it are sealed of propperly, I think one of them goes to the tank and the other to the throttle body.

The charcoal canister has 2 lines to the inlet manifold and one from the tank. Surly the one from the tank needs to be vented. Can I just loop the inlet manifold ones together? I reckon I'll remove the idle up too.

[djpkins]

I'm going to re-fit my charcoal filter and relocate it to a suitably out of the way place...I have had it blocked off for ages and it seems one shouldn't

[Bone]

I've just removed mine. You need to connect the top and the bottom together then it will vent to atmos

[djpkins]

had a look at mine today...I have done as you say and joined the metal pipe bit to a long bit of hose and connected it to the vent that dissapears around the rear arch....out of curiosity, have you ever taken your throttle body off completely?

[djpkins]

this thread has gone on for so long I'm a bit lost now...stick up a list of replaced items old matey....you know I was testing a fuel injector pack and coil for gaz and my king lead was deffo a bit shonky, replaced it with an oem black 5mm and it ironed out a misfire at 2k to 3k...did it 3 times to make sure...my mate had a brand new set of magnecors and the king lead fkd up almost strait away, can't bend those things at all man.

[Bone]

Funny you should say that as I've just swapped my ngk king lead for my old standard one and the cars running a lot better. I'll have to see how it goes