Having problems bleeding the car

[jdbecks]

Hey all,

I seem to be having a problem trying to bleed the coolant, Ive attached the hoses to the bleed points, suspended them in the air, filled up with coolant...put the cap to the first notch, ran the system. Topped up with coolant and put the cap all the way around and ran the engine again..closed of the bleed points.

When I drive and the car is warming up, when I first put the heating on full the temp gauge drops down and then slowly picks back up. The car deos not over heat and its only when the car is warming up. all the coolant parts are new.

Its only happened since I took the TB to clean up the ISC valve.

[blue2]

Hi, if you dont put the heater to warm and leave it on cold or off altogether, will the car overheat?

[jdbecks]

nope the car does not over heat, once the car is at normal operating temperature the needle does not drop,

[notroubleclubber]

so how do you know its not bled properly if it doesnt over heat?

[jdbecks]

its never happened on my previous 3 MR2s..

[blue2]

If when you put the heaters to hot the temp drops a little then its normal. A big drop would suggest a blockage or an air lock. How much does the temp drop?

[jdbecks]

lets say the needle was just approaching normal operating temperature the needle drops just above 1/4 then rises again.

I hate bleeding these damn cars!

[ashley]

deleted

[blue2]

Yes they are a pain in the ass. Best thing to do is re-attach the service hoses and go through all that again till theyre level. Close the rad bleed valve but leave the rad cap off and run the engine for a few mins. Make sure before you do this that the coolant level is up to the brim of the filler neck, then keep an eye for bubbles. Turn off engine, top up again if necessary, let it cool down and check the level a few hours later, top up again if needed.
That should do it

[going4the1]

Hi jdbeck

The behaviour you describe is entirely normal. You do not have to do anything.

The symptoms of an air-lock in the heater pipes are:

(i) Gurgling/sloshing noise whilst driving with the heater set above cold. This would stop if the slider went all the way to 'fully cold'

(ii) Heater blowing cold air when the slider is set to hot/warm.

One or both of the above - otherwise you have bled the heater pipes correctly.

[weasilfreak]

i am having the same problem with my car - would the air lock cause the temperature gauge on the car to fluxtuate massively too or is that a seperate problem? never had a problem with the car before and had the air con regassed - would that cause a problem?

cheers

al

[whippet]

If it only drops once, this is probably just the thermostat opening, and cold water circulating through the system.