newbie with a mr2 rev3 turbo powered lexus is 200

[Chris]

It's finding a block now that's any good. As said, any Rev block will do but the Rev 3 has it's benefits! There's a damaged engine for sale in the for sale section at £150 ono. Might be a gamble, but if it's got a good block....

If not, you will have to sleave your current block, fit new rings etc etc. That's when it gets expensive!

PM me a price...I might bite

[bobhatton]

I have got some good Rev 2 blocks here, may just need a hone and refit your pistons, but do not think the worst, it may just be a damaged piston in number 1 or nothing at all.
You will need a new head gasket and head studs, not bolts, thats going to be £250 or so and that may be all you will need to spend.

Bob

[Chris]

£250 How you work that out Bob???

[chri5]

I have got some good Rev 2 blocks here, may just need a hone and refit your pistons, but do not think the worst, it may just be a damaged piston in number 1 or nothing at all.
You will need a new head gasket and head studs, not bolts, thats going to be £250 or so and that may be all you will need to spend.

Bob

sorry to ask silly questions bob but I'm not a mechanic.
What do you mean it may need a hone???
What's the difference with studs an bolts

this seems to of gone off the head failure a bit. But do I still need that checking???
May as well as it's off I suppose.

I thought rev2 an rev3 were different???
Or is that just the head???

Could you send me a price plz???
Hopefully won't need to go this far but you never know

[bobhatton]

£250 How you work that out Bob???

You are right, its going to be more with the work on the head.
I was just thinking about a new head gasket and studs, the head is going to cost £100 + as well.

Bob

[bobhatton]

I have got some good Rev 2 blocks here, may just need a hone and refit your pistons, but do not think the worst, it may just be a damaged piston in number 1 or nothing at all.
You will need a new head gasket and head studs, not bolts, thats going to be £250 or so and that may be all you will need to spend.

Bob

sorry to ask silly questions bob but I'm not a mechanic.
What do you mean it may need a hone???
What's the difference with studs an bolts

this seems to of gone off the head failure a bit. But do I still need that checking???
May as well as it's off I suppose.

I thought rev2 an rev3 were different???
Or is that just the head???

Could you send me a price plz???
Hopefully won't need to go this far but you never know

Wait till you have the pistons out of the block, then you should be able to tell what has gone wrong.

The work on the head still has to be done, but we are looking too far ahead to say what else , I would think your head is in a spin now thinking what you may have to do.

It is the head mainly on a Rev 3 that is different to the rev 1 and 2 and some small bits on the block.

One way or the other we will get you up and running again.

Bob

[chri5]

Cheers Bob.
Your right my head is spinning with several thoughts etc.
I will take the head to the engineers 2morro hopefully and get the pistons out Saturday.

Hopefully it won't be that bad.
But will definately know more by the weekend

[chri5]

Ok so I've started to tackle this today.
Couldn't get the head in cos they was closed.
But I started on the removal of pistons.
But I've got stuck.
I can't get the bottom end off.
But when I emptied the sump there was hardly any water in there and when I checked in the sump there is no metal pieces also there is no damage to the bores.
Does this mean I've got away with ring damage or am I jumping the gun???

[bobhatton]

There may still be damage to the piston and no marks to the bores.

You only have to remove the con rod and pistons not the whole bottom end.

Bob

[Smithmyster]

TBH, considering you found the head bolts were loose, I would throw it all back together to the correct torques and tolerances and see if it works Loose bolts could cause the head to lift and then water could get all sorts of places without any head gasket failure.

Sounds good!! If the Head Gasket is ok, that's the obvious answer i think (hopefully...). Water's clearly getting into the cylinders.

Does it take a few goes to start it up, or quiet a bit of Starter motor?

The Oil on the Plugs might be where the water and oil are mixing, the oil floats on the top. When the car's stationary the water might be slowly crossing into the 1 and 2 cylinder.

I go with putting it all back together and trying it again (for peace of mind if anything)

Hope its ok

[chri5]

its a bit late for that as its all in pieces lol
decided that i may as well go the whole hog and make sure everything is all good

hopefully by the weekend i will have a few more answers

[chri5]

well after sitting around for nearly a month this looks to be now fixed
it has 1 or 2 issues tho that i still seem to be struggling with.

i believe i have air in the system which i am trying to cure.
when i start the car from cold there is a gurggling type noise as if something is filling with water.

i lifted the bonnet today tho and started it and this noise cant be heard in the engine bay its just in the car itself???
also i dont know if its right or not but my heater system is hot literally within about 2minutes. which is good for in winter lol but somehow doesnt seem right.
can anybody offer any advice on this matter???

[toxo]

Does the IS200 have a specific point for bleeding the heater matrix? The MR2 does but I don't remember one on the IS200.

I have to say we had problems with the matrix when Phil owned the car, I got a LOT of air out of it. That was by running the car with the rear most rad cap off and massaging the pipes that go to and from the matrix, with it set on full heat but without the fans running. It doesn't make sense that you would have a heater matrix full of air or your heaters wouldn't work but you could have an airlock in there.

[chri5]

i dont know tbh mate i will try find that out.
it certainly doesnt seem to be losing or using water.
but the gurggling noise is making me paranoid as thats the noise it made running upto the HG going.

i dont understand it either tbh john
and like i say run the car for 2 mins and its red hot air coming out???
you dont even need to drive it to get this heat.

[toxo]

I was gonna say you could bring it back up here for me to look at but it's a right trek isn't it.

Take a look at the workshop manuals on http://bahamutcars.free.fr/ (can be iffy on Internet Explorer but works ok in Firefox) at the cooling system section to see if there are any pointers but remember your car is a one off, and it's got 2 radiator caps etc... the one nearest the passenger compartment is the highest point of the cooling system so that's the one you should be using.

What sort of water temps are you seeing on the PFC commander? It should get to about 85 degrees relatively rapidly and then settle between 80 and 90 once the thermostat opens.

[chri5]

your right its very iffy getting on that site

i'll try find a manual for it on outlawjap.
as for temp it seems to get to around 77-80degrees very quickly but then stabalize at around that.
so i think the radiator system must be ok???
its just the gurgling inside the car that concerns me as like i said this is what i heard before the head went.
but the amount of gurgling has dropped considerably.
and it also seems to take a little bit longer to get red hot heat into the car.

its also having an issue starting atm.
when you start the car you have to give a few mild blips of the gas before it can hold its own. and the revs are right down for some reason??? (between500-600rpm)

[phoenixtat]

Skimmed head = different compression ratio. So a RR session may be worth while to see what's going on.