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ok.. My car is still not Horney.....

I found out the relays ARE clicking but still there is no sound...

Any thoughs?

forgot to mention.. I had EVERYTING REPLACED... then found out it was a cracked block... then needed new engine.

Then you have the same problem I had... cracked block.

Take the head off, and the shiney cylinder (steam cleaned one) is the culprit..

ummm... so what is it then?

There it goes.....

fixed it... 15 amper had carried out some fission work get it fusion fission.. fuse....

im tired....

oh.. dont worry I dont"!" and wont.. I was trying to put it back in !! dome you say.... right I will take a look.. I was sure there was some there

Hi all, Just pushed the cigarette lighter into its hole (and switched it on) and the radio died and all my gauges have dies... the wing mirroe adjusters have died too. Where is the fuse that controls the radio/cigarette lighter housed? What fuse is it? If not a fuse.. what can the problem possibly b...

Hi all,

The horn appears not to be working on the car...

I cant hear the relay clicking either..

How can i test the horn electrics have continuiety?

also... where does the horn wiring go to?

just a quick update. – have to be quick TV starts soon…. Since I had never used a multimeter before I decided to call Paul Woods as he seemed a decent chap and I had loads of pm’s insisting that I give him a call. Well, after some detective work, creating wires, looms, bypassing unichips etc he foun...

yeah.. bit late.. but its done anyways... its not the correct battery... (looks like a fiesta one really)... but will do for now until i get the car running

ok, I understand what to do.....

but I dont understand how to do it...

Im not electrically minded... I have a draper multimeter with all the switches etc etc, but dont know how to use it.. (no instructions)

Which setting do i put it on..? Do I need the ignition on? battery plugged in?

seems to be holding charge.....

but without a car and an automotive shop in sight, I had to distill my own water... although i think it may only have 80% distilled it though.

back to the wiring in the other posts...

have no idea what you are talking about.. but i presume you are trying to remove the engine through the bottom of the car. if so.. carry on it is the only way.

ok.. cool, I will do that ASAP then report back.. much better than ripping the unichip off... (hope it isnt that thats up the bucket)

dont forget the time.. 2.5 years.. lots of patience, and I had to buy another car to get to work... insure that car, tax the car, and insure and tax the MR2 as well... then every 6 months he would tell me its fixed.. I would travel up there, collect it, pay the money,.. break down.. go back there.. ...

Toyota?

or call the affilliates to see if they have something

stab in the dark... have you checked your injectors? have you checked they are all working fine. Like my fault if one were to be "on the way out" or blocked then this may be an issue? although mine were all fine.. but i do get a low idle until after 2 mins of running, then it picks up to 1...

agreed, after sales IS shocking... the car is still within its 1200 mile warrantly... AND IM THE ONE WHO HAS TO DIAGNOSE THE FAULT...??? Where is the logic there? umm, hang on ... If I had designed and built an extension to your house... and 5 days after completion it had started leaking, or the win...

i really dont know which way round it is, so you must be right. i have 12v on one of the wires... the coloured one with a stripe.. and now i have just realised that i may have checked continuety on the coloured wire with a stripe... in the morning i will check all the colours going along this cable ...