www.imoc.co.uk

It's not OEM but i've got one of these in mine: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Celica-GT4-Turbo-MR2-Turbo-Exedy-Clutch-236mm_W0QQitemZ290146345542QQihZ019QQcategoryZ10428QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem It's really cheap, feels like the stock clutch and bites really nicely. I've just taken it out...

He never mentioned the MBC and i didn't notice it when i bought the car (was running fine back then!). He had the TVSV disabled and had bled it back up to 13psi when it was sold. I emailed him about the MBC when i noticed it and he said: "It can go upto 18 psi but obviously puts a lot more stre...

well i would say the main point is to suspect and test for the worse (meaning bad engine compression) 1st thing and Straight away,when the 'so called leaking turbo seal' symptoms are found. ie excessive oil in boost pipes etc. That's exactly what i did after reading this thread and finding oil in m...

I think (although this is from memory) it should be a max of 158psi and a min of 128psi with a difference of no more than 15psi between any one piston.

They all look pretty similar, here's no 4:



Here's no 2 (covered in oil as i poured a bit in on the comp test).

I spent the last few days taking my engine out and stripping it down to find this: http://www.diycinema.co.uk/imghost/3sgte/pistons/1.jpg http://www.diycinema.co.uk/imghost/3sgte/pistons/2.jpg http://www.diycinema.co.uk/imghost/3sgte/pistons/3.jpg http://www.diycinema.co.uk/imghost/3sgte/pistons/4.j...

It sounds like you have air in the system. If it's been bled properly the level shouldn't change.

Yeah you would think it could make a difference as all it does is send crank case fumes with a bit of oil vapour back into the intake to reduce the emissions. Can't be much good for burning fuel!

It's good you got no oil from it, just gotta keep an eye on the turbo seals!

Just did the compression test, no 2. is 50 psi down, looks like i'm taking the engine out!

It's a bit of a pain doing it yourself, but it's worth it if you like doing that sort of thing. The worst bit is the drain plug on the engine block. It's a right pain to get off, i had to take off the throttle body support to get a socket on it which is awkward in itself. I'm pretty sure the turbo t...

That halfords oil is poo and fully synthetic oil is to thin for old engines . Each to there own ! It's still a 40W and it's less prone to breaking down at high temps being synthetic. Loads of people use it, it's made by the same people who make mobil 1 and i can't find any negative reviews. To top ...

I've been having similar probs. I simply blocked the port on the intake where the PCV hose connects and stuck the end of the hose in a bottle. This filled up after a short drive so i know i've got a major problem with the engine. So much for the rev 3 catch can! It now looks like most if not all of ...

I've done some more testing at it looks even worse! I read the thread about ringlands vs turbo oil seals, even though my rev threes got a catch can i thought i should test it anyway. Cleaned up the intake pipes, fitted catch can. 10 minutes of hard driving later there's no oil in the intake and the ...

Over the weekend i took off all the intake piping / rocker cover so i could check the valve gaps. Afterwards i put it all back together and changed the oil to halfords 5w40 fully synthetic and put a new filter on. I also replaced the dipstick guide as it had a crack in it causing a lot of smoke and ...

BenF wrote:
Also - something more recent, insurers have started saying they specifically exclude the Nurburging if you ring or write to them - but most policy documents actually don't have this exclusion.

If you're with elephant they specifically exclude it on the policy

id say clean it up, fit a oil catch can, do up the turbo pipes tightly, and see what returns... I second that, if the catch can fills up then do a leak down test. If doesn't fill up and oil keeps coming back to the pipes in significant amounts then it's probably time for a turbo rebuild. Also when ...

Fitting can be a right nightmare, took me about 10 hours so that's not a bad price. Usually for a bog standard toad your looking at around £200 fitted when the alarm only costs £90 off ebay.

It's nice to fit it yourself though because you know it's been done properly!

Hi, I have recently taken off the throttle body to change the Idle Control Valve, and in the process I removed the first metal part of the intake to the throttle body, the part where there are two bolts that attach the item to the top of the engine? It has a small gasket betwen it and the cam cover...

£25 sounds a bit steep for a bit of plastic. I got mine from the scrappy for £5 with a load of other bits.

I think the idle is 850rpm when its warm, it's written on the underside of the engine lid. You could then measure the engine rpm at a certain speed in someone elses mr2 or with gps in yours, jack the back end up, rev the car up to the same rpm (obviously in the same gear) and stick the speedo needle...